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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 08:32 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Ray, good stuff here, you did a service helping Benchracer out like you did.

Brian

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:16 AM
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Thanks Brian...I enjoy helping, "Benchracer" has great attitude and that's more than 1/2 the battle.

For me, maybe it's more about giving back and remembering all the people that took the time when I started out.

Ray
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 01:26 PM
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Sprayed the rear quarters today and they came out great. I did however still have a couple small with the same problem. I sanded it with 320 then 400, wiped it down with blue towels (no kichen paper towels again) scuffed with scotch brite the scrubbed twice with wax and grease remover. Those spots while annoying are just going to have to be. I would take my da with 220 if I were going to do it over and take it back down tho the sealer. I have no idea what happened. Thanx all for the help. Those who dont learn from history are bound to repeat it. I dont ever want a repeat on this (LOL) .......Steve
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 01:46 PM
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Steve, your right...and if I can add to that. What you've learned here should give you some knowledge so that if this or something of a similar nature occurs, you will have ammunition to combat it.

Best of luck to you my friend...keep in touch.

Ray
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 03:22 PM
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For some reason I had not followed this thread. I just read it in it's intirety. This is a really good example of why I spend my time on the Hotrodder's forum.

Ray, you are such a gentleman to hang in there with steve for 3 1/2 weeks while he gets this figured out. And Steve, It is good to see you not only appreciated the help but followed up on it with honest assesment of your results. I applaud both you guys.

There is a lack of big ego's on this forum I do not see on some of the other well known sites. Good job.

John
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 08:57 PM
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Thank You so much for your post and your kind words.

Steve, "Benchracer" deserves the credit for all of his perseverance and in the end being able to over come all the adversity. I appreciate that it has been an ordeal stretched out over a period of time and many people that experience problems like this would give up but Steve maintained his attitude soildered on.

For me, it was refreshing to, as you say, that in the end the problem was solved to the point that the results where acceptable.

When I was a paint rep, I don't believe I ever sold a thing...I tried to focus on a the needs of a shop that perhaps weren't being met by their current supplier, when those needs where met, it was their choice if they wanted to support the products that I was representing.

Thanks again John

Ray
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:34 PM
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While a frustrating experience, I feel that I learned alot. Thanx to Ray and everybody who posted. This same car about 6 mos ago I was priming with epoxy primer and went off to work for four days and when I got home I was going to sand. Kept gumming up the sandpaper. Realized at that point that I had added reducer instead of catalyst. What a freaking mess. Lesson learned. The bottlles appeared identical except 1 said reducer and 1 said hardener. Now i make sure the only thing on my mixing bench is what I am mixng, not all the stuff that i was to lazy to put away. I dont know what the heck got on this car but from now on from metal to paint I intend to cover the vehicles.....Live and learn.....Steve
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2013, 10:06 PM
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Started colorsanding and buffing today. I went 1000 1500 2000 then used meguiars 85 on a wool pad and then meguiars 83 on a is foam pad. It is coming out extremely nice. I am running the buffer at a low speed to avoid burning the paint. If i look real close i can still see some very fine sanding scratches. i have no intention of going any farther but does it take sanding with three thousand to get rid of those or is it inadequate sanding with 2000? Also I am finding some of the fineer sand papers seem to load up relatively quick. Any tricks to avoid this?......Thanx, steve
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 04:08 AM
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Hi Steve, Running the polisher at a low speed is a good idea, especially on and around edges, body lines and near any openings ie. Headlight openings etc. Generally 2,000 grit paper should be fine enough, I finish my wet sanding with 2,500 or even 3,000 grit tri zac....not so much for getting rid of sand scratches but for speed and ease of polishing. I haven't Meguiar's for years and haven't used the 85 and 83 products. I use 3M's perfect it system of polishes and foam pads so it's a little difficult for me to comment on how well the Meguiar's products work.

You mentioned that you are running the polisher at a low speed...which is good, you may want to try ramping up the speed a touch...as much as you don't want to burn though, with a higher speed you will generate a little more heat and things can melt in for you easier....I'm not talking about running the polisher at full throttle, if your polisher's speed settings are from 1 to 10 and your running it at say 2...try carefully running it at 3 or 4 on large surfaces without edges openings and body lines...it should save you time and get rid of those sand scratches. Your still not going wild with polisher speed, just take care, be cautious and keep the polisher moving. Another trick is to keep the foam pad damp, damp not wet, and clean, (one reason I don't like wool pads is they are hard to keep clean and do generate more heat than I like)

The only thing I can tell you about fine paper plugging up quickly is that it is fine paper, and they will plug, single stage always seems to plug more than clear coat, keep the paper real wet and you'll get more life out of it.

Ray
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 08:59 AM
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After doing some reading it looks like I have been letting my wool pad load up and need to spur it
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 09:12 AM
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Yes Steve, as I mentioned, that is one of the major reasons I'm not a fan of wool pads...they work, but they are more difficult to keep clean. If the compound dries up in the wool the compound can scratch the very surface that your trying to polish.

I find foam pads are easier to keep clean...I keep them moist and that way the polish doesn't dry up in the pad and scratch the surface.

Ray
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:20 AM
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Well after figuring out that I didnt need to use the whole gallon on the door and turn my pad into a lemon meringue pie thing went better. I did go up on the polisher speed. If I look real cose there are still some very fine sanding scratches but I am a bit nervous to go any further with the cutting compound as I dont want to cut through the paint. The learning curvr has certainly been cahllenging on this whole job.......Steve
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:31 AM
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There is a lot to remember...I've been doing this for many years and I still have a learning curve...Glad to hear that things are looking good Steve.

Ray
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2013, 06:19 AM
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Hey Ray, How do you keep them moist? Buffing sucks and I'm always looking for something to make it easier...
My biggest problem is the swirl remover drying and smuging on the car what a PITA
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2013, 05:28 PM
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Hey Mike...I use only foam pads and a couple of drops of water on the foam keeps them from drying out and it helps keep the polish from drying out as well. That's why I use foam, wool, totally different story.

Swirl remover....I hand polish with a micro fiber towel...and a small area, it drying up is a PITA.

Ray
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