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Old 05-20-2008, 07:55 PM
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Blisters in SS au after 12 weeks




Blisters in SS au after 12 weeks

From what I thought were pinholes have developed into blisters (pimples 0.8- 1 mm in diameter) which are bumps that seem to have formed meandering shapes (3"x 2" teardrop shapes for eg) and lines. some bumps even have a fine line between them!
The bumps rarely appear on there own but in clusters.
Have appeared only on horizontal plains and lesser on angled areas, not at all on vertical surfaces.
I took some P2000 to the bumps and leaves small round exposed primer.

The weather has turned cold and damp in the last week or two which may have triggered this??

Car was prepared mostly to bare metal, epoxied, then HS primer,sanded 180 dry, re-primed wet sanded 400. re-primed wet-sanded 600. dry for 4 days prior to top-coated in SS 2K AU 3 coats.Slow reducer and medium harder used.

What has gone wrong??
What to do?
Jambs, undersides etc all OK (done at home)

Thanks

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Old 05-20-2008, 08:13 PM
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not allowing enough time for water to dry between wetsanding and primer would be my guess. or possibly contamination (oil or water) in air lines when priming.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:11 PM
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Was the air compressor in the same room when the car was painted?
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
Was the air compressor in the same room when the car was painted?
Only for the primer coats, yes
The compressor is 20' away in a very well ventilated garage near an open door.
When wetsanding between coats it was always left 24hours at 90F before recoating.
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Old 05-21-2008, 03:05 AM
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You have what looks like a result of airborne contamination

Compressors cast little molecules of oil into the air, Where they land on the surface paint will try to go around and create what is called a fish-eye. A defect that starts at the primer level in this case and as as you have found won't sand out since there is no base sitting there to level and be ok. It may be that you'll need to refinish the affected panels. Sand them almost out so to leave the imperfections(fish-eyes) sealed, re-coat and even clear/blend if it's a viable option,,

Oh yeah , eliminate the chance that the compressor is the culprit by moving it farther away to it's own shed...

just another base you have to cover to get the best out of the hobby
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:04 AM
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is there filler in this area ?
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:15 AM
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I'm with Shine on this. Sounds like body filler issues and trapped solvents.
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:47 AM
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did you wipe it down with silicone remover before painting..? I didn't see that mentioned. Very important in my opinion.

Keith
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Old 05-21-2008, 12:01 PM
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"I took some 2000 to the bumps and leaves small round exposed primer."


this says the most. but we can skip it if you don't think it matters
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
is there filler in this area ?
No filler
wiped down each time with W&G remover.
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
"I took some 2000 to the bumps and leaves small round exposed primer."


this says the most. but we can skip it if you don't think it matters
So
Do you think its in the primer?

The top coats were applied at the spray booth 10 miles from the compressor.
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:04 PM
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The bumps follow shapes all over the roof like a map of the world!
Its appeared on top of the front fenders, roof, C pillars, slightly on the hood and nothing on the trunk lid!!
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:33 PM
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Ok, so no body filler so we can eliminate that. I still think it's a trapped solvent issue since it didn't show up till weeks after top coating. You say the primer is intact and the blisters are above the primer. I assume by primer you mean epoxy primer and I hope the epoxy primer is a different color than the high build primer so you can be certain it's not under it.

You will have to be the judge of the problem because you are the only one who know how the finish was applied, how soon between coats, etc. After sanding of the top of one of the blisters look at it with a magnifing glass very carefully. Are you familar with solvent pops and what they look like? Generally solvent pops are associated with Basecoat/clearcoat, but single stage is really only clear with pigment mixed in.

You can repair each pop with an artist brush and a small blob of paint, then block down and buff. I would not use this approach until the car has sat out in the sun for for a couple more weeks to insure no more blisters. If you chose to recoat the entire hood and other areas you still have the craters to fill for a smooth topcoat. I think I would put the car out in the sun for awhile and see what else happens, then decide how to approach the repairs.

Jim
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:07 PM
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Thanks fordsr, The fact that isnt only on horizontal surface should be a clue?
But I think you may be right about trapped solvents, but after 12 weeks?
I did get a few runs on vertical surfaces show maybe where it didnt run on the flat surfaces shows it is thick?
I used a show reducer and hardner at the booth and maybe in the heat of battle I didnt allow enough time between coats?? Its the only thing that makes sense to me, but a could be wrong

Yes epoxy is a different colour and I cant see that in the mix.

Last edited by northiam; 05-21-2008 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:50 PM
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addition

IMHO to find where or when something went wrong you will have to peel back the bubble and see how far down it goes. little blisters turning into a big blister sounds just like solvent pop to me. Unless of course it just delaminating due to slick of a surface. 600 is kinda slick to be priming over.
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