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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2013, 08:48 AM
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I'm not changing the drive. If I go to a higher pitch prop with the lower ratio drive then it should be accomplishing the same thing, right?

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2013, 12:25 PM
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man your gonna spend a ton of time and effort on this build. your starter wont fit, your timing chain cover and water pump wont fit, you need an intake manifold, and your carb reworked. your flywheel wont fit the 1 piece main crank, bolt holes on the heads wont match your pulleys, not to mention your oil pan wont replace the rusty one on the vortec etc etc. be ready for the tedius stuff on this one. if your going through the trouble then you should just build a hot engine like f-birds. your trying to keep your drive for economy and convenience but you have fallen off the wagon already! the vortec was a good idea for economy IF you already had a 1 piece sealed crank...which you do not have. the cheapest way to power and economy would be take your core and build a pump gas friendly 311ci. I think your distributor gear will need a swap as well for the vortec.

Last edited by s-10again!; 09-03-2013 at 12:33 PM.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2013, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s-10again! View Post
man your gonna spend a ton of time and effort on this build. your starter wontt fit, your timing chain cover and water pump wont fit, you need an intake manifold, and your carb reworked. your flywheel wont fit the 1 piece main crank, bolt holes on the heads wont match your pulleys, not to mI don'ntion your oil pan wont replace the rusty one on the vortec etc etc. be ready for the tedius stuff on this one. if your going through the trouble then you should just build a hot engine like f-birds. your trying to keep your drive for economy and convenience but you have fallen off the wagon already! the vortec was a good idea for economy IF you already had a 1 piece sealed crank...which you do not have. the cheapest way to power and economy would be take your core and build a pump gas friendly 311ci. I think your distributor gear will need a swap as well for the vortec.
starters aren't that expensive, the vortec engine has a timing chain cover on it and a water pump. The plan all along has been to run vortec heads so I would have bought an intake either way. the oil pan on the vortec engine looks to be in good shape. Even if the only thing I use off the engine is the heads i don't think I went wrong with buying it. I only paid two hundred bucks for it.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2013, 06:55 PM
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just read through this article. I liked the way he started the project. But I think the guy had a pile of money sitting around that he didn't know what to do with.

the engine that came in the triple digits boat was a mercruiser magnum, do you know what the engine specs of that engine is?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2013, 01:12 AM
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The old Merc Magnum I think was just a run of the mill 260hp with different branding because they were in go fast boats. The Merc racing engine was 330hp IIRC.. The 350 "Mag" engine that is common nowdays is a 300hp EFI setup.. Merc or any marine manufacture never publishes torque ratings
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2013, 04:57 PM
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so........ I'm getting ready to start disassembly of the vortec 350 engine that I bought from my co workers brother. Just curious if there's anything that I need to be looking for during disassembly? Maybe common places for cracks in the block and heads and what engine bearings should look like after 250,000 miles if everything was okay? I am very new to this ( first engine build). I have bought a couple of books the past few months on rebuilding a Chevy 350 and have read then front to back back to front and upside down. It's probably still going to be a couple of weeks until I start this until after the holidays and the kids get back in school.
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