Black Work Van with old removed decal fade showing up- Way to eliminate this? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:14 AM
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Black Work Van with old removed decal fade showing up- Way to eliminate this?

I've got a van that used to be a shuttle that is Black with lots of decals that have been removed. There is no adhesive residue left but it's got sort of a UV haze that has been left around the decals.

I gave it a good buffing and this brought the dead paint back to life and it was very hard to see where the decals were. However after a year it came back just as bad.

Is there a way to eliminate this?

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Old 02-04-2012, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777funk
I've got a van that used to be a shuttle that is Black with lots of decals that have been removed. There is no adhesive residue left but it's got sort of a UV haze that has been left around the decals.

I gave it a good buffing and this brought the dead paint back to life and it was very hard to see where the decals were. However after a year it came back just as bad.

Is there a way to eliminate this?
Not really. The paint that was under the decals is not as aged from the UV rays as the exposed paint. A complete paint job is the only fix that I know of. IMO
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Old 02-04-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by adantessr
Not really. The paint that was under the decals is not as aged from the UV rays as the exposed paint. A complete paint job is the only fix that I know of. IMO
That's what I was thinking.

Ok... new thread. Cheapest way to paint this thing black. I'm guessing SPI Clear will be a great option. I've been wanting to try that product for a while.

A van is a lot of paint!
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Not really. The paint that was under the decals is not as aged from the UV rays as the exposed paint. A complete paint job is the only fix that I know of. IMO
even a repaint wont cure the problem no matter how much sanding you do ...the only way to make them go away is to sand ,PRIME,re sand then paint....its a real PITA
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman
even a repaint wont cure the problem no matter how much sanding you do ...the only way to make them go away is to sand ,PRIME,re sand then paint....its a real PITA
Just a question, deadbodyman, since I am sure you have painted many many more cars than I have. Would a good sanding, and then a sealer, then a topcoat work also ?
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:56 AM
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I wish it would...I'm doing one right now ,its a high top van with decal type graghics all over it...removing the graghics then the old glue (3M adheasive remover),I sand with 180 prime ,then sand...as far as I know this is the only way to garuntee there is no ghost of the decals coming back.
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
even a repaint wont cure the problem no matter how much sanding you do ...the only way to make them go away is to sand ,PRIME,re sand then paint....its a real PITA

how so.. sand the black, spray sealer,(they call it sealer for a reason) then either prime and sand , or just start with the base..
if older paint is bleading through your sealer. somethings wrong..
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:19 AM
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Agree with DBM, its a ***** to get rid of.

The problem is the paint under the graphic did not shrink as much as the unprotected paint.
There is a height difference and until you do something about that difference you will continue to see it.

My experiance is sand it all off or feather sand all edges of the ghost, then build up with 2k primer, then block flat.

Sealer by itself won't do any good, it is not bleed it is height differences.

I'd seal the whole vehicle with SPI epoxy mixed 1:1:1 before putting a color coat on it.
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:52 AM
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Now I'm afraid to move! Thanks a lot guys lol.

You have me pretty nervous about the ghosting of the decals coming back after spending hours of hard work. But I guess better to know now than later right!

Would sanding off the dead clear and spraying the SPI Black epoxy seal it off or not really?


So DBM, what's the best way to 180 it? Dynabrade with a 3/16" orbit and a non loading disk? If I'm using the Epoxy as a base coat I'm hoping I won't have to 180 grit it to the metal. I'd hate to do that.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
Agree with DBM, its a ***** to get rid of.

The problem is the paint under the graphic did not shrink as much as the unprotected paint.
There is a height difference and until you do something about that difference you will continue to see it.

My experiance is sand it all off or feather sand all edges of the ghost, then build up with 2k primer, then block flat.

Sealer by itself won't do any good, it is not bleed it is height differences.

I'd seal the whole vehicle with SPI epoxy mixed 1:1:1 before putting a color coat on it.
so you are say'n that the height difference is more than the mil' of a sealer coat, 2 coats of primer and a block sand.. and it'll still show?
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:24 AM
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it is one of the hardest things to accomplish. you will need to take it down to metal . then do several coats of epoxy and let it cure for a few weeks. then sand and reprime with epoxy and you can paint. dont be surprised if it ghost back on you some . even the metal under it is effected by the decals.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by shine
. even the metal under it is effected by the decals.

explain? how a decal thats got paint and primer between it and the metal, could do anything to the metal..

it's a decal not an english wheel..
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by stich626
so you are say'n that the height difference is more than the mil' of a sealer coat, 2 coats of primer and a block sand.. and it'll still show?
Just remember, that coat of sealer, 2 coats of primer are on everything, you will need to block it down to the point that the "decal" ghosts are no higher than the surrounding area.

Like I said before feather edge the ghosts so the transition is not so abrupt, then build it up and block it out.
Good chance it will be gone for good... but there is that 1/1000 chance it might reappear some dark and gloomy night, LOL.
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
Just remember, that coat of sealer, 2 coats of primer are on everything, you will need to block it down to the point that the "decal" ghosts are no higher than the surrounding area.

Like I said before feather edge the ghosts so the transition is not so abrupt, then build it up and block it out.
Good chance it will be gone for good... but there is that 1/1000 chance it might reappear some dark and gloomy night, LOL.
but after you block it, it's never coming back, right..
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Old 02-06-2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
Just remember, that coat of sealer, 2 coats of primer are on everything, you will need to block it down to the point that the "decal" ghosts are no higher than the surrounding area.

Like I said before feather edge the ghosts so the transition is not so abrupt, then build it up and block it out.
Good chance it will be gone for good... but there is that 1/1000 chance it might reappear some dark and gloomy night, LOL.
if your doing a high dollar show job Shine has it right,go right down to the metal we dont take any chances on that level .....
If your doing a daily driver and a D.I Y. to boot,just sand the old paint with 180 prime it then DA it with 320 or wet block with 400 and you'll be fine with or without a paint sealer.....The van I'm doing right now is NOT getting a sealer because its gray primer and the paint is artic gray and only a SS paint ,its not a high dollar job but it wont show a ghost either. but theres always that 1/10th of 1% chance...I dont usually use a sealer but if I had a black car with gray primer I would spray a coat of black on the gray primer spots wait 10 min then start spraying the car.when I do use a sealer its always SPI epoxy 1:1 at 10-20% and it always gets sanded a little before I paint or at least the dirt and trash gets nubbed before I paint

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