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Old 11-04-2012, 11:03 AM
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Blown 383 combo, what do you think?

Hey guys. I know there are a lot of you here with large amounts of experience dealing with blown motors, and this will be my first, so I was hoping to get some opinions on my new possible combo. Not built yet, just doing all my homework before I get into it. I could use some help determining which cam and heads to use.

Car: 1972 Nova, 100% street car, will have a roll cage in it by the time the engine is done
Transmission: Built TH-350, 3800ish Stall. I'm aware I may need to upgrade to a TH-400, but this 350 is fresh and I'd just as soon kill it first.
Rear End: 8.5" 10-bolt, Yukon posi, 30 spline Moser axles (w/c-clip eliminators), Motive 3.73s

Engine combo I'm speccing out is as follows..

Block: 1970 "010" block, 4-bolt main, .030 over right now
Compression: 7.5:1
Crank: Either Callies Compstar 3.750" or Scat 435056 3.750". Both are 4340 forged. What's your opinion on those?
Rods: Scat "pro-stock" 4340 forged 6" (currently in the motor)
Pistons: Keith Black forged aluminum, dished.. I'll figure out how much dish I need when I finalize everything.

Induction: Weiand 6-71 roots, fed by two Holley 650 carbs. Hoping to push 10 PSI with water/meth injection.

Heads: Strongly considering either AFR 220s or Chad Speier ported Pro-filer 210s. Not sure either way, same price for both. What's your opinion on these?

Cam: This is where I could use some help. I've gotten a few custom recommendations and so far I like this one using Comp Cams "TK" lobes with a good split:

246/251 @ .050 (Advertised 274/279), .680/.688 (1.6 rockers), 114 LSA.

Solid roller, of course. That cam gives me 20 degrees of overlap if I've done my math right.

What would the gurus of boost suggest for a cam? Is that one decent?

Anyone with a similar setup? How do you like it?

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Old 11-04-2012, 01:05 PM
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Read and heed these recommendations from Blower Drive Service. Also, note that a Lobe Separation Angle of 110 works better with gasoline, while the 112/114 Lobe Separation Angles will work better with alcohol. This is one of those things that gets screwed up in the telling of how to do it from one fellow to another. Someone told someone else to use 114 with alcohol. Then, when he re-told the story, it came out as "use 114 with a blower". Not true. 110 on gasoline, 114 on alcohol.
Blower Drive Service: We Deliver Horse Power! - Blower Drive Systems, Blower Kits, Blower Cams, Custom Carb Service
Looks to me like you're building a bracket motor and planning to run it on the street. The cam you suggested will make power to 7200. How are you going to use that on the street? I'm bettin' you won't last a week on the streets without having your car impounded.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:37 PM
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You got It pretty well nailed down.. You don;t need much help.

heads: either are really good IMHO... Work with Chad Spier to get the Profiler heads combo
just right or Work directly with AFR,,, same thing. Either can and will get you set up with the right package.

The th350 is fine once the 2nd gear sprag is upgraded and the high clutch pack clutch count is increased, for more power load. A simple upgrade remachining of the high gear drum for more clutches.

Do not use a full race manual valve body on the street in this transmission.
Keep the auto/manual shift option and part throttle shift accumulators.
(Transgo shift kit) It will out live you. full manual, full time full race drag only bang shifts on the street are what
kills these transmissions.
There is a easy th 350 valve body mod that eliminates the stock th350 kick down cable yet maintains a
accumulated-moderated part throttle shift and a powerfull but not excessive WOT shift.
The vacuum modulator is retained. For a blower application there is a mechanical "vacuum modulator" you can use. (comes on GM diesel vans with auto transmission). Get one, or use a boost check valve in the trans vacuum line.

