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Old 10-06-2008, 12:38 PM
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blower on a 383 stroker question!

I am going to build a 383 but would like to put an 8-71 blower on it. what would be the best for pistons and cam and what else would I have to do to make it blower worthy? thanks alot for any advice

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Old 10-06-2008, 01:02 PM
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What vehicle is this motor going into?
What will it be used for? Daily driver, street/strip, race only?
Do you want to be able to run it on pump gas?
What kind of budget do you have?
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:12 PM
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It will be going in my 85 elcamino. I want it to be street/strip on pump gas. I am working with about 10k. Just for the motor the trans and rear are for another time.
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:46 PM
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Here is some good basic guidance from Blower Drive Service...

Recommendations

FAQ
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:11 PM
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wow thanks that helps alot!! It sounds like I can go through them with all my engine build parts! Do you think that 10k is enough?
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:39 PM
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You should be able to build a nice blower motor with 10K. That's about what I have in mine (355) using a race-prepped short block (Eagle steel rods and crank, KB blower pistons), Dart Iron Eagle S/S 76cc heads (8.2:1 c/r), Comp hydraulic roller cam (224/230 @ .050, 112 LSA), BDS 6-71 polished kit w/ pullies for 6# boost), 2x Edelbrock 1405s, polished Hilborn-style scoop, polished Weiand water pump, MSD billet dizzy, 6AL box w/ a 6000 pill, Blaster II coil, 8.5 plug wires, chrome Slamguard oil pan (3.5" clearance ), chrome starter, chrome alternator, coated roadster headers.

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Old 10-06-2008, 02:42 PM
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what kind of power you pushin?
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:48 PM
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The guy that built my short block (his engine shop specializes in circle track and street rod motors) estimates 500 hp, 450 torque. All I know is it's way more than my light little car can put to the ground!
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:56 PM
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Spend the money you would have used on a 383 stroker kit, on a really good set of cylinder heads and build a low compression 355ci motor with forged dished pistons
TRW L2441F-30 pistons (21.1cc D dish)
350 4 bolt 010 block bored .030+ bore "0 Decked"
New GM 5.7" rods and ARP bolts
New 3.48" stroke cast steel crank.
Get the crank and balancer cut for a double keyway
for the blower drive.
Use a aftermarket balancer like a ATI SuperDamper.
http://www.atiperformanceproducts.co...pers/index.htm

Use AFR 195cc 76cc chambered eliminator heads. EG: AFR pn 1036.
Crane cam #113801 Hyd flat tappet with a 1.6/1.5 split rocker ratio set.
Mild street manors near stock converter. good supercharger power to 5500-6000rpm.

Crane #114681 blower friendly mechanical street cam http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
3000stall good street manors strong, strong power to 6500++rpm.
use two blower modified 750cfm holleys or two modified 750cfm edelbrock carbs.

Your compression ratio will be 7.84:1 which will easily allow 10-12 LBS of boost on pump gas with little or now spark retard and full reliability on premimum pump gas.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:00 PM
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Hey F-BIRD, I'm curious. Why do you recommend a flat tappet over a roller?
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:00 PM
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You need to keep the compression down, to around 140 per cylinder, for longevity on the street/strip, when using straight up 1.1 ratio, or higher boost levels (over driven).

A 1.1 ratio will work with up to 170 compression for the street, but not recommended on the strip, unless you run racing fuel's of 108-112 octane, for both. Personally I recommend a under driven ratio, to no more then 9 LBS of boost, with up to 170 compression.

Another "must" is the use of a boost retard controller. I prefer MSD's controller's, personally.

The corvette in my AVATAR, is a 383, it has 170 compression, running a 1.1 ratio. The boost retard is set to 1" retard for each pound of boost. It also runs 112 octane fuel, but never sees the track.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XNTRCI-T
Hey F-BIRD, I'm curious. Why do you recommend a flat tappet over a roller?
Don't really need the roller. The Crane flat tappet cams are plenty powerfull and very reliable on the street/strip. It's very easy to get big, big power from a 671-871 blower, you don't need a radical valvetrain. Just adds unnessessary cost and complexity. The blower and AFR cylinder heads make all the power.

Your money is much much better spent on Blower carbs/fuel system, a good well designed exhaust, a quality transmission and torque converter and dyno tuning and set up.

Keep it simple......
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Old 10-06-2008, 11:30 PM
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that long block f bird describes is almost exactly what im running. Its an incredably simple build but puts down very nice power with out a whole lot of boost
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