[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by steve392

how does the remote solenoid work if you have a GM or Mopar starter with integral solenoid?

It might be easier to think of the remote, trunk-mounted Ford solenoid as a relay.

The starter solenoid's "S" terminal is jumped w/a heavy copper connector to the terminal for the battery "+" power cable- NOW coming from the rear-mounted Ford relay- to the starter.

When the relay energizes the cable forward to the starter, the starter then engages.



I do not know who to credit the diagram to, my apologies.

[Rrumbler]

Interesting diagram and idea; I never thought of that. I hope there is another that shows the relationship and connection of the alternator to the system - a different topic for another discussion, though.

On the aluminum-iron/steel subject: there will always be an electrolytic reaction anytime dissimilar metals are fastened to one another. It is protected against by use of an anti-corrosion material, most often a grease of some type. There are a couple of them available for automotive use; "Anti-Cor" is one that comes to mind, in fact that's what I use in auto wiring. I use it on ALL of my connections, not just the dissimilar ones, battery terminals included; and you don't have to use a big ol' glop of it, either, just a light coating on a surface that has just been cleaned to shiny metal is all that is necessary - a little goes a long way.

In regards to the comments on the power company techniques, they use connectors that usually have a grease inside of them where the conductors will be connected at service entrances; if the connector does not have grease in it, then a grease is normally applied before the connection is completed. In power plants, switchyards, transmission and distribution lines, and all of our high voltage work, we always brushed the surfaces to be connected with a stainless steel wire brush and immediately applied a coat of special grease to the surfaces, and we tested the resistance af the connection after it was torqued to spec if we could; on connections that were made up hot, we couldn't do it. We also monitored connections on a regular basis with a thermal imaging device to check for high resistance that might develop.

[ogre]

check out http://www.madelectrical.com there is a lot of good electric tech info on his site. i don't think he is actively selling anymore but the website is a good read.

he does one up on cobalts drawing in that he by-passes the solinoid on the gm starter by hooking to the main lug on the starter (not the solinoid). this keeps it to one solinoid for trouble shooting. cobalts dwg eliminates a 20 ft non-fused big wire and potential fire hazard. you cannot fuse a starter wire as it uses all the juice a battery has.

then you run a 10ga wire from the remote solinoid to your panel with a fusible link, this would be your short protection. read the whole site, he is big into relays for any high draw electrical component. with a long run, it might be wise to run a #8 wire to your panel. this wire would also be your generator feed back to the battery.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by ogre

he does one up on cobalts drawing in that he by-passes the solinoid on the gm starter by hooking to the main lug on the starter (not the solinoid).

Unless I'm missing something, his instructions look much the same here:



as the diagram above in my previous post. The lug that connects the cable terminal to the solenoid's "S" terminal can also be seen in the contents of the kit.

W/o the starter's solenoid being involved, you'd get the starter motor to spin, but w/o the solenoid kicking the bendix to allow the starter gear to engage the ring gear on the flex/flywheel.

[steve392]

Cobalt,
Thanks for the explanation and diagrams. That clears things up. I've been on the MADD Electrical website before, so I'll stop back there again.

Steve

[drchip]

Originally Posted by ogre

check out http://www.madelectrical.com there is a lot of good electric tech info on his site. i don't think he is actively selling anymore but the website is a good read.

he does one up on cobalts drawing in that he by-passes the solinoid on the gm starter by hooking to the main lug on the starter (not the solinoid). this keeps it to one solinoid for trouble shooting. cobalts dwg eliminates a 20 ft non-fused big wire and potential fire hazard. you cannot fuse a starter wire as it uses all the juice a battery has.

then you run a 10ga wire from the remote solinoid to your panel with a fusible link, this would be your short protection. read the whole site, he is big into relays for any high draw electrical component. with a long run, it might be wise to run a #8 wire to your panel. this wire would also be your generator feed back to the battery.

FYI - Orderd from MAD last week - He is still at it, but VERY hard to contact on phone and no e-mail

[39 OLDROD]

Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS

''All'' the cars I built for myself and for other people, I aways put the battery in the trunk..Run a hot to a disconnect switch and then to the starter, And a ground from the battery to the frame, and a ground from the motor to the frame. and never had one problem. not once.. I weld a bolt to the frame to bolt to, I never just use a bolt..

I to have used this method and it has worked fine for me. I use two power blocks some where in the car. One for Constance power (straight from + side of battery)and one for switch power.(fuse block power) I use self taping screws in some cases for ground wires but blocks when room allows. As most say not to Minny grounds on a glass car UNLESS it happens to be a hot wire. good luck with your build and yes the wire party WILL get old before you get done. Oh almost forgot grown the motor to the frame w/batt. strap or it will not start worth a darn.

OLDROD

[ogre]

Originally Posted by drchip

FYI - Orderd from MAD last week - He is still at it, but VERY hard to contact on phone and no e-mail

tried to contact him yrs ago to no avail. many times i've wanted to order from him. nice to know he's still in business.

cobalt: my bad, you are correct.