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beyond frustration

15K views 117 replies 16 participants last post by  deadbodyman 
#1 ·
I am in the process of trying to respray a car. I am using ss acrylic urethane (restoration shop) with my gun (Iwata lph 400) 1.4 tip and orange cap, The manufacturers recomendation is up to 1 quart per gallon for reducer, At that ratio i was getting a whole bunch of orange peel. The paint was coming out of the gun way to thick. Thinking maybe it was just trying shoot the single stage acrylic urethan with that gun was just not the ticket. I brole out the old devilbiss siphon gun and had the same problem tii i added a bit more reducer. What is the best way to get the viscosity correct when the manufacturers recomend isnt working? I was amazed how much more material the devilbiss uses. It will be nice to get the iwata figured out
 
#85 ·
Your right and after the fact it's a guessing game as to what it was and not knowing what happened makes it almost impossible to rectify...That's why, often all we can do is minimize. I'm glad that things worked out better today, just had that feeling that they would. On a brighter note, I've very rarely had two in a row that gave me trouble like this...the next one is going to turn out great...and think of all the experience you gained.

Best to you My Friend.

Ray
 
#88 ·
I'm in all probability as happy to hear about your success as you are to achieve it. Congratulations and let me know how the final inspection goes.

Here is a story that I'm sure many have heard before because I know I've told it often. Years ago I was assigned the task of interviewing people for a painter's position that recently came open. One candidate walked into the interview and started telling me how good a painter he was and proceeded to tell me how he had never gotten a run in paint...I told him that he then hadn't painted enough...shortest interview I ever was a part of...LOL.

Ray
 
#89 ·
I am quite happy with it. I have 2 small runs to deal with and 1 orange peel issue on the door about 2 in. wide and 8 in long and ever present dust nibs. The pleasures of shooting white. I still have the rear quarters to do but I know what I need to do. I think that I will start sanding with 1000 on the runs and orange peel spot on the door and 1500 elsewhere. If I end up with any pinholes in those contaminate areas I will break out the striping brush and touch the holes with a drop of catalyzed paint. Somebody else mentioned this somewhere in this thread. I believe in the future I will keep the car under visqueen from bare metal through paint. I have no idea what caused this. I am the only one that works down there. This was not quite the spray and drive paintjob I was hoping for, Im not quite there yet. Practice makes perfect or at least acceptable
 
#90 ·
The thing with painting is, no matter how good you are, no matter how much experience you have, there are so many variables that this type of thing can happen to anyone, even the seasoned pro. As a paint Rep I ran into all types of problems on a daily basis, painters just starting out and those that had been in the trade for a long time, they all had problems.

Someone once told me that painting is a lot like Golf, there's so much to remember. In Golf, if you don't keep your head down, follow through, chose the right club, concentrate and many more things, just one of those little things not part of the swing and the shot is missed. Just as in painting, watching what's happening, consistent overlap, concentration, the right equipment and as in golf even the weather and conditions can effect the outcome.

I'm so glad it's working out for you, and with the experience you've gotten by minimizing the possibility of problems, your also going to minimize the possibility of future situations like this.

I don't know if I mentioned this in this thread or not but, in all my years of painting, I've had 2 paint jobs that I looked at after they where done and was able to say that polishing wouldn't help this paint job at all. I didn't polish all the rest but, out of thousands of cars, only 2 that I could critique and where blemish free. So there is always room for improvement, just like golf, you never master the game.

Ray
 
#93 ·
Sprayed the rear quarters today and they came out great. I did however still have a couple small with the same problem. I sanded it with 320 then 400, wiped it down with blue towels (no kichen paper towels again) scuffed with scotch brite the scrubbed twice with wax and grease remover. Those spots while annoying are just going to have to be. I would take my da with 220 if I were going to do it over and take it back down tho the sealer. I have no idea what happened. Thanx all for the help. Those who dont learn from history are bound to repeat it. I dont ever want a repeat on this (LOL) .......Steve
 
#95 ·
For some reason I had not followed this thread. I just read it in it's intirety. This is a really good example of why I spend my time on the Hotrodder's forum.

Ray, you are such a gentleman to hang in there with steve for 3 1/2 weeks while he gets this figured out. And Steve, It is good to see you not only appreciated the help but followed up on it with honest assesment of your results. I applaud both you guys.

There is a lack of big ego's on this forum I do not see on some of the other well known sites. Good job.

John
 
#96 ·
Thank You so much for your post and your kind words.

Steve, "Benchracer" deserves the credit for all of his perseverance and in the end being able to over come all the adversity. I appreciate that it has been an ordeal stretched out over a period of time and many people that experience problems like this would give up but Steve maintained his attitude soildered on.

