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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 08:04 AM
put up or shut up
 

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wouldn't be a bad idea to grind down to metal smack dab in the middle of the damage and maybe somewhere low where guys try to get away with hacky prepping. you will find out how thick the filler is, how it sticks, how the paint sticks where guys like to cut corners, how many layers of paint are under, and surface rust. I'd also ask why your friend recommended 320. Maybe it's not bad? Martin also made a great comment on how the painter who actually seen this in person should be the guy you lean on cause none of us seen it at all, but then again a painter is a painter and a body man is a body man.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 08:15 AM
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Thanks for all the great idea's

I never expected so many idea's on the correct way of preparing the truck for paint.

Please keep in mind this is a daily driver and not anything going to a car show.

When I had the base / coat clear paint job about four or five years ago it was done by a friend who owns his own body and paint shop and when he found I was interested in having the van painted he told me he had one gallon of Matrix metallic in a deep red color left from another paint job.

He sprayed the van for $1,200 but now the clear coat on the roof area is lifting in spots so I thought I would get the van ready and then find someone to shoot it but this time using a single stage urethane.

There are no dents anywhere on the truck and also no rotten areas.

I have a few small things from parking lots and that is about it.

Thanks for all the advice and I will make sure to use a tinted sealer first this time on the entire truck.

For an 1986 van it looks in excellent condition!!!!!

I will post pictures once the project is complete.

Jimbo
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 08:28 AM
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Clear "lifting", what exactly do you mean? If the clear is "peeling" off, that is a sure sign of a need to REMOVE that clear. Now, striping the clear off is a HUGE ordeal and one I don't believe is needed on a driver. But leaving it there is a gamble of sorts, if you feather it out where it is peeling and it does start to feather meaning it is adhering good, feather it out and seal over it. Again, this is a big gamble as the clear that appears to be holding on well today could fail on you down the road. And that is the gamble, leaving that clear is a gamble.

If just the roof is peeling, it could be to simple poor prep and with all the body lines up on the roof of a van it's easy to imagine that it was prepped poorly. So stripping it may be a thought. Sanding it all off getting down to paint or primer that is holding well (likely the original) is the best way to go at a minimum.

It sounds like this is what your friend is talking about when you talked of "priming" the whole thing. You see how asking these questions of people who can't see your van can get a wide variety of suggestions!

I think getting more educated on a forum is a good thing to understand other methods and why are you are doing what you are doing, but it still comes down to listening to the guy who does this for a living who is helping you. He could be a mile off so asking advice is good, don't get me wrong.

But it's SOOOOOO hard when we aren't there to see what you are talking about.
Posting some photos would help a lot.


Brian
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 09:13 AM
put up or shut up
 

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the other day we got a job where I had to clean up a roll pan and some other guy's welding. The customer mentioned warpage on the liftgate. To me that was a red flag. If it was thinner newer metal and the customer noted it than it must be REALLY bad. Turned out it was so warped the warpage JUMPED the body lines and altered them.

The same thing can be said for bodywork. If an inexperienced guy can see the bad bodywork it must be REALLY bad. Most of the time the stuff I find and deal with are things that people wouldn't even notice so my thoughts are that if a guy not in the trade can see something it's probably much more work for the guy fixing it than some may expect.
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