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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 12:26 PM
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The blown 383 took 30 minutes at 3000 RPM to quit smoking. But it was not pouring oil out of the tail pipes either, just lot's of smoke.

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  #167 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 12:32 PM
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i'm gonna go for a scenic back road tour this afternoon to help speed things up....
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 12:53 PM
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The reason I ran it at 3000 RPM was to get the exhaust as hot as possible, to burn that oil out of there. Once in a great while, it will put out a little blue smoke, on a hot start-up only. Makes me think of 'valve seals', but it is not a daily driver, and as of yesterday, it has not even been started up in 3 weeks.

Plus at 9 bucks a gallon for 112 octane VP fuel you don't want to just run it at 'will'. It mostly just gets driven to car shows anyways.
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
The reason I ran it at 3000 RPM was to get the exhaust as hot as possible, to burn that oil out of there. Once in a great while, it will put out a little blue smoke, on a hot start-up only. Makes me think of 'valve seals', but it is not a daily driver, and as of yesterday, it has not even been started up in 3 weeks.

Plus at 9 bucks a gallon for 112 octane VP fuel you don't want to just run it at 'will'. It mostly just gets driven to car shows anyways.
Your story has touched my heart. I can't stand for you to be tortured any more by those greedy Arab bastards, paying $9 per gallon for gas. Therefore, I am coming over to your house to pick up your car and replace it with a '81 VW diesel that runs on french fry oil.(That you can pick up free at any McDee's) You can run this little mother at "will" and give 'er all she's got, going to any car show you want. In fact,take some pictures of your car this afternoon and post them at the next show you go to. You don't have to thank me for doing this for you, just put the pink in the glove compartment.
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1
Your story has touched my heart. I can't stand for you to be tortured any more by those greedy Arab bastards, paying $9 per gallon for gas. Therefore, I am coming over to your house to pick up your car and replace it with a '81 VW diesel that runs on french fry oil.(That you can pick up free at any McDee's) You can run this little mother at "will" and give 'er all she's got, going to any car show you want. In fact,take some pictures of your car this afternoon and post them at the next show you go to. You don't have to thank me for doing this for you, just put the pink in the glove compartment.
HA HA HA HA "fat" chance. It's not for sale or trade! LOL
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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
HA HA HA HA "fat" chance. It's not for sale or trade! LOL
....but its for your own good. You'll appreciate it more tomorrow night when this little french fry buggy is parked in your garage. Now, rest, grasshopper.
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1
....but its for your own good. You'll appreciate it more tomorrow night when this little french fry buggy is parked in your garage. Now, rest, grasshopper.
Get this; The dyno shop aborted the test, claiming it had smoke coming out of the tail pipes. It turned out to be tire smoke I think they saw a 'cash cow'. NOT.

That wording on the hood, is Screaming Yellow Zonker, and it is just that.

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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 04:03 PM
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Maybe Luis has the same problem, its not oil; its tire smoke. He said that it was really responsive today. You think!
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  #174 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1
Maybe Luis has the same problem, its not oil; its tire smoke. He said that it was really responsive today. You think!
Now that you mention that, maybe it is. But his does'nt have the compression this one has, at 170 per hole. Which is actually about 30 PSI too much for a blown engine. This is why the 112 VP fuel.
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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 04:57 PM
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Well I took the car out for another spin. Drove about 10 miles round trip. The whole time it was smoking

Obviously oil is still being dumped into the exhaust valve some how. I was about to pull the header off to inspect it, but I already know its gonna be the same thing....

I pulled the PCV hose and noticed there was oil in there. The inside of the hose was very "wet".

Q: Should there be any traces of "oil" in the PCV hose? or should it be absolutely bone dry?


I'm gonna rig up an oil catch can to test how much oil is getting past the PCV valve. Guess it wouldn't hurt...

I'm beginning to think that it's a valve guide or seal issue at this point...
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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 05:24 PM
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....or the intake gasket is bad too....
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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 06:11 PM
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Is there a filter in the other valve cover? The filter acts as a restrictor, and without it, too much vacuum results in pulled in oil. No the line should not be excessively wet with oil. I would keep driving it doing the standard break in procedure. As the synthetic oil changed some things while it was ran. Make sure you run it up to 55 mph, then let off the accelerator and go back down a gear and let it slow the car down, do this many times, this will greatly aide in faster break in times. When my friend made the same mistake you made with synthetic oil it took a long time to break it in there after, even with regular oil. If it still smokes I would look elsewhere. Check your vacuum with a gauge, if the needle bounces it likely has a intake gasket leak. Pull the carb, if there is oil in the plenum under the carb there`s no doubt it`s got a vacuum leak at the gasket.
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 10:41 PM
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Luis,

3. Do not connect your pcv hose but plug it off either at the base of carb or at the valve cover.

If you re-read my email, I said to pull off and plug the pcv hose and run the engine. The reason being, to take the pcv out of the problem. The run test was only for the guide and seal. We want to isolate it to its simplest form and then add one component at a time.

