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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 09:19 PM
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Ok guys what is this all about???

Sam

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 09:24 PM
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jimmy took my ball and kicked it over the fence so I threw a rock at his head.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:38 PM
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widetrack, there is a chip on my shoulder and something has been bothering me as of late. I'll pm you.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2013, 07:00 AM
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If your gonna go the quickest easiest way to close the gap wouldnt it be easier and better to weld the rod on the deck lids edge rather than cut,spread, weld and bondo the 1/4 and take an even bigger gamble of warping th 1/4???.....
I imagine the time saving would be concederable since you could probably get away with doing only one side with an 1/8" rod and sliding the deck over??? makes sence to me....
getting good gaps at the beginning of the installation is the way to go though. heres some pics to look at mabee they can help...
when installing full aftermarket 1/4's I find that the jambs edges arent very sharp (rounded) and the gaps are hard to get right,they need a lot of massaging.I see a lot of guys just give up and say good enoughand blame it on bad sheetmetal even go as far as stuffing bondo in the jamb to close it up...getting good gaps in aftermarket sheetmetal IS a challenge but its worth all the extra time..repairing it afterwards is second rate and shows off a lack of experianceand pride in the tec's work a good tec always has quality come first before anything else ,the amount of money he's making on the job is way down on the list ... A not so good tec always puts the money first and is willing to put out second rate work and say there wasnt enough money to do it right,funny thing is every single job they do is like that...(just an excuse for lack of talent)
I'm sorry to say ,I just have to blame it on the tec...he needs to make it right if he even can. Or you should find someone else that the can...
The thing is, if he left something so obvious as bad gaps ,what has he done wrong that you cant see??? you better get in there and check it out top to bottom or have someone that knows what to look for do it...Bad gaps are just the first sign of a poor quality job...
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2013, 07:35 AM
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I mentioned doing it on the quarter cause the line is already there, it's straight, and that's where the problem is...but is most likely rounder than needed as you mentioned. As far as checking the guy's work, I would check the flange to the rocker and the under side.

Love what you said about quality and pride. I agree and i put my neck on the line to do so.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2013, 10:50 AM
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Good post Mike...I just want to reiterate that the method I outlined earlier is a fix for the situation we have today and if the repairs had been done correctly originally we wouldn't be having this thread going on now...Mike is right, what else may be buried underneath the primer and usually if there's something obviously wrong, there's something else wrong that isn't obvious.

I've used the 1/8th welding rod to get proper gaps on pre 1940's cars only so far, the gaps that are present in many of these 70 plus year old cars may have existed from the factory or over time they reared their ugly head...that being said...it may help the OP to do a repair that perhaps isn't 100% and wouldn't recommend this type of method for say a #'s matching LS6 Chevelle (that's why I asked if the car was extra rare). The proper fix would be to remove the quarters, install them using the deck lid to achieve the gaps wanted, an alternative to that would be to use Tech 69's approach. We now have 3 methods to solve a situation that was created...the choice is up to the OP and I would welcome any other recommendations. It's the OP that has asked for help and advice and I hope the solutions offered help in his endeavour.

Ray
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2013, 11:07 AM
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There are lots of ways to get perfect gaps with metal work, my concerns is that the poster could start doing these things when in actually it requires something else entirely like simply moving the lid forward or back. We really need photos to know what to tell him.

There are often very simple methods to solve problems, I just hate for him to jump into cutting and welding when it could be something much simpler. I am just guessing of course it may very well need a LOT of serious surgery, but without photos we are only guessing at what THIS car needs.

Something goofy like the lid they fitted the quarters with was the original and now the poster is putting on a new repro, we don't have enough info.

Brian

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2013, 11:21 AM
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Double post
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:04 PM
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True enough Brian, we're assuming that all usual adjusting methods have been used, also assuming that the quarter was installed wrong and what may be standard procedure for people in the industry may not be for people that aren't. Pictures would be helpful and again Brian, true, we need more information before the OP starts cutting and or welding.

Ray
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2013, 01:43 PM
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I think he should take pics AND take measurements of the gaps. Ya see, we all work great as a team if you ignore all the bickering!
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:14 PM
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1970 Camaro, trunk lid/quarter panel clearance

Brian,

Thank you for your suggestion on the Fisher Body Manual and the Assembly Manual. I have both and neither has this specification. Please direct me to something official. Thank you
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2013, 05:03 PM
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Most likely there is or was a tolerance for the gaps..the actual parts themselves have specific dimensions..At least that was my experience in engineering..

Sam
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Double post
The brite side to your problem is the gap is slightly too big rather than too small.
You have several ways to cover this problem without cutting it appart
As long as your gap is even on both sides around 3/16 or even to the fender to door gap would likely be acceptable
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2013, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laxnedw View Post
Brian,

Thank you for your suggestion on the Fisher Body Manual and the Assembly Manual. I have both and neither has this specification. Please direct me to something official. Thank you
That is official and believe me, if you don't find this particular thing in there you will be glad you have them and be using them for other things.

Have you posted this over at Team Camaro Technical Question & Answer Forum - Camaros.net

Brian
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:36 AM
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I am sorry about that laxnedw but I was certain it would have that info, sometimes they are not easy to find stuff in with just a little photo here or there with a drawing, are you sure it isn't there?

Brian
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