block prep work - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 01:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united kingdom
Posts: 237
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
block prep work

Hi guys
What do you use to clean old gasket material from the cylinder block when getting ready for dropping new heads on? and when I removed heads some water went into oil ways then into sump,do you recommend changing oil?
thanks in advance?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 01:23 AM
bullheimer's Avatar
NEVER use credit cards!
 

Last journal entry: car with tt2's, (stockers going back on)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: North of Seattle
Posts: 2,532
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
absolutely change the oil before you start it back up... or try to start it back up. water in oil or not. don't cheap out. n any scraper will work, or single edge razor blade, esp in a blade holder avail at parts store. wipe with thinner or something first. good luck on this....first engine build? just don't dig the edges of your scraper into the block, keep it square to it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 01:31 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united kingdom
Posts: 237
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for that! good info,I built the engine last year the block was already cleaned im just upgrading to aluminium heads,I need more power now!
Dave
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 02:11 AM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 8,639
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 364
Thanked 857 Times in 819 Posts
after you run the new heads for a day,change the oil again and do a nut and bolt check
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:55 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,284
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 399 Times in 393 Posts
For next time you remove the intake manifold or a cylinder head, first pump out the water from the engine water jackets using a windshield washer pump and some windshield washer hose.
remove the heater hose from the manifold and stick the WWpump hose down the heater hose nipple. it will go down into the cylinder head water jacket. Pump it into a bucket or jug.
Pump out enough water/coolant to get the level below the level of the decks of the block.
Now you won't spill water/coolant down in the oil pan when removing the heads.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 07:55 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Age: 29
Posts: 9,476
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 385 Times in 361 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
For next time you remove the intake manifold or a cylinder head, first pump out the water from the engine water jackets using a windshield washer pump and some windshield washer hose.
remove the heater hose from the manifold and stick the WWpump hose down the heater hose nipple. it will go down into the cylinder head water jacket. Pump it into a bucket or jug.
Pump out enough water/coolant to get the level below the level of the decks of the block.
Now you won't spill water/coolant down in the oil pan when removing the heads.
Or just drain the system using the petcock on the radiator...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 07:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 705
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 75 Times in 75 Posts
A little less "effort" to accomplish the same thing Lynn (LATECH) is talking about... remove the 1/4 NPT plugs on both sides of the block near the pan "rails". This will drain the coolant from the block entirely. They generally have a 9/16" "head".

Some "buddies" may suggest using a ScotchBrite pad on a right-angle grinder to remove the gasket material. DO NOT DO IT!!! The flat scraper is the best way. Follow it up with a light "dusting" with a medium or coarse wire wheel (cup). Many line mechanics use the ScotchBrite stuff. We ineveitably have to mill an "extra" .005" off a head due to the rounded edges and uneven "plane" they leave behind. If you see a "spark" fly off, it isn't ScotchBrite. It's iron... They do even more unapparent damage to aluminum.

Jim
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 07:58 AM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,658
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 60 Times in 57 Posts
I use a drill with a wire brush to clean the surfaces. When I'm doing the heads I lay a rag into the intake valley to keep the junk out of the crank case.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 09:51 AM
Silver Surfer's Avatar
More machine than man
 

Last journal entry: bwaahhaahahaaahhaa
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 37
Posts: 816
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 100
Thanked 63 Times in 53 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body View Post
A little less "effort" to accomplish the same thing Lynn (LATECH) is talking about... remove the 1/4 NPT plugs on both sides of the block near the pan "rails". This will drain the coolant from the block entirely. They generally have a 9/16" "head".
Slight thread hi-jack...
How do you remove these? Mine are stuck and when I tried to remove them the head started rounding off. When I had the machine shop rebuild the shortblock I asked them to replace them, but they 'forgot'. My father in law says the old trick is to replace the bolts with a marine style drain petcock so you never had to unscrew them again (not sure what do to on the road if they start leaking though).
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:07 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united kingdom
Posts: 237
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did try to undo the bolts near the pan rail as well,they were siezed solid! I also drained bottom of radiator suggested by AP72 but it only drains just above water pump holes! So I knock a core plug in(just under heads) to drain the water.

I was going to use a wire brush on a drill but worried about one of the strands coming out and getting in the motor.

Thanks for everyone ideas!

How can I get core plug out of the water jacket it fell in and down!
Can I leave it in there? I was rushing again not thinking!

Last edited by dave350v8; 08-10-2012 at 11:13 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:29 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Age: 29
Posts: 9,476
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 385 Times in 361 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave350v8 View Post
I did try to undo the bolts near the pan rail as well,they were siezed solid! I also drained bottom of radiator suggested by AP72 but it only drains just above water pump holes! So I knock a core plug in(just under heads) to drain the water.

I was going to use a wire brush on a drill but worried about one of the strands coming out and getting in the motor.

Thanks for everyone ideas!

How can I get core plug out of the water jacket it fell in and down!
Can I leave it in there? I was rushing again not thinking!
With the block dissassembled you can take a pick and try to move the plug to a location you can access it... thankfully I've never hit a frost plug into the block.

You can try to run it with the plug in there but anticipate cooling probems.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:36 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united kingdom
Posts: 237
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I drifted plug into block so I could drain water.
Ive always drifted them in before and used grips to "twist them out"
Do you think it will cause overheating problems then?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 12:46 PM
68NovaSS's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Working with chromed bolts
Last journal entry: New to me T-Bucket
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nine Mile Falls/Suncrest, WA
Posts: 5,284
Wiki Edits: 9

Thanks: 113
Thanked 139 Times in 130 Posts
Well, not if you removed them...
__________________
Boost adds dignity to what would otherwise be a vulgar brawl...

Midnight Sun Street Rod Association
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2012, 05:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united kingdom
Posts: 237
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
For next time you remove the intake manifold or a cylinder head, first pump out the water from the engine water jackets using a windshield washer pump and some windshield washer hose.
remove the heater hose from the manifold and stick the WWpump hose down the heater hose nipple. it will go down into the cylinder head water jacket. Pump it into a bucket or jug.
Pump out enough water/coolant to get the level below the level of the decks of the block.
Now you won't spill water/coolant down in the oil pan when removing the heads.
Really good idea,will use that next motor I build!
Thanks everyone for your ideas!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
interior prep work S10xGN Interior 1 04-11-2006 09:20 PM
prep work joeguz Body - Exterior 2 04-27-2005 09:34 PM
John Deere BB prep work... Fatal_charm Body - Exterior 5 09-26-2004 09:13 PM
prep work for new paint camino_man Body - Exterior 1 01-04-2004 08:16 AM
prep work for powder coating mike bryan Body - Exterior 11 05-15-2003 04:17 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.