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Old 10-25-2002, 07:40 AM
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Post Block Painting do's and dont's

I have never really painted a block before. I have a 305 SBC that Iam going to use as a dummy block to set set things up. So I decided I would paint it to get some practice. This block hasnt been hot tanked or anything. After a lot of scrubbing and a gallon of purple de-greaser I got it clean enough to paint. Questions I have are:

Can you use to much paint to were it wont cool properly? Seems kinda hard to get the paint to cover the sharp edges and the casting sand ( all the little bumps in the casting). Should I try to smooth it out with the grinder?

Do you paint the block inside the bell housing and the timing cover?

Which is the best spray bomb paint.

Clear coating. Noticed that they sell a engine clearcoat. When is it best to spray it?? After the paint flashes or completely dry.

Powder coating???? Can a block be powder coated?

Thanks for da input!


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Old 10-25-2002, 09:36 AM
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Mav; Funny you should ask! I ALWAYS have my engines powder coated when doing a complete buildup. Cooling by heat transfer from the block and heads is such a small mechanism, it isn't worth worrying about. Powder coating is so good and so cost effective, I wouldn't consider anything else.

IF you decide to paint, I have some experience there too. First, forget using any spray bomb paint. My Chrysler block is painted with the top-of-the-line rattle can engine paint and it is slowly degrading and flaking off (did this B4 I got into powder coating). However, I recently blew a head gasket on the engine and since the heads were off but I didn't want to strip them down for powder coating, I decided to paint them. I used PPG auto paint. First used catalyze red oxide urethane primer, catalyzed urethane color coat (Chevy orange), and catalyzed urethane clear coat. That's been 6 months ago so jury is still out but engine went thru a Bakersfield summer and the finish is still like new, even around exhaust headers. Frankly, it looks as good as the powder coated intake manifold which is the same color. You can see the manifold in the engine close up photo in my photo album. The manifold was ground smooth B4 coating so is very slick but my painted heads still look that good.
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Old 10-25-2002, 02:51 PM
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I've had reasonable results with "PlastiKote" (don't know if that's spelled right) as long as you don't try to paint over grease. I chose it because you can touch up at any time and don't have to wait a week like some other brands.
I've tried the clear on intakes with terrible results.
No, you don't paint the inside of the bellhousing or timing cover.
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Old 10-25-2002, 03:25 PM
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Speaking of clear on intakes reminds me. Clear powder coating on polished aluminum is awsome! Permanent polish w/o the usual touchups with bare aluminum. No yellowing or chipping.
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Old 10-25-2002, 03:29 PM
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i used the por 15 engine painting kit when i did the swap in my duster like five or six years ago. it still looks almost like the day i put it on (well, except for the grease, grime, and spilled gas stains) and its been a daily driver ever since. i love it, and refuse to use anything else.
as far as painting the inside goes, ive seen it in the magazines, but have no infpormation to give you.
mike
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Old 10-25-2002, 04:11 PM
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Por 15 is good too. In fact it is a urethane based product.
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Old 10-28-2002, 10:06 AM
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Hey Willys on powder coating dose it matter if the freeze plugs and cam bearings are already installed?? I think powder coating is the way Iam going to go but my has already been preped by the machine shop and has these installed. Thanks

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Old 10-28-2002, 10:47 AM
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Doesn't matter. Only specifications are it must stand 450F temperatures and must be electrically conductive so powder will attach. I like to coat the block with the freeze plugs out then put in polished brass ones but that is just for looks. Can't have bearings in when they coat. Lead based materials con't like being exposed to the dry heat. No problem though 'cause the coating should go on B4 ANY machine work is done on the engine. Once coated, the finish will stand up to any abuse the machine shop can dish out rolling oyur block around their shop.

Couple of housekeeping tips though; be very specific on which surfaces of your engine should NOT be coated. Don't assume the coaters will know how an engine goes together. They can mask off any surface, just need to know which they are.

The way I do it is 1) take my engine to the machine shop and have it boiled and checked for cracks, etc. 2) take the good core to the coaters and have it coated. 3) since they sand blast it B4 coating, therw will be silica dust all over and inside the engine so have the machine shop boil it out again B4 doing the machine work. 4) when the machine shop is finished and I get it home, I brush out all the passages and nooks and crannies with purple grease cleaner and long burshes then take it to the quarter snatcher and blast it out with detergent then hot water. Blow it dry with compressed air at home and it is ready to assemble.

[ October 28, 2002: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>
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Old 10-28-2002, 11:10 AM
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The Powder Coating makes it through a boilout tank? Im sold!
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Old 10-28-2002, 11:36 AM
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Really! That the plan I was looking for. I havent gotten the block Iam useing but its had all the machinge work done. Guess I can take out the freeze plugs and have it done and get the cam bearings reinstalled. Thanks for the info!
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Old 10-28-2002, 01:53 PM
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Should work fine. The only problem I has with one of my engines is that the second boiling tank was pretty dirty and the bright white powder coating came out slightly off white. When the engine was finished and installed, you caouldn't thell the difference. Still all there and very glossy.
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Old 10-28-2002, 04:19 PM
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Hey Willys, how much should someone expect to pay to have thier motor powder coated?
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Old 10-28-2002, 04:35 PM
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Aa-a-a-a-a-aa-nd as I'm real close to you. Where should I go with my mo-mo?


Please?
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Old 10-28-2002, 06:45 PM
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When I paint an engine I degrease it in like Kero,simple green,that blue stuff from work,what evers handy.Then once its clean I blast it with brakekleen to rinse the film off.Then I paint um chevy orange with plasti-coat(most acurate to factory color) high temp chevy orange.I'm a paint nut the more the merryer(bout 1 1/2 cans on SBC) Let it dry for two days then scratch the paint off puttin it in.
As for painting the lifter valley its supposed to make oil return quicker to the pan,but I personally don't want it flaking off inside my motor.

[ October 28, 2002: Message edited by: 78 monte ]</p>
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Old 10-28-2002, 06:53 PM
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When dealing with any light colored paint (powder included) it will discolor in higher then about 250 degrees. I would try to stay away from lighter colors if possible. Also if it is an epoxy based powder it will naturally yellow in time (not noticible on darker colors). I would be careful taking it to any old powder coater. Generally powder is sold in 50 lb boxes and they might just shoot it with something they have on the shelf that is not hi heat. If they have to order something special for you it could get expensive also (might make you buy the whole box of powder).
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