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Old 10-06-2005, 06:28 PM
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bleeding brakes

I just swapped the master in my 59 Ranchero, converting to a dual master system. When I bleed the brakes, the pedal all of a sudden drops to the floor, and I loose all braking power. There seems to be air still coming out of the line, but I've run so much fluid through it I can't see there being any air left. I did a leak check and everything is dry. Is it possible for air to get in the system and screw me up without there being a visible leak? The rears seem to bleed fine, but when I go to the front the problems begin. Any ideas?

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Old 10-06-2005, 07:06 PM
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Do you have stock rubber hoses leading off of hard lines? If so, the rubber might be so old and worn that it's cutting off flow somewhere.
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Old 10-06-2005, 08:06 PM
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Are you closing the bleeder before letting up on the pedal? That would cause air to draw back into the system if your not, also did you bench bleed the new MC?
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Old 10-06-2005, 08:20 PM
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If you did not bench bleed the Master before installing you will be bleeding for awhile.
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:23 AM
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Master was bench bled, and the bleeder is closed before letting up on pedal. We are using a two man system, not the mickey mouse "do it by yourself" thing. I haven't tried the mighty vac yet. If there was a problem in the hose, would the wheel get stuck {brakes staying on} or the pedal not travel because no fluid is going down? I checked the rod length coming out of the booster, it seems correct. Is there a way to check it accurately? I'm also not sure about how the brake pressure switch works. I took the sender unit off, and I can see a thin rod in the hole. If the switch is screwed up could it cause this problem?
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Old 10-07-2005, 05:03 AM
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Have you tried gravity bleeding them?
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:58 AM
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Kurt,
You did not say whether you did anything to the calipers but I will make this suggestion anyway. It is quite common on some cars to get the calipers mixed up....right on the left side and the left on the right side. If this happens, you will never get the air out of the system. When properly installed the bleeder screw will be at the top of the caliper where the air can rise and be expelled. Don't laugh....I see this all the time.

Secondly, you should have bench bled your master cylinder before installing it. There is more than one way to do this but I find one of the most effective techniques is to attach tubes that run from the ports of the cylinder and empty them back into the top of the master cylinder making sure that the open end of the tube is submerged in the brake fluid. Slowly push in the piston using a screw driver and observe the bubbles coming out of the tubes. When you release the screw driver the tubes will suck in brake fluid so you do not have to worry about getting air back in the tubes as long as they remain submerged. Keep doing this until you stop seeing bubbles. Put some plugs in the ports and mount your cylinder. After all is hooked up you can then bleed the calipers and wheel cylinders.
Hope this helps.
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Old 10-12-2005, 12:54 PM
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You did not say whether you also converted to front disks, what you are using for a proportioning valve etc. All this matters. The brake lines are routed differently on a disk/drum setup than a drum/drum setup.
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Old 10-12-2005, 04:26 PM
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Turns out the problem was in the brake low pressure switch. Can't explain how, but we swapped in a new one and it worked great. Thanks for the help.
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