Avoid 2nd gear burnouts and dry hop testing the tires for bite. These are garanteed, unnessessary abuse death to a th350.
Avoid these and do the simple upgrades and this trans wil take all the power you throw at it.
Burn out, 1-2-3rd gear.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 11-04-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Read and heed these recommendations from Blower Drive Service. Also, note that a Lobe Separation Angle of 110 works better with gasoline, while the 112/114 Lobe Separation Angles will work better with alcohol. This is one of those things that gets screwed up in the telling of how to do it from one fellow to another. Someone told someone else to use 114 with alcohol. Then, when he re-told the story, it came out as "use 114 with a blower". Not true. 110 on gasoline, 114 on alcohol.
Blower Drive Service: We Deliver Horse Power! - Blower Drive Systems, Blower Kits, Blower Cams, Custom Carb Service
Looks to me like you're building a bracket motor and planning to run it on the street. The cam you suggested will make power to 7200. How are you going to use that on the street? I'm bettin' you won't last a week on the streets without having your car impounded.
thanks for the information on the lsa, ill do some research on that.

and the 355 in my car now makes power from 3000-7000, its no problem on the street and a hell of a lot of fun. been driving it for years now without ever an issue.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
You got It pretty well nailed down.. You don;t need much help.

heads: either are really good IMHO... Work with Chad Spier to get the Profiler heads combo
just right or Work directly with AFR,,, same thing. Either can and will get you set up with the right package.

The th350 is fine once the 2nd gear sprag is upgraded and the high clutch pack clutch count is increased, for more power load. A simple upgrade remachining of the high gear drum for more clutches.

Do not use a full race manual valve body on the street in this transmission.
Keep the auto/manual shift option and part throttle shift accumulators.
(Transgo shift kit) It will out live you. full manual, full time full race drag only bang shifts on the street are what
kills these transmissions.
There is a easy th 350 valve body mod that eliminates the stock th350 kick down cable yet maintains a
accumulated-moderated part throttle shift and a powerfull but not excessive WOT shift.
The vacuum modulator is retained. For a blower application there is a mechanical "vacuum modulator" you can use. (comes on GM diesel vans with auto transmission). Get one, or use a boost check valve in the trans vacuum line.

Avoid 2nd gear burnouts and dry hop testing the tires for bite. These are garanteed, unnessessary abuse death to a th350.
Avoid these and do the simple upgrades and this trans wil take all the power you throw at it.
Burn out, 1-2-3rd gear.
thank you for the information on the TH-350. ill note all this down and plan on doing it in the future. by your previous posts i can tell you have a lot of experience, what do you think of the cam choice i posted above?

thanks
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:45 PM
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I think the cam choice is fine... those are agressive powerfull lobes.
I recomend once a year blower removal to remove and inspect the roller lifters.
any thing that don't look or feel right, rebuild or replace the roller lifters.
The key is inspection.

twice a summer lash adjustment.
Keep the idle up and keep the valve lash tight. (especially when cold lash setting)
use the best valve springs comp cams recomends. ---Call them.
Work with Chad Spier and Comp to get the heads/valve train all set up.

I think its going to GLH make sure your buddys are wearing Depends when they go for a test blast with ya.
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:13 AM
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My truck is running 10 psi on a mild hyd cam with 9 to 1 . Not sure what you mean by street. I have noticed that since the weather turned cold, low 30's , I have to let it warm up when I drive to work. The choke was adjusted for the winter, but still needs some time. Would have to think the a larger cam would have worse cold velocity issues. Never went that big with cams, and not thinking its for daily street vehicles.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn View Post
My truck is running 10 psi on a mild hyd cam with 9 to 1 . Not sure what you mean by street. I have noticed that since the weather turned cold, low 30's , I have to let it warm up when I drive to work. The choke was adjusted for the winter, but still needs some time. Would have to think the a larger cam would have worse cold velocity issues. Never went that big with cams, and not thinking its for daily street vehicles.
what kind of blower are you running? are you on premium pump gas?

shes not a daily driver, just a toy that comes out every couple weeks when its nice outside. the current 355 has a 248/252 @.050 camshaft along with a 750 holley with no choke, and yeah its gotta warm up for quite awhile before shes driveable, like a poster above said its basically a bracket motor i drive on the street. no big deal to me, when i step on the gas its worth all the little issues that come with a big solid roller
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:00 AM
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A edelbrock e force eaton, yes it takes 93 octane. It is a mild combo. 305 , performer cam,vortec heads, msd btm, avs, 3000 stall, 3.73, etc. Driven every morning. The mileage hasnt changed with the supercharger. It is much faster than a stock 85 c10.

My boost is a little higher than it was advertised with a 3" pulley. Thinking because of the small cam and displacement.

The big lift roller cams do not impress me. In the late 90's my cuda got a roller. I was told that night and day crap. The cam manners are the same. If you put a .550 + lift cam in, it acts like it. Good for racing, thats about it.
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