big blocks and horsepower vs compression ratios - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 05:50 PM
jokerZ71's Avatar
Wrench Turner
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Stanton,Tn.
Age: 52
Posts: 2,047
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 138
Thanked 345 Times in 308 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arless View Post
I think you are just upset with yourself for spending three or four times what I spent for a build. My proof is on the drag strip
Show us a time slip !!!

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 05:54 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 279 Times in 244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
Build the engine.Show copies of your reciepts & dyno results.Make @ least 10 1/4 mile passes & rack up 20,000 miles or so on the odometer & I will be your business partner.We'll make a killing selling these $1000 engines to young Hot Rodders near & far.Heck,I'll buy the 1st one just to get us started.LOL.If getting a real reliable 500 HP were that simple,I think it would have already been a sustained & lucrative business by now.It ain't happening.Not with the recipe you're offering.I think if you build this thing as you have said,you are gonna be very disappointed with the results. Seriousl think about what you are saying.You are talking about almost doubling the HP on an already used engine with not much more than a cam swap & a crappy rebuild.
Almost doubling HP? He's talking about 500 hp from an engine that was rated from 210hp-240hp, depending on which version you ordered. And from 340-385 ft lbs of torque.
No way that a cam change, with a little head work, and a carb/intake will gain you 260hp, even if you started with the top dog 240hp.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 05:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 74
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
As the old saying goes you can't teach an old dowg new tricks. Come on down to little river with your high compression bbc and see what happens when you line up next to my chevelle. I have been protested and protested cause none believers just like you say I'm cheating. Boy when they tear down my motor only to find it has room for a lot more and still be legal. You could hear a pin drop after they see they are wrong. It's all in the combination of parts that make hp. Don't ask about the bracket car parts used for my winning chevelle.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:03 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 279 Times in 244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arless View Post
I think you are just upset with yourself for spending three or four times what I spent for a build. My proof is on the drag strip
If you're referring to me, then you're math is still off. I spent less than $2,000 on my engine. $500 an 8,000 mile engine, $950 Edelbrock heads, rockers, pushrods, gear drive. $100 Weiand intake, $260 for both Holley carbs (almost new), $200 cam/lifters. Oops! That's $2100. Still not 3-4 times the $1,000 you say you can build one for.
And I bet I'm closer to 500hp than your build is. Where do you live? Let's go racing!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 74
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Almost doubling HP? He's talking about 500 hp from an engine that was rated from 210hp-240hp, depending on which version you ordered. And from 340-385 ft lbs of torque.
No way that a cam change, with a little head work, and a carb/intake will gain you 260hp, even if you started with the top dog 240hp.
You are only showing just how much you don't know about a bbc engine. And or have used a bad combonation of parts all along. ha ha!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:06 PM
jokerZ71's Avatar
Wrench Turner
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Stanton,Tn.
Age: 52
Posts: 2,047
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 138
Thanked 345 Times in 308 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Almost doubling HP? He's talking about 500 hp from an engine that was rated from 210hp-240hp, depending on which version you ordered. And from 340-385 ft lbs of torque.
No way that a cam change, with a little head work, and a carb/intake will gain you 260hp, even if you started with the top dog 240hp.
Really?? I wuz thinking 275 or so.I don't think that engine,built as he descibed will dyno @ 400 if it even survives the dyno pull.I also don't think any of the heads listed will support the RPMs he is supposedly making his #'s with.I'm no Engine Guru'but'I gotta call BS on this one without some sorta proof.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:09 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 8,086
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 322
Thanked 784 Times in 750 Posts
bracket engines dont get torn down,,,lol.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:09 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 279 Times in 244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arless View Post
As the old saying goes you can't teach an old dowg new tricks. Come on down to little river with your high compression bbc and see what happens when you line up next to my chevelle. I have been protested and protested cause none believers just like you say I'm cheating. Boy when they tear down my motor only to find it has room for a lot more and still be legal. You could hear a pin drop after they see they are wrong. It's all in the combination of parts that make hp. Don't ask about the bracket car parts used for my winning chevelle.
Protested? What would they protest you for? What class do you run your car?
I don't know of any track that allows protests for compression ratio?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:13 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 279 Times in 244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
Really?? I wuz thinking 275 or so.I don't think that engine,built as he descibed will dyno @ 400 if it even survives the dyno pull.I also don't think any of the heads listed will support the RPMs he is supposedly making his #'s with.I'm no Engine Guru'but'I gotta call BS on this one without some sorta proof.
I'm right there with you joker! I've had BBC's and had them dyno checked too. Also built many like my present engine that use pretty stock bottom ends, and held together well if I shifted under 5500 rpm's.
The .040 over 454 in my '63 Falcon is a mid 70's with 8.5 cr, and the small chamber edelbrock heads boost it to around 9.25 cr. I wish it was 500hp, and I think I might be getting over 400hp easily, but doubt it's much more than 450hp.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 74
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
If you're referring to me, then you're math is still off. I spent less than $2,000 on my engine. $500 an 8,000 mile engine, $950 Edelbrock heads, rockers, pushrods, gear drive. $100 Weiand intake, $260 for both Holley carbs (almost new), $200 cam/lifters. Oops! That's $2100. Still not 3-4 times the $1,000 you say you can build one for.
