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Old 05-04-2013, 12:58 AM
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block sanding primer with p400?

hey fellas so I'm shooting the cab on this truck it was white&going back to white.I had to do a bit of bodywork shot it with summits 2k urethane primer&went to get my set up ready for when I go to block sand I was sure I had 600..but nope everything but&the only thing I have that's close is summits p400 can I block sand with that or will it leave scratch marks?If not I'm gonna wear my arms off using 1000

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Old 05-04-2013, 07:39 AM
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if you're blocking with something higher than 220 it's kind of defeating the point. There's a 400/600 thread two threads below this where you would have got all kinds of answers.
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:44 AM
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You wont need 600... 400 wet is fine for preping for paint even if you're not using a sealer..however if your primer needs a lot of blocking to be straight you probably should block with 180 first,prime again THEN 400 it....if the body work is done well we can go straight to 400 wet and skip all that extra blocking of primer...but thats not usually the case, thats the whole reason they make high build 2k primers (getting the filler work straight).
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
You wont need 600... 400 wet is fine for preping for paint even if you're not using a sealer..however if your primer needs a lot of blocking to be straight you probably should block with 180 first,prime again THEN 400 it....if the body work is done well we can go straight to 400 wet and skip all that extra blocking of primer...but thats not usually the case, thats the whole reason they make high build 2k primers (getting the filler work straight).
Thanks..it' really dosnt build too great I went ahead&bought the spi black epoxy which is what Ill be using in the future.I just have 2 gallons of this stuff I'm trying to use up.Idk what happend but it use to fill rather well the stuff I've gotten from them lately dosnt even seem like the same product.It really dosnt need much sanding just needs smoothed &abraided(hope that's the right word ) anyways so I was hoping that I could just clean it up with the 400 but if it needs to be wet I can do that.
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:10 AM
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isnt the p-400 a wet sand paper? if not you can dry sand it or even DA it with 320 and go right to paint...being that its white I;ll assume its a SS paint which is much better at filling scratches so theres no worries at all ...BTW ,that SPI black epoxy is about the best primer out there, I've been using it for years...I dont use much 2k at all these days...
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:34 PM
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p400 is wet or dry
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
p400 is wet or dry

p400 is a grit measurement, it has nothing to do with wet or dry.

The type of paper and the bonding agent will determine if it is a dry only or a wet or dry paper.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:26 AM
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Yeah ,they say wet or dry but if you ever dry sanded with "wet or dry" paper you'd know it only works well wet.
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:02 PM
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Yeah ,they say wet or dry but if you ever dry sanded with "wet or dry" paper you'd know it only works well wet.
+1
What he said ^
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:22 AM
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Heres something else that might help....I just happen to be blocking right now also and I have a helper doing some wet sanding with 400 ,I noticed he was taking a long time sanding but every time I looked over he was hard at it and not screwing off so kept an eye on him and spotted the problem,he wasnt changing the paper...I explained that the 400 wont stay 400 very long so change the paper as soon as it starts cutting slower and that dont take long.
For a average mid size hood it takes two full sheets, each full sheet gives you three sheets when you cut it for the block so that means you change the paper six times minimum to do a regular ole hood .Thats sanding the SPI epoxy .other primers will wear out your paper at different rates...change the paper often, paper is cheap compared to labor...
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:42 AM
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The quality of your paper will dictate how often you
need to change it. A high quality paper can go twice as far
as some cheap papers.
The cheap papers are more expensive in the long run.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcclark View Post
The quality of your paper will dictate how often you
need to change it. A high quality paper can go twice as far
as some cheap papers.
The cheap papers are more expensive in the long run.
Thats also very true the overall cost savings is very little compared to what the extra labor is my wet paper is usually 3-m ,as much as I hate them being another greed based company they do have a good product....
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:18 AM
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Boy are you guys right! When I was a rep we pointed out that it doesn't make much sense to use cheap sand paper that amounts to about 3% of your material costs yet EFFECTS about 30&% of your labor!

Use QUALITY, SHARP, NEW paper to CUT not to "polish" the primer or paint before the next application. This goes for cutting and buffing too. Over using paper and God forbid cheap paper gets you nowhere fast!

Brian
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:48 AM
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when you get to blocking with 400 and you find it needs a LOT of blocking to get the guide coat off going back to 320 (wet) is tuff to do but believe me it'll save a ton of time backing up a little 320 blocks MUCH faster than 400 but you'll have to prime one more time 320 is a little rough for paint...I dont know why but 320 on the DA is perfect to paint over but you cant block with a DA..
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