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You're thinking right on all the above, it's running rich or not getting complete combustion, tune up time for Timmy
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Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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It'll all come together, piece by piece. Good luck.
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Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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If the carburetor on that engine is the original, it is long overdue for a kit or a rebuilt carburetor.
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Quote:
Check the choke: remove the air cleaner lid after the engine is warmed up fully. The choke should now be wide open. If you warm the engine w/o driving the car, the throttle has to be opened slightly to allow it to pop open in some cases. If it doesn't fully open the engine will run rich, w/black smelly smoke. There's also a chance the air bleeds (red arrows, below) have become clogged. You can use a can of carb spray. Follow the directions and see if that helps- sometimes that's all that's needed. Lastly, readjust the idle mixture screws. IIRC, I used to use 2 turns out from lightly seated as the base setting. Start and warm up the engine FULLY. If it doesn't want to idle, give the screws an additional 1/2 turn each until it will idle steadily. Then adjust the idle mixture screws to give the best vacuum or highest idle speed. You may need to readjust the curb idle to bring the speed down if they were out of adjustment. If it's none of the above, time to rebuild it. I would strongly recommend you buy a new float when you get the rebuild kit. ![]() Rochester 2G carb air bleeds Last edited by cobalt327; 11-21-2012 at 02:41 PM. |
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