And I bet I'm closer to 500hp than your build is. Where do you live? Let's go racing!
At least you know how to spend your money for good used parts. You better have some serious rear gears for that over carbed over or under camed big block And if you are talking you're closer to 500 hp than I am you should be closed to 650 hp with that tunnel ram and two fours on top. Thats what that intake carb is for with some at least 515 rear gears in a Ford nine in rear end. L@@ks good with that weiand tunnel ram and twin 600 cfm or 660 cfm Holleys. I'll bet that your engine is cold blooded until it worms up a bit with that tunnel ram
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 74
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I'm right there with you joker! I've had BBC's and had them dyno checked too. Also built many like my present engine that use pretty stock bottom ends, and held together well if I shifted under 5500 rpm's.
The .040 over 454 in my '63 Falcon is a mid 70's with 8.5 cr, and the small chamber edelbrock heads boost it to around 9.25 cr. I wish it was 500hp, and I think I might be getting over 400hp easily, but doubt it's much more than 450hp.
If your cam is big enough then your right there at 500 hp. the performer 2 0 simi closed edelbrock heads have enough to flow to support over 540 horsepower out of the box.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:32 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 279 Times in 244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arless View Post
At least you know how to spend your money for good used parts. You better have some serious rear gears for that over carbed over or under camed big block And if you are talking you're closer to 500 hp than I am you should be closed to 650 hp with that tunnel ram and two fours on top. Thats what that intake carb is for with some at least 515 rear gears in a Ford nine in rear end. L@@ks good with that weiand tunnel ram and twin 600 cfm or 660 cfm Holleys. I'll bet that your engine is cold blooded until it worms up a bit with that tunnel ram
Well at least you got one thing right. Tunnel rammed engines are all a little cold blooded at first firing, but since I run a mechanical choke, that's not a problem. It only takes 5-6 minutes of driving to get warm enough.
I'd also guess you've done very little work with a BBC, or you'd never suggest 515 gears in the rear. A BBC with 515 gears would be around 5200 rpm at 80 mph. You'd have a tough time even finishing the 1/8 mile without winding too high, let alone do any 1/4 mile work! A BBC with it's great torque characteristics doesn't need gears anywhere near that low even for 1/8 mile drag racing.
And a tunnel ram can work extremely well at low rpm's and doesn't need to be wound up to the 6,000 rpm range to give plenty of low end grunt and power. I'm running 3.73 gears in my 8.8" Ford rear, and can easily break the slicks loose at most any speed/rpm in 1st or 2nd gear on my Super T10 4 speed.
You really should look at the build that Horsepower TV did on a 454 Chevy. They completely rebuilt it, plus swapped cams, and installed a hi rise intake and carb, with headers. They did a nice build and dyno'd it at 409 HP. Nowhere near 500hp.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:32 PM
jokerZ71's Avatar
Wrench Turner
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Stanton,Tn.
Age: 52
Posts: 2,047
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 138
Thanked 345 Times in 308 Posts
What is your ET & MPH when go thru the lite?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:35 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 279 Times in 244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arless View Post
If your cam is big enough then your right there at 500 hp. the performer 2 0 simi closed edelbrock heads have enough to flow to support over 540 horsepower out of the box.
Make up my mind? First you say my engine is 650 hp, then it's 500 hp. I still think you're guessing, just like you are with your build.
I built my first BBC in 1973, and I've lost track of how many since then. I've got a pretty good fell for what it takes to get to 500hp.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 74
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Protested? What would they protest you for? What class do you run your car?
I don't know of any track that allows protests for compression ratio?
It's not for compression hell you can run as much as you muster. But they are build limits on the engines. No more than a 0.60 over bore, stock stroke, no roller camshafts, no nitrous. No dry sump oil system. Only a windage tray with trap doors are allowed no lengthening the oil pan or knife edging the crankshaft. Car must weigh no less than 3200 lbs. slapper bars and ladder bars are allowed, wheelie bars are allowed. No back halfing cars allowed. drive shaft holder a must have. Any lines have to be steel braided no more than 10'' slicks allowed. scatter shield or diaper is mandatory for automatic trans cars driveshaft hoop mandatory. steel braided lines for carb brakes. most all cars are running 500 and over horsepower. Soo... there is a lot to protest, when you win too many races all the time. If they find nothing wrong they have to pay the money they protested with for a total rebuild either by a machine or for yourself to build. I do not allow anybody to work on my engine. So there you have it
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
compression ratios swompz Engine 7 04-23-2012 01:07 AM
Horsepower vs Torque......ratios? speedball Hotrodding Basics 3 09-27-2011 08:45 PM
Catalytic converters and compression ratios Nuck Chorris Engine 6 09-05-2011 11:19 AM
283 Compression Ratios Bull_81073 Engine 18 02-21-2008 06:13 AM
compression ratios camaroking383 Hotrodding Basics 4 05-27-2006 03:26 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.