Black Work Van with old removed decal fade showing up- Way to eliminate this? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:56 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,366
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 47
Thanked 150 Times in 142 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 777funk
That's what I was thinking.

Ok... new thread. Cheapest way to paint this thing black. I'm guessing SPI Clear will be a great option. I've been wanting to try that product for a while.

A van is a lot of paint!
Ok some might not agree but the cheapest black paint job i know of is to use the SPI black epoxy primer and then universal clear over that..shines good and is holding up after 5 years in service..

Sam

    Advertisement
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 05:45 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,211
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 468 Times in 396 Posts
Yup and now Barry's put a UV protection in his epoxy so it can also be used as a hot rod black with no clear.
.....Ya gotta love that guy....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 06:39 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,726
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 207 Times in 166 Posts
regardless of what you use you need to buzz it down good with 80 grit then epoxy it ..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 08:51 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: MO
Posts: 150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
regardless of what you use you need to buzz it down good with 80 grit then epoxy it ..
What's the best way to buzz it down with 80 grit?

I've got a Dynabrade, a National Detroit Inline 1/3 sheet sander, and a right angle buffer polisher (rotary).

Wet/Dry 80 or stearated dry paper?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 09:03 AM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 777funk
What's the best way to buzz it down with 80 grit?

I've got a Dynabrade, a National Detroit Inline 1/3 sheet sander, and a right angle buffer polisher (rotary).

Wet/Dry 80 or stearated dry paper?
You'll need to use the 80 grit with a D/A sander. And then after priming use 320 grit on the D/A . If repainting in black. I would reprime after the D/A sanding and block sand with 400 wet, using a guide coat. Black will show every imperfection.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 09:04 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,366
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 47
Thanked 150 Times in 142 Posts
I would use the dynabrade to remove the paint and feather back to good paint. In fact I would dynabrade the whole thing after a good scrubbing with Dawn and hot water..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 09:10 AM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
I would use the dynabrade to remove the paint and feather back to good paint. In fact I would dynabrade the whole thing after a good scrubbing with Dawn and hot water..

Sam
I don't know what kind of dynabrade you have. I just checked the website, and there are many different dynabrade products. If you have a dynabrade orbital sander, it will work just fine. Same action as a D/A .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 11:43 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: MO
Posts: 150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
I don't know what kind of dynabrade you have. I just checked the website, and there are many different dynabrade products. If you have a dynabrade orbital sander, it will work just fine. Same action as a D/A .
I have a Dynabrade Palm (DA orbital sander) with a 3/32" orbit.

I've got several air sanders of different types and an electric Random Orbital with two different orbit sizes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2012, 05:56 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,211
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 468 Times in 396 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
regardless of what you use you need to buzz it down good with 80 grit then epoxy it ..
I'm going to have to disagree here on two points First off epoxy isnt the best choice For this job for two reasons ,it takes to long to cure and it although it will fill it wont fill like a 2K build primer...two coats of build primer will be plenty and it'll ready for sanding the next day instead of next week....
Second 80 is a bit to agressive ,all you want to do is level the surface a little and provide a rough enough surface for the primer to stick,...Sure 80 will work but it'll take the paint down to the metal in many spots and excentuate and actually cause divets and waves from sanding ,especally from someone with little experiance using a DA,not to mention the 80 grit scratches themselves that'll now need to be filled and sanded , its just not necessary to get rid of the ghost edges from the vinyl,(after all its only the edges were talking about that'll show) ,your just trying to fill that little step.
Theres no sence making this a big job ,it isnt going to be a show truck and trust me, the last thing in the world you want to do is strip a van, you just want the have a nice truck and do it yourself...Over the years I've done hundreds of trucks and vans like this it works great and its the fastest way with the least amount of work....also the cheapest.....
regaurdless of what you sand with whether its 80 or 180 you cant just sand then prime ,it'll have to be 320 sanded about 4 inches farther out than you sanded with the rougher paper other wise you'll be spending the whole day sanding primer off unsanded paint...always "outline" with 320 before priming..I just thought I'd throw that in there because it never seems to be brought up but its something that must be done.like using a wax& grease remover ,sometimes we over look telling newbies this because we just do it automaticly without even thinking about it. its important ...