If oil was present, I would have suggested removing the vacuum line from the transmission modulator valve. The reason being was you can not determine what type of oil is being drawn through the engine and burnt.

At this point, we would have these facts:

A. If the test had shown that oil wasn't present in the valve port and exhaust, then I would have said to hook up the pcv line. In doing so, I would have made the suggestion that you put a piece of furnace filter (synthetic weave) in the baffle box on the valve cover to reduce some of the direct vacuum pull into the base of the carb.

B. If oil was present, it would have to be the guide and seal in that cylinder.

Where do you want to go from here? Your 10 mile drive means your back to square one, still burning oil.
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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 10:41 PM
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Hey Luis, Sorry to hear that it's still smoking. I've been tryin' to quit for a long time myself, but I think your engine stands a better chance than I!
Anyways, you might consider keeping VERY close tabs on the level shown on the dipstick, to get some idea of the rate of consumption. It still may very well be that (due to the prior synthetic oil usage) the rings just haven't "set" yet. As one of the other members mentioned, it's entirely possible that this may have "slowed-down" the break-in process. From what built up in the entire exhaust system over time, it may take awhile to get it all burnt and blown out of there.
If you determine before long that you've got an intake leak, (causing some oil to get sucked out of the liftervalley before it gets routed back down the return passages), then obviously it will need correcting, but that should be easily within your skill level and budget. Even if there's (possibly) somewhat of a machining mismatch causing it, there's plenty of people on here whom can direct you on the different means of repair-some of which has already been discussed.
So hang in there man; you'll get this thing figured out! For now; Drive it like you stole it (and you're trying to get away) . Keep close tabs on the oil level and inspect the sparkplugs frequently. Good luck and keep everyone advised if it (consumption) increase/decreases. -Jim
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  #180 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 10:55 PM
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As an interest to others that are following this post and learning by what is contained in it, I am offering to those the same writeup that I offered to Luis last week in a PM to him. The reason for the pm was to offer him a way to test out a different theory to resolve his problem. Please find attached this pm.


Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1
Luis,

What you want to do with that #2 exhaust valve is the following:

1. Get a bright light and a mirror, shine the light in to the exhaust port while looking through the mirror, have your wife turn over the engine in short cycles so that you can see the valve rise and fall. What you are looking for is, the stem of the valve; towards the top it should be clean and shinny as it progresses down ward the accumulation of carbon and coke should become more pronounced until it reaches the base of the valve. The inside of the valve port is probably very oily with a burn patch running through it.

You can clean the valve stem and base, as well as the port out by using carb cleaner, or SeaFoam Creep oil. Both of these products are used for cleaning carbon out. Use a old tooth brush to work away at the stubborn parts and wash down with more spray. Do this with the valve closed and wipe out any residue with a tight weave shop rag. When the port is clean, crank the engine to open the valve a spray a bit more to loosen the carbon on the lip of the valve and the sealing surface of the head. If you have an air supply, give it a good blowing out. Now you have that exhaust port completely clean.

2. Clean out the other 7 ports with just spray and a clean shop rag to remove any carbon or burnt fuel traces.

3. Do not connect your pcv hose but plug it off either at the base of carb or at the valve cover.

4. Change your oil and filter if you want to. It sounds like you want to get that synthetic out anyways. Clean your plugs with a small brass brush.

5. Bolt up your exhaust manifolds.

Now you should have a clean engine ready to test run. Start up the engine and run it up to full temperature, noting your oil pressure from cold to operating temperature. I would run it at least 1/2 hour to 1 hour. Vary the rpm's from idle to 3000 rpms but don't boot it down hard.

What you want to watch is this:

1. The rear exhaust pipe and when it starts to smoke, if it does at all.

2. The header at the #2 exhaust port and when it does start to smoke, if any.

3. The open grommet on the valve cover. Look for vapor trickling out like an old log cabin chimney smoke, or a sudden cloud upon de-acceleration from varying the throttle. Blow-by usually occurs at that point where crankcase pressure builds up. (If you read those posts that I sent you, you would know that.)

4. After your run up is complete. As quick as you can pull the right side headers off the engine. They will be hot, but with gloves and using caution you can get them off. Get that light and mirror out again and check #2 for oil traces. As the engine is cooling down, wait patiently for an oil to trickle down the valve stem, if at all. Check the other ports as well to see what they look like.

In conclusion, what you will find out is this; you took a clean ported engine with no oil leaks, ran it up to operating temperature, held it there for a period of 1/2 hour, noted any exhaust or manifold oil leaking or burning, shut it down, let it cool down and noted any oil leaking from any valve seal or guide, and you totally isolated any oil baffle problem that was occuring before.

If the oil started to burn immediately upon start up, that was likely old residue. If it started burning before operating temperature, possible ring problem. If it didn't show a oil burning signs while running, but upon shut down and header removal, you found oil on the valve stem, then you have a guide problem and if it was a lot of oil present, a seal problem. If the oil leaked down after cool down, definite seals and guide problem. But you report it out as you see it.

Good luck with your testing.

CU ED (alittle1)
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