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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2013, 08:42 PM
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take the engine apart and see whats good?

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2013, 09:04 PM
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Keep in mind, if your current motor is the 2bbl version, than going to a 350 will require a new outdrive leg because the ratios are off. It's 1.65 vs 1.5 for the 350. I wouldn't be surprised if your 1984 boat has a 1983 stern drive which is not an Alpha. What are your S/N's? They are forward compatible as in you could put an Alpha leg on an "MR" drive but not the other way around
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:48 AM
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I'm not changing the drive. If I go to a higher pitch prop with the lower ratio drive then it should be accomplishing the same thing, right?
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobBoat View Post
I'm not changing the drive. If I go to a higher pitch prop with the lower ratio drive then it should be accomplishing the same thing, right?
Yes in a round about way. it will be up to you to dial it in.
Remember a hot rodded engine Cam etc makes its best power ant a higher pm than a stock engine does. ( especially a hot rodded 305)
so to get max boat top speed out of it with a hot rodded engine you want to to prop it so it can rev a bit. So you can plan on needing to play with props a bit to get it dialed in.

1.65:1 is about 10% higher drive ratio than 1.50:1

Running @ higher rpm then 5000 rpm for short WOT blasts won't kill it.
The EP lubericant additives in the drive oil help protect the drive components during short periods of less than optimin lubrication.

You won;t want to run WOT top speed for more than a drag race sprint or two, for long as it sucks too much, fuel too fast.

cruise at 3500 to 5000 rpm...you'll get there.

Does your drive have power trim too.?
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:25 AM
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man your gonna spend a ton of time and effort on this build. your starter wont fit, your timing chain cover and water pump wont fit, you need an intake manifold, and your carb reworked. your flywheel wont fit the 1 piece main crank, bolt holes on the heads wont match your pulleys, not to mention your oil pan wont replace the rusty one on the vortec etc etc. be ready for the tedius stuff on this one. if your going through the trouble then you should just build a hot engine like f-birds. your trying to keep your drive for economy and convenience but you have fallen off the wagon already! the vortec was a good idea for economy IF you already had a 1 piece sealed crank...which you do not have. the cheapest way to power and economy would be take your core and build a pump gas friendly 311ci. I think your distributor gear will need a swap as well for the vortec.

Last edited by s-10again!; 09-03-2013 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by s-10again! View Post
man your gonna spend a ton of time and effort on this build. your starter wontt fit, your timing chain cover and water pump wont fit, you need an intake manifold, and your carb reworked. your flywheel wont fit the 1 piece main crank, bolt holes on the heads wont match your pulleys, not to mI don'ntion your oil pan wont replace the rusty one on the vortec etc etc. be ready for the tedius stuff on this one. if your going through the trouble then you should just build a hot engine like f-birds. your trying to keep your drive for economy and convenience but you have fallen off the wagon already! the vortec was a good idea for economy IF you already had a 1 piece sealed crank...which you do not have. the cheapest way to power and economy would be take your core and build a pump gas friendly 311ci. I think your distributor gear will need a swap as well for the vortec.
starters aren't that expensive, the vortec engine has a timing chain cover on it and a water pump. The plan all along has been to run vortec heads so I would have bought an intake either way. the oil pan on the vortec engine looks to be in good shape. Even if the only thing I use off the engine is the heads i don't think I went wrong with buying it. I only paid two hundred bucks for it.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:18 AM
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Here is a very interesting article about a extensive How to hot rod your 350SBC boat with a Alpha 1.
It covers a 5 year project. Shows you what you can do to a Alpha Drive to hot rod it.
This guy ran huge power thru it.
I would have done it a different way using a supercharged 355, for a fraction of the motor price,
but the rest is really cool. And illustrates my point on how critical prop tuning and selection is to boat performance.
Check it out.
RLCPerformance.com
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:55 PM
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just read through this article. I liked the way he started the project. But I think the guy had a pile of money sitting around that he didn't know what to do with.

the engine that came in the triple digits boat was a mercruiser magnum, do you know what the engine specs of that engine is?
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:12 AM
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The old Merc Magnum I think was just a run of the mill 260hp with different branding because they were in go fast boats. The Merc racing engine was 330hp IIRC.. The 350 "Mag" engine that is common nowdays is a 300hp EFI setup.. Merc or any marine manufacture never publishes torque ratings
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:24 AM
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But I think the guy had a pile of money sitting around that he didn't know what to do with.
Well you know the old story of how to make a millionaire.....Find Billionaire... and give him a power boat.!...
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:57 PM
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so........ I'm getting ready to start disassembly of the vortec 350 engine that I bought from my co workers brother. Just curious if there's anything that I need to be looking for during disassembly? Maybe common places for cracks in the block and heads and what engine bearings should look like after 250,000 miles if everything was okay? I am very new to this ( first engine build). I have bought a couple of books the past few months on rebuilding a Chevy 350 and have read then front to back back to front and upside down. It's probably still going to be a couple of weeks until I start this until after the holidays and the kids get back in school.
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