Blow By on a fresh rebuild. Possible ?? PLEASE HELP. Pics inside - Page 6 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #76 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:24 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lakeside, CA
Age: 57
Posts: 2,855
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
I was testing sin7......

Good call I forgot about that.

Does the rest of my post sound reasonable? To me, although the unbaffled PVC is creating an oil burning problem, it's sounding like something the machine shop might have done, especially if it's found that the guides were too loose, (or a smidge too tight), it's hard to tell that though, without knowing how many miles since the rebuild, and what kind of assembly lube was used,(did the bores get dry after sitting for 2 years?).


He said it ran good, but how much driving was done on the open headers..I know that long tubes are usually no prob, but shorties could let cold air back up the header, and mess with an exhaust valve..He said the prob started when the exhaust and valve covers got put on, was that a short time into it's life, or was the motor run a bunch before with no problems.


The second part of the compression test will reveal alot.


You are way better at the motor stuff than me, I'm just tossing the things I'd think of out there.


Mikey
I agree with you on all of these things, those are very good possibilities, The compression readigs are low, but we don't know if it has run long enough to seat them yet. If the compression comes up by 25-35 psi after putting oil in, then we will know.

Years ago I found a cracked baffle in a 302 Ford, that was blowing oil. Then remembering that was how I thought about using clear plastic hose to help diagnose this problem. Then finding the same problem on this blown 383, my first thought was no baffles. After pulling one valve cover, I decided to install a set of tall valve covers. After running it for 30 minutes it quit smoking. The engine builder had spent 2 years trying to get it to stop, I had it fixed in less than 4 hours. So this is why I always list this as a possibility.

Stephen

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #77 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:30 PM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
JD brown and alittle1 list some really good possibilities and good clues to a diagnosis also.


Mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #78 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:33 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lakeside, CA
Age: 57
Posts: 2,855
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Yes they did.......
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #79 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:40 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Wiring diagram 1953 Chevrolet
Last journal entry: Spare Tire Dent Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: a little S/E of Nome
Posts: 789
Wiki Edits: 647

Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sin7
Inside of the valve cover:


The other 3 exhaust ports. They look good and dry. Looks like they're burning right:

The photos that I looked at in Post # 41 show 3 fairly dry ports. In post # 42, it shows an exhaust port with oil oozing out of it. Do you honestly think that a PCV without a baffle is just picking #2 cylinder to blow oil through!!!

If the oil was being picked up in the valve cover and sent down the hose to the base of the carb and then being injected into the intake plenum to be returned into the engine, DO YOU NOT THINK 'ALL' CYLINDERS WOULD SHOW OIL AND BURNING OF OIL????
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #80 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:56 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Wiring diagram 1953 Chevrolet
Last journal entry: Spare Tire Dent Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: a little S/E of Nome
Posts: 789
Wiki Edits: 647

Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sin7
This is what the #2 port looks like



Here's Post #42. That port and valve has more crud on it from burnt oil then BK's bar-b-que had all last year.

There is also appears to be a light fluffiness of burnt oil on the other 3 ports, but I haven't taken the liberty to run my fingers in it and determine that, maybe Sin7 can do that for us and report back. I would imagine that he's not to happy right now and will spend some time digesting all this info tonight.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #81 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:56 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lakeside, CA
Age: 57
Posts: 2,855
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
It should be visible in more than one cylinder. The photo of #2 cylinder shows the valve stem and upper area of the exhaust port being soaking wet with oil. When you look at the head of the valve, it looks dry. This is why I mentioned the valve guide, and or valve seal.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #82 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 11:00 PM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1
The photos that I looked at in Post # 41 show 3 fairly dry ports. In post # 42, it shows an exhaust port with oil oozing out of it. Do you honestly think that a PCV without a baffle is just picking #2 cylinder to blow oil through!!!

If the oil was being picked up in the valve cover and sent down the hose to the base of the carb and then being injected into the intake plenum to be returned into the engine, DO YOU NOT THINK 'ALL' CYLINDERS WOULD SHOW OIL AND BURNING OF OIL????
You are yelling at someone like they are missing your point...Why don't you go back and read the post # 11 that explains that exact scenario.


Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #83 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 11:00 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Wiring diagram 1953 Chevrolet
Last journal entry: Spare Tire Dent Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: a little S/E of Nome
Posts: 789
Wiki Edits: 647

Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
It should be visible in more than one cylinder. The photo of #2 cylinder shows the valve stem and upper area of the exhaust port being soaking wet with oil. When you look at the head of the valve, it looks dry. This is why I mentioned the valve guide, and or valve seal.
...and you would be correct, look at the valve guide!

Stem wet, head dry. Oil comes down stem, fire comes up from combustion chamber and burns off residue.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #84 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 11:03 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Wiring diagram 1953 Chevrolet
Last journal entry: Spare Tire Dent Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: a little S/E of Nome
Posts: 789
Wiki Edits: 647

Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
You are yelling at someone like they are missing your point...Why don't you go back and read the post # 11 that explains that exact scenario.


Later, mikey
Mikey, wasn't yelling just getting my point across.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #85 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 11:15 PM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1
Mikey, wasn't yelling just getting my point across.




It's getting very easy to see that the PVC sucking oil is a secondary issue.

All of this will be a good learning experience for the OP, (I'm learning a few things too...(wet stem, dry head it's the little things that tell a big story), when he goes through his diagnosis and test process, and sees where the problem is, and sees the other signs that confirm the test results, he'll be absolutely sure of the reason why he's got to yank the heads. ( I usually bold words to make them stand out, before I start yelling... )



later,
Mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #86 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 11:17 PM
j.d.brown.042964's Avatar
406 Caprice:Rust Never Sleeps!
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St.Clair County,Alabama.
Age: 50
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I, personally, never meant to imply that the baffle issue was a fix-all for this issue, as obviously #2 Exh. is oily, but irregardless- still should be corrected nonetheless. Secondly; the other points are still valid questions. Lets say he finds a bad stemseal on #2 exh. and replaces it. While it might fix the most obvious of issues that is readily visible, is that any assurance that the rings have seated properly yet?(since we don't know if this engine has 15 miles or 1500 on it yet.) Certainly the obvious issues should be addressed first, but personally- I'm still curious of the other questions, as it's difficult to ascertain wether or not there may be other lesser, and stealthier issues lurking ...(or not). If it was broken-in on full synthetic oil you could conceivably fix the most obvious (#2 exh) issue and STILL end up with an engine that never properly seats the rings and will have some level of consumption PERMANENTLY. Not trying to be combative or anything like that, I just wonder about those "other points", as they could be of importance, along with other issues raised such as the engine having sat for 2 years, etcetera. Hope I didn't offend anyone, but I am just trying to look at the "big picture". -Jim
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #87 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 06:54 AM
Sin7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas
Posts: 191
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
WHOA !... info overload....

I read everyones comments and I'll try to answer them all to give you guys a background on the motor.

As stated in my first post, the engine was bought back in November 06' from a local reputable builder. Older gentleman (early 50's), very nice neighborhood, very professional and had a garage with two beatiful cars. Just throwing that info out there to give some idea of the type of person I bought the motor from. Anyhow, when I got to his house, the motor was sitting on a run stand. He immediately fired it up, and it ran for about 15 min....never once smoked and it sounded strong... I'm trying to think back on it and I dont recall if we ever discussed it being "broken in yet". All I know is that he had rebuilt it. To what extent I am not sure. Idle and oil pressure was great while on the run stand... So I bought it and loaded it up....

The motor sat on an covered engine stand in my garage for a little over a year. Back in Jan/Feb of this year, I decided to paint the entire block. I removed the carb, valve covers, oil pan and headers. I am 100% sure the exhaust ports were all good.....

Anyhow, shortly after installing the motor into my impala, i had timing issues. For a week straight I messed with it and I just couldn't get it to start. Finally a friend came by and we were able to find TDC and the car fired right up !...

The car was driven up and down my alley and around my street for a total of maybe 9 times. I kept it to a minimum because my neighbors weren't too happy with the noise of open headers. In this short drive time i think it might have accumulated to a mile....

About a month ago I saved up enough money to get the full exhaust done. As happy as I was I remember spending a few hours "detailing" the engine. I cleaned every nook and cranny. Never once was there any oil coming from the exhaust ports....NOTE: This is when I installed the Elite Series valve covers....

