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Old 08-24-2013, 08:12 PM
69 widetrack 69 widetrack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abrenn View Post
I know I goof a story and question’s for 69 Widetrack
I am working on my 30 FORD Coup, I want to keep it original, I am just a original Model A FORD guy. Any way it will not be a show car but want it to look kind of nice. At my age I just want to get it done so I can drive it some be for I am to old to dr.. I have had it for years and never got it on road. To many Irons in fire in early years.
I am not up to date on the new primers and paint. Many years ago I patched and use lacquer thinner, primer and acrylic enamel on my own cars. But 69 widetrack I think you have talked me into trying epoxy primer. I was afraid to try the stuff on small panels or just one fender at a time, when I only need a little bit. I figure I would be wasting a lot. I was told you have to through it away in a few hours.
I have a 4.5 hr. peak air compressor from Harbor freight, I know it is not big enough to use air sander, it seems to do ok with L. primer and black enamel that I used on trunk lid, with the Binks 18 gun. It has the regulator that came with it.
What I did, I used my ½ hr drill with 40 and 80 grit. I striped to bear metal on top of coup and sides of top, used course steel wool and Dupont Metal Conditioner where I figure I need to. I mixed 1 part to 2 part water, [ maybe it to old ] the can said to keep wet while working it, I hand dry it good , said nothing about rinsing of , let dry for 10 more min like can said to do, and prime with my L . Primer, sand re prime sand , did this about 2 months ago. Look good , than I strip front fender and did the same , but I guess I had more little pitting here, it seems smooth , I think u call it black rust. I though the metal cond would work as well here too. This has been just a month now and now 4 or 5 spots pop through primer, the size of pencil lead. So now I am thinking about the epoxy primer. I am still concern about all the waste I will have on what epoxy I have left over.
Now I have the car in basement and run the dehumidifier most of the time. The car sat all winter and the fender was bear a long where we mig weld a spot on edge last nov 2012 and it did not get any rust, and no dehumidifier running all winter , furnace keep basement at about 50 this is by Erie, Pa. In spring I put some fiber glass on spot and filler and meal treated and prime. Then got my popping. Fender is staying on car to do work. Oh I wire brushed under side and brush on black Rust-oleum about 1 yr ago. I thought it would help seal also.now 69 w.t. for the question’s-- I am lost on all this new stuff and don’t want to sand blast
What can I use ? u told me metal has to be clean and rust free , without sand blasting what do I use? What about POR 15 I saw a post movie clip ,on it.
or do u have something else in mind? thank you for any help arlo
Well Abrenn, first of all, I love the car...just a great classic and timeless. The situation your in is not at all uncommon. I understand that you aren't familiar with today's Primers. Today Primers are made to seal metal from the outside elements such as moisture. Epoxy Primers are exactly what it sounds like, glue with rust inhibitors in the primer and when it cures, it has a very tight molecule that doesn't allow moisture in...lacquer primer on the other hand is like a sponge, it actually draws moisture in and holds it there and in effect can cause rust to form, even after it's primed. Lacquer paint does have water resistant properties but, the lacquer paint should be applied shortly after the primer has been prepped for paint. With Epoxy Primer you can wait long periods of time before top coating and not worry about rust.

The situation you have now is that you have Lacquer Primer on your car. In order to do a good job, the Lacquer Primer should be removed. This can be done by sanding or by wiping it clean with thinner. If you choose to wipe the primer off, make sure that that the bare metal is cleaned with a quality wax and grease remover...several times to remove the residue left from the the thinner. Once the metal has been brought back to raw steel, you will be able to see where and how much rust you have.

You mentioned that you don't want to sand blast the metal, is there any reason for that? Another way to go is use a product called OSPHO...this is a chemical that will remove rust and it should be neutralized before primer is applied. If you like, I can send you a PM a little later with all the details.

A lot of people like POR 15, I'm not a big fan. The metal needs to be prepared correctly or it will not stick.

You mentioned that you where concerned about waste when using Epoxy Primer...again, I understand, however, there would seem to be a fair amount of waste of lacquer Primer now. If the parts had been sprayed in Epoxy to start off with, there is a good chance that things would have worked out. Epoxy Primer is much superior to Lacquer Primer in every way. It has much more hold out, it has build qualities, it is water resistant, SPI's Epoxy sands very well and can be directly top coated within 7 days without sanding.

The best thing to do if you are concerned about waste is to mix whatever amount of primer you feel you will need. If you have a little left over, put it on the part, if you need a little more, mix more...you won't be sorry when you use Epoxy Primer.

Let me know if you would like more information on OSPHO, send me a Private Message, or even just a short line on this thread and I will get you the information. I'm not sure if that's what your after otherwise I would do it now.

I hope this helps, again, if you need more information about anything involving your car, please feel free, I am always happy to help.

Ray
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