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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 10:06 AM
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Oz foe but I think vinces sound better....I'm from Ga after all and everyone says I talk funny

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2010, 11:58 PM
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well i tried the ospho and it did take out the black streaks..but i will have to do it a couple more times. still some in there and mabey i should try a rougher scott brite pad?? i used a red one, D/A with 80 and also by hand. picked a small hole so i will have to do some metal replacement on the bottom edge.





lots of small little of these all over




the biggest





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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 06:47 AM
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Thats pretty common with the old cars...try a wire wheel and wheel it in good ...it might not come completely off..just reapply as many times as you need to...wipe the excess off and when your ready to prime dont forget to sand it and clean with a wax & grease remover...I still see paint around the lock and bottom edge ....that needs to come off too...
One more thing: Its important to wear some sort of latex gloves when working with bare metal so you do get oils from your hands on the surface.that'll give you a whole other set of troubles...
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:39 AM
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yes gloves are a must even with just the ospho. dont really wanna breath it either.. i will also remove the rest of the paint..


i was poking with a small screw driver to find thin metal and it poked through in the areas i highlighted


[IMG][/IMG]



do you think i should have my body/metal guy cut out and replace just those areas or should i have him do a full strip? the rest of the metal seams strong and fine but i dont know if it could be rusting from the inside out

a full strip like i drew here

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:34 AM
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usually when you have a few holes the whole bottom should be replaced but not always.I use a pick hammer to see how weak it is first. if its in pretty good shape you can try welding the holes...but if you replace the metal its much easier and better to include the lip...just bend a piece of metal to an L and fold the bottom up forming the lip on the inside and sides ,it'll look like original...another advantage of this is you can clean the inner structure of all rust also...
on a good note thats about the easiest and most fun kind of job to do ...perfect for a first timer ...if you can read a tape and have a few basic tools I'm sure you can do it..If your up for it, let me know
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:48 AM
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Skybryte Quart Ospho Treatment
Product Code: 512178
This for a quart plastic bottle. Costs about $8-$10 last time I bought it.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:12 PM
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you are right, im gonna go get some metal bent up and usually i have had my metal/body guy do most of the patch work just because they dont sell much for these cars so everyting has to be made , but i think i could mabey tackle this, i can weld just dont want to warp anything.. il get my metal then cut out the strip but what would be a good thing to spray or brush on the inside ?
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:23 PM
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small tack welds , moving around as far as you can to keep the metal from generating too much heat. if it get to hot let cool and continue. DO NOT quench with water to cool down. the tacks should end up being a continuous weld. the place your going to patch on the deck lid you should be fine. its th bid flat panel that give you the most trouble.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2010, 06:30 PM
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i mean the big flat panels get you in the most trouble.. i really need to slow down oh yea weld thru primer (zinc oxide weld through primer) where you weld. i would put epoxy primer where you are going to do the hem flang
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