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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2002, 06:06 AM
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Oltimers painted the inside of thier engines with a paint called "glyptal" but I have no idea what the formulation is. I think Eastwood sells it for this purpose. I painted the innerds of my Hemi with plain old red oxide primer and it is still doing fine after 25,000 miles.

Figure on paying in the range of $125 to $150 to powder coat a block and two heads. Call around and the shops will give you a verbal estimate.

Sudo1a is correct, there are differences in powder coaters. Look for the busy guy in your community. The powder has a shelf life and the busy ones can afford to have a lot of colors on the shelf. I have had metallic black (really neat color), chassis black, Chevy orange, dead white, clear, bright lemon yellow, gloss black sprayed and my guy didn't blink an eye. I think his standard powder is polyester and it hasn't shown any signs of deterioration (flaking, burning or yellowing, even on the dead white) on my engines after several years of daily operation.

Also, examine the shop's work. Look for holidays and thin places in their coatings. Some guys cheap out or have bad technique and base metal is showing through. I had one item coated that when I got it home looked like it had some sort of liquid splattered and dried on it. I tried wiping it off with some lacquer thinner and found out the shop did a crappy powder coating job and tried to cover it up by spraying it with touch up spray paint that was just different enough in color that I noticed it. The lacquer thinner melted the paint off and resulted in a terrible looking piece with metal showing thru all over it.

[ October 29, 2002: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2002, 05:34 PM
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I stand corrected Willys. A special hi heat polyester resin powder will stand up even with lighter colors. I sell paint and powder coatings so I called the lab and they told me it can be done. Just always make sure your guy does not use any pretreatment (chromate and phosphate) prior to any hi heat application since it causes instability in the coating. Also I have sold what is called a crank case primer/sealer that is red oxide. Used to sell it to a company that used it inside of gear drives and gear motors they manufactured. Also I was thinking your white motor that yellowed up after being tanked might have been coated with an epoxy and exposure to some chemicals will yellow the epoxy. If you still have the motor, try wiping a little acetone on it and see if that brings back the color.
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Old 10-29-2002, 06:39 PM
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You weren't wrong. Plastic technology (EVERY technology for that matter!) is changing so fast no one can keep up. I'm 10 yrs or so from the end of my career so I can fake it for that long but I don't know how young engineers will ever keep up and stay productive. My powder coating guy sand blasts everything to white metal so it is perfectly clean B4 he coats it. In fact, for what he charges me to coat a frame I would spend almost that much just getting it sandblasted!

Yes, now that you mention it, oil well pumping unit gear boxes are often painted red oxide inside. I have seen some painted what looks like white enamel too!

My white engine was only very slightly yellowed by the hot tank. In fact the only way you could tell is by putting something white directly nest to it. I'm sure a wash down with acetone would shienit up but I am hapy with it as it is and too lazy to do it!
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Old 11-01-2002, 02:25 PM
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First degrease it with some carb cleaner or brake cleaner, works well and evaporates. Use Rust oleum satin, works well and it will repels the oil.
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Old 11-02-2002, 04:07 AM
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Tried to powdercoating my sbc block. I had removed a very large electric stove, huge oven, large enough to fit the block with the bottom shelf to help slid the block in and out, only about 20 min into the process the stove started sparking and blew the breaker. After everything cooled down I found the weight of the block had sprung the shelf and the block and shelf came down on the bottom heating elements and shorted it out. Thought it was a good idea at the time.
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Old 11-02-2002, 08:50 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by tm454:
<strong>Tried to powdercoating my sbc block. I had removed a very large electric stove, huge oven, large enough to fit the block with the bottom shelf to help slid the block in and out, only about 20 min into the process the stove started sparking and blew the breaker. After everything cooled down I found the weight of the block had sprung the shelf and the block and shelf came down on the bottom heating elements and shorted it out. Thought it was a good idea at the time. </strong><hr></blockquote>

Hey I am right there with you! I am always looking for a way to do it myself rather than paying someone else. However I am getting too old and tired I guess because I am somehow happy with letting someone else do my powder coating. It is a combination of needing to keep fresh powder on hand, the nasty job of sandblasting everything to white metal, the need for a specialty oven and spray equipment that tells me 'let someone else do this one!'

Also on the topic of temperature tollerance of powder coating, it just dawned on me. Go to my photo album. There I show a closeup of my hemi intake manifold. The coating on it there is about 2 years old and is still shiny even on the functional exhauxt x-over passage in the middle. This spot is usually discolored and flaking on manifolds painted with hi temp engine paint. Also, note the header mufflers on the side shot of my coupe. I ceramic coat the headers on my cars but powder coat everything else in the exhaust system with great results. Those header mufflers have been in service for 7 years and still clean up like new. No deterioration at all.

Also the 'yellowed' engine is shown in the several chassis shots of the '36 Pontiac chassis. As you can see the color change is imperceptible. The head was not hot tanked but the block was in a dirty tank and took on a VERY faint surface discoloration.

[ November 02, 2002: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>
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