In a perfect world, the paint would be sanded down, the contaminated area would be built up again and the problem would go away.
One of the biggest nemesis that can be found in this trade is pin holes. If you remember in one of my previous posts, I asked if there was body filler under the paint that this imperfection occurred as "Pin holes" usually start out in Body Filler. They are hard to detect...unless you use guide coat on your filler...they are most commonly caused by stirring the hardner into the filler as opposed to folding the hardner into the filler.
Now that being said, the response that came back was that if there was filler in that area it would be very thin...most often pin holes in filler need a bit of depth in the filler to form as they are air bubbles in the filler with the top knocked of by sanding.
At this point we want the problem to go away...so if your noticing pin holes in your paint, be they solvent popping or whatever...the other problem you have is that the car is white, this makes problem areas less visible...you can use a putty over top of the affected area, squeeze the putty into the holes (I have used a razor blade or a thin plastic spreader)...block sand with guide coat to make sure that the holes stay filled and paint. Sikken's makes a putty specifically for pin holes called "Combie" but any putty will improve the finish.
I don't know if the pin holes in your paint where caused by pin holes in filler, or , solvent popping, or contamination...this remedy will improve your finish without stripping the area to find the original problem.