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-   -   Blending color , clearing panel (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/blending-color-clearing-panel-139808.html)

Polish Painter 06-03-2008 02:07 PM

Blending color , clearing panel
 
I had to do a small repair on a trunk lid and bumper. Color silver/gold . Pretty new to blending. 3inch repair in center of trunk. Repaired area , scotchbite scuff paste rest of panel . Applied dbc 500 clear base to panel. Applied DBC color to repair area until covered. Mixed 50/50 with 500 blender and feathered into rest of panel staying about 6 inches away quarters. Cleared and looked fine on driveway and in shop. Problem had about 3 spots on bumper to repair , all on rear of bumper not sides . Spotted in with color each repair area and blended out a little. Looked at it outside and could see where I started and stopped between repair areas. Silverish what I sprayed and goldish original. looked fine within 3 feet but whan I stepped back about 12 ft more noticeable. Back in garage , basically colored rear of bumper and stopped where it starts to wrap around . Cleared looks alot better . Give me some advice " no matter how small the repair do you have to spray color almost on complete panel stayng 6- 8 inches away from next panel " ?? Are solid colors the same situation ? Seems like to me on that bumper if I had colored half of it and stopped in the middle it would have still been noticable. I just thought colors blending better than that . Give me some advice , Thanks

460beast 06-03-2008 05:57 PM

from reading it appears you didi it right its just a matter of the primer used. the color primer effects the color of the paint. light primer will make a lighter shade and darker will go darker. also... I tend to do 12" to 18" into the next panel if possible. sometimes you cant do that but it helps if you can.

Polish Painter 06-03-2008 06:59 PM

If you blend a solid color , Do you also reduce it with Dbc 500 blender after achieving coverage on the repair area ? Are solid colors more forgiving then metallics ?

baddbob 06-03-2008 09:18 PM

Solid colors are more forgiving than metalics. Metalics require you to match the spraying technique used when the car was painted-too much air pressure and the color will be light, less atomization and the color will be dark, also texture plays into how the metalics lay down also sealer will affect how the metalics lay down. Metalics are trickier for sure. Fine silvers and golds are usually the toughest. Horizontal panels like hood,roof,and decklid are also tougher because of overspray control. Larger areas give more area to blend for a gradual transition. Spraying a test panel will confirm if your color is close enough to pull off the blend. How did you like the DBC500?

Polish Painter 06-04-2008 12:23 PM

I think the DBC 500 allowed me to transition the blend easier . I got the deck lid right the first try. Not so lucky with the bumper , I did not realize I needed to base almost the complete bumper and stop where it wraps around the car. Blending is new to me but I would like to master it if possible ?? Gold and silvers seem to have me a little gun shy. I guess a lot of experience is necessary to get good.

baddbob 06-04-2008 09:39 PM

Don't feel bad, I battled with a fine mercedees silver a few days ago and I've had paint guns in my hand since 1983. Some colors are a bear and some paint brands are more difficult than others for example: DuPont's Chromabase and Chroma Premiere basecoats are very sensitive to metalic hangups on scuffed areas-with fine metalics they will highlight even 1000 grit scratches so using an intercoat clear before the blend is a necessity with those. If you can master the metalics then solid colors will be a cake walk.


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