So the next day I drove the car with open headers a mile down the road to the muffler shop. Only to find out the guy that was gonna do the work had called in sick. So I had to drive back home. Two days later I take the car back and get the exhaust put on. The next day I drove to a car wash half a mile from my house and when I came back home this is when I first noticed any indication of oil exiting somewhere. When I opened the hood, I noticed there was oil splatter on my firewall near the heater box cover. I figured it might have been coming from the PCV valve so I simply made sure it was snug and didn't think twice about it....

A few days later is when I finally drove the car on its maiden voyage. I drove it to work for the first time. The trip itself is about 9 miles on city streets each direction. Total drive time about 35 minutes in traffic ranging from 30-40 mph. Car ran really well. One my way home though, it was a little different. Car still ran just as reponsive but i remember that at one stop light, the smoke started filling up all around me....The smell had a very high gas concentration.

That same day I created a post entitled "light blue smoke".... I thought i was running too rich. So I fiddled with the mixture screws. It didnt make any improvements though....

Well this past friday I brought the car to work again despite the light smoke.... It was this past sunday that I noticed the wet oil from the exhaust pipe...

And here we are today.....



JD Brown asked about the use of synthetic oil. And the honest answer to that is... I figured it was the right move. In my head I figured, well i might as well use the "best stuff". So i dropped in some 5w30 synthetic oil in it after the motor was installed...... There really was no logical reason behind the use of synthetic.....


I hope I have shed a bit more light into the background of the motor....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #88 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 07:10 AM
Sin7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas
Posts: 191
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yesterday while I was doing the compression test, I inspected the exhaust manifold gasket and it was not torn. Therefore I'm assuming its leaking from there because of the high amount of oil. I dont think the gasket is made to block liquids.... lol...

So two areas that do need my attention are:
-Baffle issue
-Pinpoint where the oil is coming from (HOT ITEM)

Speaking of which.... Could it be a valve stem seal? I am interested in knowing why the valve itself is dry at the base, but very gunky at the top? The spark plug itself is dry despite the caked up oil on the port. Could this possibly eliminate a ring issue ?....

As for the compression test. I'm gonna redo it since I didn't remove all of the spark plugs.....

I've also been thinking of anything else I might have done and another thing does cross my mind. A few months ago, I bought a chrome oil pan, but the windage tray was hitting the pick up. So I notched out a small section of it so it would work. Might be nothing but figured I'd mention it...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #89 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 07:23 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mt.Vernon,IN
Posts: 484
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
pvc or blown rings

great thread, Im really interested to see where this ends up. I am going through a similar Issue with my truck. Its got a 283 in it though, but they're all pretty much the same (sbc) exept the bore, stroke and type of head. Anyway, not to steal your thread or nuthin but I just recently posted one about my truck smoking and running rich, atleast thats what i thought it was until i read this. My motor was rebuilt in 1996, but its only got around 38K on it so It shouldn't me wore out yet. I can actually smell oil burning inside the cab, it doesn't smoke while driving, only at idle and smells of gas severely.I really think mine is the valve seals, but I also think my PVC is sucking oil cuz i always get some sitting on my intake when i add oil. About 1 quart a week I'm gonna change the heads on it this winter to some 416 casting 305 HO heads. Hopefully this will solve my problem, and mabey give me a little extra power to boot, due to the bigger intake valves @1.84 and tighter chamber @ 58cc. Just know your not alone, I wish you the best of like and hope its nothing too extensive.
Danny
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #90 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 07:28 AM
OHD's Avatar
OHD OHD is offline
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: outhouse
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sny oil will never allow the rings to seal. NEVER NEVER RUN SYN OIL IN A NEW ENGINE PRIOR TO COMPLETE BREAKIN of the rings to cylinder wall.

Run a straight weight non detergent oil to let the rings seal or you will be chasing phamtoms as the rings attempt to seal in the different cylinders.

If you continue to run syn oil you may end up needing to rehoning the cylinder walls to allow the new rings, that will be needed, to seal.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
re-arrange pics in photo album ChevelleSS_LS6 Hotrodders Site Suggestions and Help 7 01-25-2013 07:54 PM
Carb rebuild - won't start now. Please help? joe99 Engine 6 11-30-2011 03:04 PM
GM steering column tilt/wobble repair HELP (pics inside) camaroguy1969 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 18 03-05-2009 12:37 AM
Completed Stude interior pics... phattpat Interior 6 07-22-2004 11:03 AM
bad headgasket as suspected.. pics inside... Gino Fultano Engine 2 09-03-2003 06:56 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.