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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 07:06 AM
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Unless Single Stage has really changed over the years, I always mixed it 50% and then added the hardener and it would lay down smooth with no peel at all. Now mind you, that's been a few years back, probably more than I care to realize. I also always used a DeVilbiss siphon type of gun, and 60 lbs pressure. I actually don't think I ever had any peel with any of the single stage paints I shot. Also the last coat, I would thin it a tad more if it was a metallic and give it a final spray to eliminate any possible tiger striping.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin45 View Post
Unless Single Stage has really changed over the years, I always mixed it 50% and then added the hardener and it would lay down smooth with no peel at all. Now mind you, that's been a few years back, probably more than I care to realize. I also always used a DeVilbiss siphon type of gun, and 60 lbs pressure. I actually don't think I ever had any peel with any of the single stage paints I shot. Also the last coat, I would thin it a tad more if it was a metallic and give it a final spray to eliminate any possible tiger striping.
Yep you are right, that was YEARS, we are talking decades ago. You best not try that today unless it says it on the tech sheet. Loading up the paint with reducer is a sure way to have some killer die back!

Brian
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:38 AM
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I picked up a viscosity cup yesterday. I can not find on the product anywhere it gives the seconds. The gun howver says 20 sec. on some of the gun info. With the paint with no reduction or hardener the paint is 35 sec. Does 20 sound like a reasonable starting point? I have a little extra material so I am going to figure this out on a couple os old doors I have around. I have the reg at the compressor set at 100 and the air hose i use is the standard shop hose that looks to be about 1/2 od. the regualtor at the gun is a good rti reg. I bought at the same time I bought the gun. Ill get it figured out. The reducer I am using is a medium reducer and the temperature about 70........Steve
Also with that gun is 6 in. a good distance for shooting from?

Last edited by benchracer1; 05-25-2013 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:08 AM
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I am sorry Steve, I used a viscosity cup every single day 35 years ago shooting lacquer. I have not used one nor owned one in 25 years. With todays Urethanes you mix them as the tech sheet says, and that is IT, end of discussion for me. 6 inches is too close for most applications, but that distance is really all about the appearance of the product as it goes on and no one can say a hard and fast distance, it changes around the car for that matter.

Brian
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:41 PM
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Check to see if theres a screen in the cup,if there is toss it and try again...but it sure sounds like the paint is to thick to me...
6-8 inches for gun distance is perfect for me with a 50% overlap but I move very fast, everybody has to find there own sweet spot.
Has your paint been opened and sat for a while??? how about the hardner has that ever been opened?
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:26 PM
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paint and hardener brand new with no screen. I came up with the 35 number with unreduced uncatalyzed paint as just a starting point. I have a bit of of extra paint and a few body panels to dial it in with. I am going to try to reduce it to 20 sec and see how it works. I just dont quite understand why 4 1 1 still created such orange peel. The learning curve is frustrating but ill get her figured out......Steve
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:38 AM
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Who cares, mix the fresh paint and fresh hardener and spray spray it. Let it flash between coats. It is better to have orange peel than runs. Sand the orange peel off, This is in the clear coat. I use 1500 then 2500 wet sanding, then I use the 3M stuff to buff, polish the paint.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:47 PM
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finally got the orange peel sanded out. Sux to make that much work for yourself. I did have a couple of edges and 1 high spot of metal that I did sand through. Very small. I have a few small parts to spray and I am not sure if I would be better to spray some color on the sand throughs when I do the small parts, let em set overnight then put the final 2 coats on or spray some sealer on the spots as directed. What say you guys? I really need this one behind me
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2013, 06:21 AM
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If you have bare metal spots it's always a good idea to use some type of rust deterrent product like an Epoxy primer or even an aerosol etch before you apply color...just for that added protection and insurance, no matter how small the burn through.

The smaller parts will also give you a good indication of your gun set up to eliminate the orange peel. If your mixing your paint 4:1:1 with the proper temperature dependent reducer/hardner, your gun is set up properly as to pattern and air pressure and your painting at the proper distance, the orange peel problem should be eliminated.
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:01 AM
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I guess Ill be sprayin a small amount of sealer on these smsll spots. A bit more work but at this point ohwell. I did talk to a tech rep at iwata and he really suggested using the silver cap for single stage. It jogged my memory to remember i got the erange cap back when I was doing some metalic bike tanf
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:37 AM
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That paint last I knew was the Valspar 800 series and a high solids paint but easy to spray.

With the LPH gun you always use the silver with any clear coat or Clear and the purple for base, not sure where the orange fit in as I bought one when they first came out and i could not make it work for anything, so gave it to a customer.

Assuming its a 1.4 tip here are the adjustments and it should lay like glass:

Air regulator at the wall must be min 120Lbs for 25 ft hose, I have mine around the 150-165 lb area and just switching systems will cause me to readjust gun spraying the same HS.

Fan adjustment, wide open and turn in about 5-10%, so gun does not blow out center.
Fluid start at 2.5 turns out and you may need to go to 2.75 out.
If a 1.3 tip go 3 turns out.
Air pressure at the gun, set your regulator at the gun WITH trigger pulled at about 22lbs to start and you could end up as high as 32 depending on the piping of your system.
The air adjustment on the gun must be wide open when you are using a regulator at the gun.
ALSO this gun is made to spray 5-6" away from panel, 8" and all you are going to get is dry over spray and peel.
Make sure the internal strainer in gun is NOT there, give it to someone who you don't like or throw away.

With this adjustment, lay one wet coat, let flash and do your second and you should be done.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 07:12 AM
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It is indeed a 1.4 tip. Thanx very much for the settings. I am going to spray a couple test panels (old doors). I really dont want to go through this aagain.....Steve

I guess the internal strainer is the little screen between the cup and gun?
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:27 AM
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Yes under the cup.

Spray a test panel even if its just the back of a reducer can to get adjustments.
If still a problem call me with gun in hand, it won't take five minutes to fine tune.

If you txt me 30 minutes before you are about to paint I will watch for call and stop answering the phone, so you don't get voice mail.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 07:34 AM
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hopefully by friday Ill be back in town and painting. I greatly appreciate your offer and will take you up on it. I used an old devilbiss siphon gun for years with no problems. I figured it was time to upgrade to hvlp and I am certain that once I am past the learning curve i will be just fine....Steve
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by benchracer1 View Post
hopefully by friday Ill be back in town and painting. I greatly appreciate your offer and will take you up on it. I used an old devilbiss siphon gun for years with no problems. I figured it was time to upgrade to hvlp and I am certain that once I am past the learning curve i will be just fine....Steve
Changing from HP to HVLP or RP and LV is one of the hardest things to do, a lot of little stupid changes too make the paint lay perfect that did not matter with the HP type guns. Nine out of ten times when a guy like you calls with the same problem, just upping the pressure at that wall corrects everything, where with the old guns, it did not matter one bit what that pressure was.

Once you get it down, you will never go back and you are going from a 25% to a 65-75 efficiency rating, so you will use less material.
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