Last edited by deadbodyman; 02-09-2012 at 06:04 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:09 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,726
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 207 Times in 166 Posts
during the 80's i ran close to 10 units a day on average and they were new . at the end of the year we had to deal with the two tone crew cabs. 10 to 15 a week. the only way to get rid of the tape stripe was to remove it and buzz the area with 80. you can not prime it away. it is the metal that is effected and 80 is needed to get rid of the ridge . you can prime and block all you want but once it hits the sun it will ghost back. as for epoxy i can shoot today and sand tomorrow .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:22 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: MO
Posts: 150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Also DBM, I'll be spraying the whole van. I don't know if I mentioned that or not. But the entire van is pretty faded. It needs new paint. I suppose maybe I could sand back the clear and buff. Last time I just buffed with a medium compound and that took the faded look away but it came back.

I'm thinking the only way to get rid of it is to sand and repaint. I think my new plan is:
-Sand the decal areas to metal with 100 grit (I have lots of 100 disks).
-Sand the metal to 180 to refine the 100 a bit
-Sand the whole thing to 320 and scuff all paint

Then:
-Spray two coats of black SPI epoxy primer
-Spray two coats of Univeral Clear

If all is ok call it done. If it's got anything I don't like, sand it out and spray another coat of clear.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:24 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,211
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 468 Times in 396 Posts
Back in the 80's we were still using lacquer primer so that dont count.and a two tone painted edge is totally different ,its a much thicker edge...and nobody can can change the cure time of epoxy,it'll take 3-4 coats using epoxy ,two coats with 2k...
I'm not trying to pee you off shine I'm simply disagreeing with you and offering an easier ,cheaper and faster way ...as I said before your way works too...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:32 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,726
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 207 Times in 166 Posts
at first mike we would feather the edge down . but the 1/2 tape line came back. not the paint edge . buzzing a 2 inch area down to metal was the only cure.
i use only epoxy to prime with . i do one good double coat then block the next day .

i would also not clear the black epoxy. a good ss black will serve you better.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:33 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,211
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 468 Times in 396 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 777funk
Also DBM, I'll be spraying the whole van. I don't know if I mentioned that or not. But the entire van is pretty faded. It needs new paint. I suppose maybe I could sand back the clear and buff. Last time I just buffed with a medium compound and that took the faded look away but it came back.

I'm thinking the only way to get rid of it is to sand and repaint. I think my new plan is:
-Sand the decal areas to metal with 100 grit (I have lots of 100 disks).
-Sand the metal to 180 to refine the 100 a bit
-Sand the whole thing to 320 and scuff all paint

Then:
-Spray two coats of black SPI epoxy primer
-Spray two coats of Univeral Clear

If all is ok call it done. If it's got anything I don't like, sand it out and spray another coat of clear.
I wouldnt use the epoxy as a base coat and then clear if your trying to save a little money .use a single stage black no clear,that'll run you 200.00 The epoxy alone will cost that
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:54 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,211
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 468 Times in 396 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
at first mike we would feather the edge down . but the 1/2 tape line came back. not the paint edge . buzzing a 2 inch area down to metal was the only cure.
i use only epoxy to prime with . i do one good double coat then block the next day .

i would also not clear the black epoxy. a good ss black will serve you better.
Thats tough enough Shine ,When I lived in Fla I had the misfortune of being within 10 miles of one of the biggest van conversion companies in the country and those things were the worst to do repairs on ,very shotty work and it seemed like everyone had one and just about all of then had those decals slathered all over them we had to do them quick and get them out ,they took up to much room...I have one in my shop right now ,had to build six 4' horses just to paint the roof,talk about a major PITA....Its the last dang van I'm going to do ,my back is too old for this stuff anything that makes a crappy job like this easier and faster I'm game for...I almost hired someone....almost
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Kustom Shop's black cherry kandy over black diamond metallic for dark reddish-black? 350cruiser Body - Exterior 3 08-03-2010 07:02 PM
Paint a fade holeshot92 Body - Exterior 1 12-31-2008 08:26 PM
Fade away paint oldcpecdr Body - Exterior 5 12-15-2008 08:51 PM
Lots of work finally showing progress D9ZZ Body - Exterior 4 09-23-2008 12:19 PM
Fade Away Paint ScottRods2945 Body - Exterior 0 08-22-2007 12:45 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.