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Old 08-13-2010, 07:40 AM
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Body to Frame mounting on a Model A

Hi All, I have a New perimeter frame from Last Refuge and it is very nice. However it did not come with body mounting holes so I purchased myself a diagram/drawing of exactly where the holes are to go. My dilema is; the frame guy from Last Refuge told me to just drill a hole big enough to fit nuts into it and weld them in place, then grind to make smooth. I have also talked with other frame manufacturers that say Nutserts work perfectly without any pull through issues. I purchased a new set of mounting bolts from Vintique supplies and the bolts are 7/16"-20. I checked everywhere and Nutserts are not available in that size. They go up to 3/8"-16 or 24. What is the best, safest and strongest solution to this dilema? Should I weld nuts in from the top (Because its a 4x2 .125 gauge tube frame), or should I use 3/8"-16 or 24 Nutserts?

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Old 08-13-2010, 08:31 AM
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Many aftermarket frames come with inserts welded to the top of the frame rails to mount the body. Most use 3/8-24 threads.

The original frame rails were a 'C' channel style (open on the inside) and were installed with thru bolts.

There are spacer blocks of wood and rubber shims as well as a body to frame welting that separate the body from the frame. In the cowl area just in front of the door opening are two mounting bolts on each side. These are shimmed to correctly align the doors,hood and radiator shell.

If you use long thru bolts in the aftermarket rectangular box tubing frame, it is advisable to first weld in a spacer tube in the frame rails. The I.D. of the tubing to be slightly larger than the O.D. of the thru bolts. The O.D. can be whatever you choose (usually around 7/8"-1") and the length the same as the thickness of the frame. This is to prevent crushing and/or collapsing the rectangular frame tubing when tightening the bolts.
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Old 08-13-2010, 09:18 AM
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nut serts

i've used them on my bucket.. they are rubber with a nut inside... they last for a while.. built my second bucket and welded 5/16" nuts in the top of frame.. much better...
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Old 08-13-2010, 09:58 AM
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Frame mount styles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frisco
Many aftermarket frames come with inserts welded to the top of the frame rails to mount the body. Most use 3/8-24 threads.

The original frame rails were a 'C' channel style (open on the inside) and were installed with thru bolts.

There are spacer blocks of wood and rubber shims as well as a body to frame welting that separate the body from the frame. In the cowl area just in front of the door opening are two mounting bolts on each side. These are shimmed to correctly align the doors,hood and radiator shell.

If you use long thru bolts in the aftermarket rectangular box tubing frame, it is advisable to first weld in a spacer tube in the frame rails. The I.D. of the tubing to be slightly larger than the O.D. of the thru bolts. The O.D. can be whatever you choose (usually around 7/8"-1") and the length the same as the thickness of the frame. This is to prevent crushing and/or collapsing the rectangular frame tubing when tightening the bolts.
Hello Frisco, Thanks for the quick response ! I really dont want to use long thru bolts and tubes , I would like to somehow use either Nutserts or gripserts (they are inserts you use by drilling a hole bigger then the nutsert, then inserting the unit and using the tool to pull the wedge/nut upward thus wedging the insert in place) very strong usually Im just concerned about it somehow pulling thru eventually. Thats good news that the bolts are usually 3/8-24. I can get nutserts in that size if I use them. Do you think what the frame guy told me is a sturdy enough way? He said to drill a hole that the nut(3/8"-24) would just fit thru tapping in place and then get a good penetration oe weld all the way around the nut top?
I know what you mean about the thru bolts on the old C channel frame originally as I took the body off the original frame.
I asked a guy from Kenny's Rod and Custom about Nutserts pulling thru and he said ,"Never" you may get one to spin in the hole but Never pull out because they either get wedged or mushroomed out inside the frame rails eliminating this from happening. I just want to be sure and safe.
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:00 AM
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Because this question has nothing to do with Suspension - Brakes - Steering as a Moderator, I am going to move this thread to General Rodding Tech ... where hopefully, you can will get more responses

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Old 08-13-2010, 12:21 PM
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I have made a sort of nutsert by drilling a hole in a piece of strap steel welding a nut to that and then by drilling a hole big enough to accept the nut in the tube and welding the strap to the tube with the nut down in the tube..makes a nice attachment that is very strong and one can get sizes not available in nutserts that way..and that nutsert setting tool is spendy and probably not justified unless a fellow has lots of them to do on a regular basis..

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Old 08-14-2010, 04:53 PM
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In British Columbia you can not use nutserts to mount your body to the frame as the frame will fail inspection for road worthyness. I am building a 50 Prefect and have welded 3/8 24 nuts in the frame and used tubes through the frame and backing plates for shock mounts. This is time consumming but will pass inspection as your frame tech told you.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:42 AM
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Body to Frame mounting- Model A

Thank you all for all of your replies,

Sam(one More Time), I read your thread and I think I understand what you are saying. You took a piece of (strap)? is this Scrap Steel? like a washer maybe, and weld a nut to that, then drill a hole big enough to accept the nut/washer in the (tube)? does this refer to the Tube frame like 4x2 tube frame? nut side down and then weld that assembly to the frame(tube)? Is this what you meant? If it is it sounds like a pretty nice idea! If not please straighten my perception of your explanation out for me.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:10 AM
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Drewster,
You about got it though strap is not scrap..strap comes in 20 ft bars of specified thickness and widths and I buy it just for making this sort of thing..as well as roll cage gussets and such..but yes what I do is cut a piece of 1/8 x 1 strap about 2 inches long and say I need a 3/8 - 24 nut plate I then drill a 3/8 hole in the strap then weld the nut over the hole so a bolt will thread into that..then drill or bore a hole in the tube and place the nut plate that I made in the hole so the nut is to the inside then weld it up..works for a lot of things..just do not grind your welds if the chassis or cage is to be inspected..

Sam
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:50 AM
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Body to Frame mounting - model A

Hi Sam,
Thank you for your time and knowledge.. that sounds like a very good way to do this. So the 1/8" x 1 x 2 Nut plate is welded to the top of my frame rail nut side down thru the hole inside the frame rail and then the body Wood blocks, rubber shims, and welt material sit on top of this Nut/Plate assembly Correct?
Thanks, Drewster
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewster
Hi Sam,
Thank you for your time and knowledge.. that sounds like a very good way to do this. So the 1/8" x 1 x 2 Nut plate is welded to the top of my frame rail nut side down thru the hole inside the frame rail and then the body Wood blocks, rubber shims, and welt material sit on top of this Nut/Plate assembly Correct?
Thanks, Drewster
yes and you may need to fabricate outriggers to accomodate some of the body mounts as I would not have a clue as to where all the mounting points are until I set the body on..

Sam
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