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Old 10-31-2005, 07:29 PM
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BK's step by step chip repair

OK, at the onset of this little thread, I am stating that this is the way I do it... There are other ways of repairing chips in paint.. some will fill with color and activated clear, sand and buff... This is more for those Heavy D chips that go all the way down to primer/epoxy of a good size... and works great if you have multiple chips on one panel.

1. Here is how I do it... Sand down the area very good with some 320...sand out the chips themselves very good...

2.Next I will fill the spots with Icing made by USC

3.Then I sand them down all the way until it is just filling the holes

I will update this as I go along tonight and tomorrow
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Old 10-31-2005, 07:36 PM
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4. Now I sand the surrounding area of repair and where I am going to blend out my base and clear with 1000 grit and a 50/50 mix of water and alcohol.. I also lightly sand over top of the repair as I go too.

5. Next I mask off the entire truck to prevent overspray.. I would rather take the etra 30 minutes then not.

6. Next I mix up the epoxy I am going to use to cover those spots... Note this is not always done... even on my part... sometimes I will find spots after base and will make a quick repair without covering with epoxy or primer... This is not the reccommended way, nor am I endorsing it, just stating the facts to the best of my ability


Matthew
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Old 10-31-2005, 07:37 PM
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nice little "picture note"
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Old 10-31-2005, 07:39 PM
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7. Because this repair is soo small and needs little product.. I will be mixing the spi epoxy 1:1 in a 4 ounce shot glass... Also look at the little metal cup I am using to dip out that small amount... It is very hard to pour that small amount..

8. Next we spray a meduim wet coat to cover the area and make it ready for the base and clear next...

Okay time for me to go spray some base.. I will be back with some more pics shortly..

Matthew
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Old 10-31-2005, 07:42 PM
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You don't like that wide masking tape do you?
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:05 PM
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OK went out there and ran my hand over the epoxy.... Uhh still a little wet when it makes major imprints... OOPS he he... Ok, this is the what not to do section of the paint process...LOL We will soldier on though!!

9. Next we remove the tape in surrounding area far away from repair... If you look at the pic I moved it to the top of the bed rail.... Masking tape has no place here anymore... Some like to base and pull a piece of tape every time they lay down base to feather it out.. uh hum ( JIM), but I find that is just setting yourself up for tape lines that will show when you clear... Besides even if you caught them prior to clearing then you will have to lightly sand and that is just an unnecessary step IMO...


Now we wait while the epoxy sets up enough for me to sand out my finger prints....Just our luck huh Jim??

Matthew
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:22 PM
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Time to prep for your blend.
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:35 PM
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Bob, you are right...

I had already sanded well above the repair area previsously for the base and clear blend, but had yet to finish prep...


10. The rest of the exposed panel is cleaned very well.. You can use wax and grease remover or the 50/50 mix...

11. Next, after you are sure the area is free of any wax, grease or dirt, you need to buff the area you are going to clear very well with compound to make sure it is ready for the new clear blend... NOTE: If this is fresh clear you do not need this step of buffing... Only on older finishes and factory OEM is this needed


12. Now clean the area off again making sure there were not any tape lines left behind from the epoxy earlier.. If there are lightly sand them with some 400 before your base ...

Matthew

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Old 10-31-2005, 09:27 PM
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13. The epoxy is lightly sanded where I had my finger prints with some 600 and water...

14. The based is mixed in a shot glass as well... I used a value line black base I had already, since I kept forgetting to call Baker and get some more for this repair... Originally the truck was shot with spi black base... ( I know Barry.. super lazy)

15. Base is shot through a hvlp mini gun... I kept the pressure around 15lbs, and cranked the fluid way in to get my fan pattern right... You can see some of the epoxy test spray outs on the pic of the rear tire masked off.....

BTW to all who read this, I just started blending panels earlier this year.. I had been away from this for around 6 years and back then I always just painted a whole panel, even if it was brand new clear and something happened to it... So if I miss something, or go at this totally wrong please let me know... I am not too proud to learn or admit that I don't know something This should be a learning thread

Matthew
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
You don't like that wide masking tape do you?
I like Duct tape Best!!!!
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Old 10-31-2005, 10:17 PM
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16. A second coat of base is applied...Usually I stop right here and wait until the next day to clear... This does not fit everyones schedule, so I am going to continue just like in a collision repair shop..

17. Clear is mixed in the shot glass as well... SPI Universal clear mixed 1:1 with a spritz of medium reducer, and dash of accelerator... When you break down the ratio for the Polar accelerator at 2 ounces of product you are using a 1/4 of the acc... like I said a dash.

18. Clear is shot on panel to cover repair area.. Each succesive coat and or pass will go up the panel a little bit at a time to blend in... Here is the first coat of clear applied.. You will see the fog in the air, this is not on the panel, I had just shot the clear and took the pic... I will wait 30 minutes and put on a second coat and then if everything looks good will blend the edges

Matthew
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Old 10-31-2005, 11:08 PM
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19. Second and final coat of clear is applied and feathered up the panel above where I had sanded....

20. Now go to your mixing station.. dump out the remaining clear from your cup.. It has done its duty...

21. Next add either a blending agent as I have pictured.. All majors make an agent... Upol comes in a spray can and is loved by all who use it too..OR you can use a medium reducer... blending agent is best though... simply add a small amount in your cup, swish this around with the clear that was on the sides when you poured it out...

22. Now go to your panel and spray the edges of the clear where you have over sprayed onto the untouched clear... You can also spray the whole area if it is to be blended all the way around...ie.. like in the center of a hood...
I also spray this little mixture well past my edges to get the clear that has over sprayed past the edge if you will... if the edges are gone.. STOP
If they still remain... wait 2 minutes... watch your watch it will seem like forever and then spray the edges again... Repeat this procedure until they have melted.. then.... STOP

Today when I get up, I will cut and buff the panel and pull it in the sun to show that it is undectable... as they all should be... I will update the cut and buff with pics as well

BED TIME... Sorry for the lighting in the last pic... It does it no justice

Matthew
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Old 10-31-2005, 11:47 PM
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I was always scared to blend clear... no matter what it usually comes back right? after a couple years?
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:09 AM
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If it is fresh clear, no, if it is OEM there is always the possibility of it happening... This is reserved for most on sail panels where you dont want to re clear the whole roof and opposing sides rear quarter too...

The paint on this truck is 5/6 weeks old... It will be fine... should never be an issue

Matthew
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Old 11-01-2005, 07:03 AM
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BK, you're doing a good job explaining this IMO. If I might add-make sure the blending agent is pure with no traces of clear mixed in and you'll have good results, I see people dump their clear out of the gun and splash some blender in and spray---while this was OK in the days of lacquer it usually presents a problem with the urethane clears. I use a clean gun for the blender. That Dupont chromablender is my favorite--never have a problem with it. Also you need to give plenty of dry time before any buffing and minimal colorsanding on the blend line. The harder the original surface is the longer the wait before buffing IMO. I usually cut the surface open with some fine paper and let it breathe for awhile sometimes then put a lamp on it for an hour or so then buff the next day or later. Most people that have problems with blends usually can blame poor prep with unclean surfaces, bringing the basecoat to far into the blend area which screws up the clear blend, and rushing the sand and buff. JMO. Good work on this one. Bob
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