For me, it was refreshing to, as you say, that in the end the problem was solved to the point that the results where acceptable.

When I was a paint rep, I don't believe I ever sold a thing...I tried to focus on a the needs of a shop that perhaps weren't being met by their current supplier, when those needs where met, it was their choice if they wanted to support the products that I was representing.

Thanks again John

Ray
 
#97 ·
While a frustrating experience, I feel that I learned alot. Thanx to Ray and everybody who posted. This same car about 6 mos ago I was priming with epoxy primer and went off to work for four days and when I got home I was going to sand. Kept gumming up the sandpaper. Realized at that point that I had added reducer instead of catalyst. What a freaking mess. Lesson learned. The bottlles appeared identical except 1 said reducer and 1 said hardener. Now i make sure the only thing on my mixing bench is what I am mixng, not all the stuff that i was to lazy to put away. I dont know what the heck got on this car but from now on from metal to paint I intend to cover the vehicles.....Live and learn.....Steve
 
#98 ·
Started colorsanding and buffing today. I went 1000 1500 2000 then used meguiars 85 on a wool pad and then meguiars 83 on a is foam pad. It is coming out extremely nice. I am running the buffer at a low speed to avoid burning the paint. If i look real close i can still see some very fine sanding scratches. i have no intention of going any farther but does it take sanding with three thousand to get rid of those or is it inadequate sanding with 2000? Also I am finding some of the fineer sand papers seem to load up relatively quick. Any tricks to avoid this?......Thanx, steve
 
#99 ·
Hi Steve, Running the polisher at a low speed is a good idea, especially on and around edges, body lines and near any openings ie. Headlight openings etc. Generally 2,000 grit paper should be fine enough, I finish my wet sanding with 2,500 or even 3,000 grit tri zac....not so much for getting rid of sand scratches but for speed and ease of polishing. I haven't Meguiar's for years and haven't used the 85 and 83 products. I use 3M's perfect it system of polishes and foam pads so it's a little difficult for me to comment on how well the Meguiar's products work.

You mentioned that you are running the polisher at a low speed...which is good, you may want to try ramping up the speed a touch...as much as you don't want to burn though, with a higher speed you will generate a little more heat and things can melt in for you easier....I'm not talking about running the polisher at full throttle, if your polisher's speed settings are from 1 to 10 and your running it at say 2...try carefully running it at 3 or 4 on large surfaces without edges openings and body lines...it should save you time and get rid of those sand scratches. Your still not going wild with polisher speed, just take care, be cautious and keep the polisher moving. Another trick is to keep the foam pad damp, damp not wet, and clean, (one reason I don't like wool pads is they are hard to keep clean and do generate more heat than I like)

The only thing I can tell you about fine paper plugging up quickly is that it is fine paper, and they will plug, single stage always seems to plug more than clear coat, keep the paper real wet and you'll get more life out of it.

Ray
 
#101 ·
Yes Steve, as I mentioned, that is one of the major reasons I'm not a fan of wool pads...they work, but they are more difficult to keep clean. If the compound dries up in the wool the compound can scratch the very surface that your trying to polish.

I find foam pads are easier to keep clean...I keep them moist and that way the polish doesn't dry up in the pad and scratch the surface.

Ray
 
#102 ·
Well after figuring out that I didnt need to use the whole gallon on the door and turn my pad into a lemon meringue pie thing went better. I did go up on the polisher speed. If I look real cose there are still some very fine sanding scratches but I am a bit nervous to go any further with the cutting compound as I dont want to cut through the paint. The learning curvr has certainly been cahllenging on this whole job.......Steve
 
#105 ·
Hey Mike...I use only foam pads and a couple of drops of water on the foam keeps them from drying out and it helps keep the polish from drying out as well. That's why I use foam, wool, totally different story.

Swirl remover....I hand polish with a micro fiber towel...and a small area, it drying up is a PITA.

Ray
 
#106 ·
I'm finishing up a super straight black job ,I'm getting a little nervous with this one as the time for buffing draws closer.I used to be pretty good but I no longer concider myself an expert its been too long since I had to buff at this level...
I may have to start a thread to reeducate myself...and get some new glasses.:(
 
#107 ·
I use foam pads. They come in different grades from heavy cutting down to finish. I switched from 3M to Meguiar's and really like the finish and product performance. One up side to Meguiar's is that AutoZone carries their compounds. That means alot on Sunday when my favorite paint shop is closed and I run out. I run my Makita buffer at about 3 or 4. Also, they make 3 inch foam pads that are great for getting into tight areas and reducing the risk of burning or catching your buffer on something. Just finished a black 69 Firebird. Came out great.
 
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