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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 01:03 AM
the youngone
 

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Is this something good? Sealed Power Hypereutectic Flat Top 4 Valve Reliefs Piston +.040 Over | Northern Auto Parts

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 05:16 AM
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Ok But first k try it with this bore .. Anyone tryd a hand hone ?
A "berry bush" type hone would be the best for this situation. Less material removal and a good finish.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:46 AM
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Berry bush

Can you show a pic of it . Is it one by han to do it selve ?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 01:31 PM
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Just google dingleberry hone. They are available at any auto parts store.

Brush Research FLEX-HONE Cylinder Hone, GB Series, Silicon Carbide Abrasive, 3-1/2" (89 mm) Diameter, 240 Grit Size: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Brush Research FLEX-HONE Cylinder Hone, GB Series, Silicon Carbide Abrasive, 3-1/2" (89 mm) Diameter, 240 Grit Size: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 04:45 PM
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Honing

I used thisone . But the scratches and rust is to deep. I think the block has to be bored. Dont u think?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 04:46 PM
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Honing

Result of the honing .. Not. Good i think
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 05:58 PM
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Yes, not good. A scratch would be OK but that cylinder has been run with a bad piston. Many scratches ..I would go to .040.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:04 PM
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Ok. Thnx and better use new connectingrods? I have to Leav the blick for a whike to get some money for it .. Its verry expensive here haha
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:44 AM
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The hone you are usind is a finishing hone ,you need a ball hone (dingleberry ),also to remove ALL rust inside and out side have the block vated in a radiator vat not a standard vat,,different chemicals ,.just be sure to spray it down ,every part inside and out with WD40 (water dispursant 40 ) or it will rust again overnight, my opinion the marks in the cylinderare from running the hone to fast making it chatter or dry ,,I use kerosene or diesel fuel to keep the hone lubricated run it slow go up and down as it turns to leave a cross hatch pattern , ,that seems to work good for me.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2013, 09:50 AM
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But the big scratches . I can feel them. With my hand .
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:49 PM
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then you probably need to have it bored.just would not go past .060.any past that it would need to be sonic tested for wall thickness, most blocks newer than 1970 will not go more than .060.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:58 PM
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Bore

Okay so 0.40is good..?0
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post
"Resist the temptation to buy a digital caliper. Every time you reach for it, the batteries will be dead. A dial caliper is bulletproof. Also resist the temptation to purchase a lesser quality Chinese-made caliper. I have Starrett and Brown & Sharpe tools that I've been using for over 50 years."

Yes,,bbbut how about us old guys that can't see well anymore!!
I carry a Mitto digital so I can see the darned thing. Besides the metric conversion is just a thumb touch away.
I keep a spare battery in my billfold and toolbox...
Is that what made that circle.LOL
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2013, 01:04 PM
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yes if it clears up at .030 or .040 I would stop there ,that will give you an extra rebuild. if not no more than .060
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2013, 01:08 PM
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Its already 0.30 over .. If you read the. Earlier threats. I measured the bore
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