[SouthernRodder]

Ok. I painted my 68 firebird tuesday. I had a run in the clear coming out of the drip rail. It ran onto the top of my quarterpanel. After watersanding the blame thing about 45 minutes today I sanded through the clear in one little spot and exposed some base. Its probably about 1/8" x 1/16". Not very big. What do I need to do to fix it. The car has two coats of Dupont Chromaseal, three coats of Omni Viper Red base and three good coats of Nason 497 clear. Can I just shoot more clear on the spot and wetsand it level with the rest and buff. I've never had to blend before but I understand that is one of the beauties of clear. Just need some expert advice.

Thanks guys,
Stan

[cab]

SR - Can't help you with your issue, but I am planning to paint my 67 Firebird that same color. Would love to see some pics when you are done!

Chris

[CDJr]

That all depends...a lotta times, itll lift the base and cause it to wrinkle, then ya hafta start all over. A lot depends on if ya used activator in the basecoat. If ya did, itd be less likely to lift, if ya didnt, then itll probably lift.

[gibby-g]

I've seen guys use a pin stripe brush to fill in the burn through, couple coats some wet/dry and little buffing and it came out nice!

[fordSR]

I've had good luck using an air brush. First coat should be light to reduce the chance of wrinklling, wait till it's tack free then put on four or five more coats. Remember the airbrush film build will be less than your big gun so you'll need to apply more coats for the same film build to cut and buff the area. The problem will be the sanded base will look different than the surrounding area and may be noticeable after it's done. Using a brush of any kind to clear the spot increases the risk of lifting because it goes on too heavy. Using the airbrush let you control the amount of material. I've had an old Pasche airbrush that I've used for years and use it all the time for base and clearing those hard to get areas that are difficult to keep from dry spraying even with a small detail gun. If you've never used one, try it, you'll like it. I think they are now selling for about $50 for the kit. The airbrush comes with about a 6" hose, and I have a small regulator on the end of the hose so I can drop off my big gun, attach the airbrush and shoot. This way you can use both without adjusting your main air regulator. I don't know where I have the airbrush regulator set because I never look at it and never change it. Probably around 25 lbs.

[baddbob]

Are you colorsanding and buffing the whole car?

[baddbob]

The bottom of the drip rail near the quarter panel sail panel is a common spot to have runs on this design, I've been there once or twice myself
If you're planning on sanding and buffing the complete car I would get to sanding the rest of the quarter then do your blend over the sanded surface. You might need to spot in some color-solid colors usually won't show if you clear over a clear cut through but if you wet the area with water and still see the cut through then you'll definately need to spot in some color before clearing. To do a proper clear blend you'll need to buy some blender or blending solvent, this is designed to be misted over the dry clearcoat edge and it melts it so it will lay flat. If you do a search on blending this has all been covered here before and Bondoking did a tutorial with photos to give you an idea of what the process involves.

[BondoKing]

Thanks Bob.. here is the link

Chip Repair Guide

[Zanzahl]

Greetings,

I recently completed the BC let flash 1.5 hours at 68 fegrees 58% humidity, used min spirits and tack it it up then applied clear.
Issue: 1. NO Runs in bc or cc. 2. 89% of the car is like glass no orange peel or blemish. The 11% remaining appears dry and of course was not noticeable until after the 20 minute recoat time expired according the EZ -Clear data sheet. 3. The areas are on the under side areas like lower fender, lower doors, and lower rockers and under the doors. I have 2 coats of cc on the car in prep for sanding and buffing.

EX-317 manufacture site: http://www.montanabigsky.com/images/...b_brochure.pdf

Question: 1. Can clear be repainted over after a light sanding; what grit? what is danger of cleaning, tacking and repainting clear with out sanding. Also for the areas that are dry meaning little or no clear can this be sprayed with clear now? BC recommendation is apply cc no greater than 72 hours. I think I know the answer, but need confirmation.

All in all the car is looking like it should be on a showroom floor I never thought I would ever see it shiny again.

See my profile pic of where it all started...

No pictures yet, but will soon.

Possible answer to questions:

http://www.montanabigsky.com/PIS/2004_EZ317.pdf

RE-WORKING
• Due to the strength of some reducers, care needs to be taken if new color coat is going to be applied
over fresh clear.
• Allow clear to dry overnight at 75oF/23oC prior to reapplying color coat. If a full break through of clear
is done while making a repair, lightly apply color using a faster flashing reducer. It may be necessary
to create a barrier using a catalyzed primer to avoid lifting on the repair edge.
• In temperatures below 75oF/23oC, the use of a heat lamp will help cure the break through edge so
lifting will be minimized.
• Re-clearing may be done as soon as 16–hours or up to 72–hours without having to scuff clear.