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Old 11-20-2006, 02:32 PM
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Body Ripple

OK, I am trying my hand at doing body work and my first attempt did not turn out as planned.

I have a chopped 1929 Model A and I have a lot of cleanup work to do where the top was welded back on and where the original open top was filled. I did some grinding this last weekend and got the really high spots knocked down. Then I used some bondo to fill the low spots and holes. Then I sanded, and sanded, and sanded. After many hours of sanding and a really sore shoulder, I have a smooth finish however, it is rippled (mostly the spots with bondo look lower than the pure metal spots. What can I do about this?

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Old 11-20-2006, 02:40 PM
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Use a long board and dont over sand. Also, when you get close prime the areas and use a guide coat before sanding. this will immediately tell you where your highs and lows are.
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Old 11-20-2006, 03:20 PM
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Don't try to fill individual low spots like whiskey dents and such. Prepare the top for filler and cover the entire top with a generous coat of your favorite waterproof body filler. Then grind the whole lid down to a smooth, shot a mist tell-tale paint coat on it, block it with a long board and see how it looks.
If done right, there will be nothing more than priming and painting to do.

If you try to fill indicidual dings, dents and so on you'll be forever doing it and still end up with a rippled lid or whatever.
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Old 11-20-2006, 07:25 PM
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Yah, maybe try skiffing the panel. That roof isn't that big, so, I'd say wipe it complete with an even coat of metal glaze. Then as said block it. Cross-blocking is my method of choice. Run the block at a 45 degree angel from one corner to the opposite corner, turn the opposite direction and cross the passes you just made. When you start to see metal through the glaze slow down you should almost be there. Good Luck!
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:05 PM
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Sounds like a good candidate for polyester primer to me.
Like Evercoat Slick Sand or Featherfill G2. Then use a long board with 180 dry and sand in criss-cross motions. If you start to sand through, it's time for another coat. But you may not, as this stuff sprays on pretty thick. Guide coats can help but I have done it perfectly without. The 3M dry guide coat is the way to go tho if you are going to use it.
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:45 PM
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A cheap can of spray-bomb is a much cheaper way to guide-coat. Just dust a mist coat of black over the panel. I've used the 3M dry guide-coat, it's not bad. The only advantage I could find with it, was if you've got pin-holes, they show right up. Other than that I found the stuff to be messy. If you do use the dry, I suggest scuffing over the panel quickly with something, it seems to go on better on a scratched surface. Good luck with it!
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