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Old 12-06-2005, 02:56 PM
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Block sanding

I want to do some block sanding on my panels this winter to make sure they are perfectly straight. In order to put on a 'tint' coat over the primer so i am able to see the high and low spots, can i just mix some black paint with my primer? Or can you buy tinted primers or colouring that you add to the primer?
Or am i just thinking all wrong
I need help

Thanx
Mikey

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Old 12-06-2005, 03:03 PM
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all you have to do is use a spray bomb (if you useing grey pimer use black bomb)with a good spray pattern everyone I know usually goes for the elcheapo spray bomb .
Just hold it back an use a light dusting let flash and block
and it should show everything 1 can should go a long way

good luck

SR66

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Old 12-06-2005, 05:29 PM
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Tinted primer is going to be a bit expensive for highlighting. Use a cheap black lacquer spray rattle can, or purchase the 3M kit for about $35 that will do five or six cars. It uses a graphite like powder that will not clog your sandpaper like some rattle can paints will. Also give a look to a product called "Durablock" sanding blocks. This is just but one firm that sells them

http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/subcat.php?man_id=36

Vince
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Old 12-06-2005, 06:57 PM
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I had previously tried rattle can paint for highlighting, and that's exactly what i found, that it tends to clog up the sandpaper rapidly. Maybe primer in a can would clog less compared to paint?

Mikey
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:06 PM
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Yes I've done that before, picked up a spray bomb of black lacquer primer. Shouldn't have problems using the spray bomb if you sand it off. There is always a chance when painting over a cheap spray bomb lacquer product it could cause a problem if you still see some black (or whatever your guide coat color is), but in years of doing it, I haven't run into any yet. That 3m dry coat works good too, but I am too much of a cheapskate to get it usually.
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:46 PM
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ive been told that flat black rattle can does not gum up the paper as bad but i have not gotten that far yet.
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Old 12-06-2005, 09:42 PM
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Any lacquer based spray bomb will work. Don't use an enamel, it'll just clog up the paper. Most paintstores offer guidecoat in a spraycan if you want a product designed specifically for the job. Lacquer primers also work really well and the budget gallon cans for $30ish dollars is your most economical if you're using a lot of guidecoat they last for a very long time.
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Old 12-07-2005, 04:05 AM
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What I have found for guide coating is that if you put too much spray bomb on there, it will clog up the paper. The idea is to only "mist coat" it, not "paint" it. You only need enough so you know it is there, and gone when you finish sanding.

Aaron
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Old 12-07-2005, 06:21 AM
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The trick is to not use enamel , only lacquer. The enamel will form little balls of paint on your sandpaper that will gouge the surface as you sand.

Vince
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:43 PM
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I tried the el cheap o Canadian tire flat black primer Clogged paper then I tried the more expensive body shop spray bomb of primer Clogged the paper. Finally used the stuff from the body shop supply store that says guide coat on the spray bomb. Worked perfect and only cost 7$ for the spay bomb. I used two to do the entire car.

Ric
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Old 12-07-2005, 02:54 PM
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I use a tintable primer, as it helps the covering power of the base, so I throw a bit of black (or other contrasting colour) in with it once I've done my last coat, and mist on a guide coat.
Sands down uniformly, and doesn't clog the paper.

For 're-guidecoating' (when changing grit etc.) I've found the dry powder stuff the best. Might seem a little expensive, but it never seems to run out!
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Old 12-14-2005, 09:45 PM
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I've been block sanding since 1971

I use DYKEM spraycan metal Dye. Buy it at Welding supply stores. It comes in red or dark blue. Spray it on a paper towel and wipe it on your primer. Use soapy water to lube. your paper. Good on bare metal too when metalfinishing.
The powder guide coat will usually wash off with soapy water.
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