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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 10:33 AM
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What kind of things would you have to do to neutralize it? Wouldn't just pressure washing it with that Holdtight be enough?
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 10:44 AM
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Most paint manufacturers will not waranty there products if soda blasted. Most all of them specifically state this on tech sheets. Soda also if not completely neutalized will DESTROY metal very shortly. It is corrosive and will cause the metal to rust. I have personally seen 3 cars that were completely restored 10? years ago that were complete rust buckets because of this. It is all from not properly cleaning the cars.
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Old 01-16-2011, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chase1994
Thanks, added this to our wiki article on Soda blasting. If anyone knows of a better resource on soda blasting than our wiki article, please let me know, and we'll incorporate its information into our article. The article also includes specific positions on soda blasting from some major paint and primer manufacturers.

Our wiki article on Media blasting could use some development.

We also have a wiki article on Sandblasting. It's not very long, and largely re-states what MARTINSR is saying.

The position of the sandblasting wiki article is that sandblasting is ill-advised because:

1. Sandblasting causes sheet metal distortion via impingement.
2. Prolonged sandblasting of sheet metal *may* also cause warping from frictional heat, and *may* create chloride ions and corrosive salts that promote rust.

Please adjust/correct/update the wiki articles as necessary. Or, post in this thread, and I'll adjust the articles to best reflect forum consensus on this topic.
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Old 01-16-2011, 03:03 PM
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There are a lot of different blasting media that can be used, not just sand and soda.

Sand has all kinds of health risks associated with it. People will say they blast all the time and have no health issues. Some people have smoked their entire life with no issues too. Want to take up smoking cause billy bob says it's safe? Yeah, not the best idea.

I use Nickel Slag. It is a little more money but doesn't have all the nasty health issues.

Read this! http://www.silicosis-injury-attorney...ing_risks.html -and this- http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/92-102.html

"In 1974, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health recommended that silica sand (or other substances containing more than 1% free silica) be prohibited as abrasive blasting material and that less hazardous materials be used in blasting operations."

Here is how I found blasting media in my area:

First I called the local rental place and asked if they rented blasting equipment, they did. I asked where to get blasting media, they gave me the phone number of the local place. I called them and they have all kinds of different materials and they suggested I use Nickel Slag for the parts I am blasting. It is only $14.00 for a 100# bag, so it's not that much money to ensure your health!

Here is a link to the place I got the Nickel Slag from: http://www.unitedwesterndenver.com/p...ives.html.html

You will notice they do not have any silica sand listed that can be used for blasting.

Blasting inside a cabinet (self contained) with a dust handler system is one thing.

When blasting in the open you need to use a respirator, but don't just use a "dust mask". To find the correct respirator look at the MSDS sheet for the specific media you are using and talking to the local place that sells respirators. Just to show how nasty sand is the only approved respirator for blasting in an open environment with sand containing silica is a type CE pressure demand abrasive blasting respirator (see photo below). Probably will cost more than a sandblaster.

Type CE abrasive-blasting respirator (SAR), operates in a pressure demand or other positive pressure mode. Positive pressure means it has a fresh air supply being pumped to the operator eliminating the possibility of breathing the visible and invisible dust.

Your health is worth doing the research on this.... your other alternative is to take your parts to a professional. I do some blasting myself, but not very much. Between the nasty stuff (lead based paint and ???) that comes off the part and the filthy nature of blasting it's better done by a professional for a large job, IMO.

Hope this helps!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 03:23 PM
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Thanks for the info, helped alot. I heard of walnut shells, how good does it work? Glass beads? ANd if you run this other media, do you just use a regular sand blaster and buy a conversion kit or how does that work?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 08:10 PM
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I do a lot of blasting and you will need enough air presser I use 135-155 and you should have 21 CFM at 135 PSI and you will need clean air if you dont you will have a clog up blaster and if you use Dupont Starblast you will not need to clean the car before you apply epoxy primer it has no silica so all you have to to is apply the primer and FYI dont blast your hood I have seen a lot of hoods gone bad you should have it dipped or chemical stripped good luck
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2011, 10:36 AM
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Thanks, what kind of blaster do you use? Like brand, or model?
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:54 AM
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I use black diamond 40/80 blasting sand from tractor supply, my guess is that it not the "healthiest" sand to use?
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panelwagon62
I use black diamond 40/80 blasting sand from tractor supply, my guess is that it not the "healthiest" sand to use?
That's coal slag a very commonly used media, every type of "grit" has it's own health issues. READ the MSDS sheets before using any of them. I'm a sandblaster/painter who does heavy industrial work everyday, trust me when I say there is no safe blasting media out there. Just be sure to wear the appropriate PPE while doing the work, a supplied air blast hood is your best defense. To the original poster I would strongly suggest purchasing a blast hood and a quality respirator and renting the equipment to see if it is something you are actually going to do long term.
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:51 PM
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Is it a good media to use because its the only thing I know of I can get locally. What do you mean by PPE equipment?
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Old 01-18-2011, 05:40 PM
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PPE stands for personal protective equipment.
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Old 01-19-2011, 12:22 PM
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Bear Lake Rodder 48 Chevy SD

I thought about getting a soda blaster to do my 48 Chevy Sedan Delivery but I checked with PPG and they said they do not recommend any of their paint products on cars that have been soda blasted. They said you can never get all of the soda out of the metal and it is in the nooks and crannies of the body and will come out over time and cause problems. That was enough for me; don't want to do all this and paint and then have problems. I had the 48 blasted with steel media and it turned out great with no warpage. The guys knew what they were doing. It cost $600 to do the body only, inside and out. I had a lot of surface rust and it took care of it. If I could have sanded it I would have but the surface rust needed to be blasted to get all the pores clean or else the paint will bubble as the rust keeps working under the paint.
Good luck with the project.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2011, 01:25 PM
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Just my thoughts on soda blasting. I am currently having my 1938 chevrolet coupe painted. The owner of the shop is redoing a 60's chevrolet truck for the second time for free because the truck was soda blasted. The paint comes right off down to the bare metal with an air hose. The paint manufacturer did not know about soda blasting either and told them to just prime right over the truck without neutralizing with catastrophic results. Just my two cents, but I would never soda blast anything I wanted primer and paint to stick too!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2011, 12:57 PM
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Thanks for the replys guys. I'll believe I'll just stick with my array of orbital sanders, Jitterbugs, and block/hand sanders. Probably just be cheaper in the long run for me. Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacytracy
Just my thoughts on soda blasting. I am currently having my 1938 chevrolet coupe painted. The owner of the shop is redoing a 60's chevrolet truck for the second time for free because the truck was soda blasted. The paint comes right off down to the bare metal with an air hose.[B] The paint manufacturer did not know about soda blasting either and told them to just prime right over the truck without neutralizing with catastrophic results.[/B] Just my two cents, but I would never soda blast anything I wanted primer and paint to stick too!
This was NOT a major manufacturer like PPG, DuPont, RM, ect.... They have known this for YEARS and have been warning about it for years.
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