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Old 09-23-2006, 02:55 PM
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Body Rotisserie

lOOKING FOR PLANS AND IDEAS FOR BUILDING A BODY ROTISSERIE. ANY THOUGHTS. I DID A WEB SEARCH BUT A LOT DEAD ENDS.


THANKS DAVID

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Old 09-23-2006, 03:24 PM
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Try doing a Search within this site. There are many threads covering this topic.

Here's a link to a rotisserie site I found in one of these threads a while ago.
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:51 PM
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I made a very simple one for my 68 Firebird, David. Theres a few pics of it on my site that may give you some ideas.
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Old 09-23-2006, 04:03 PM
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Hey David,
Ya might wanna turn your CAPS LOCK OFF !!! It's indicates that your yelling in your post..

Here are a set I found off the net a while ago ...

Download them here...
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:40 AM
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I built this one and it works pretty good. It only cost about $300.00 in materials.
http://www.harwoodperformance.bizlan...itorial_20.htm
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60tbirdrick
I built this one and it works pretty good. It only cost about $300.00 in materials.
http://www.harwoodperformance.bizlan...itorial_20.htm
That's a good looking design! Very nice of Mr. Harwood to provide such an excellent drawing, too.

I'm well into building my own and would have guessed your materials cost was high, before I started. That's about how much I've spent on new steel and will have some left over, but I used some that was already on-hand, too.

In his design, the vertical piece and pivot are at a fixed height. I'm trying to make mine adjustable by welding the "rotator sleeve", as he calls it in his drawing, to a 2" (nom.) pipe that fits inside a 2-1/2" (nom.) pipe. The fixed one is 34" and the one with the rotator sleeve is 32". The intention is to allow an upward extension of 10" - 14" while keeping plenty of the smaller pipe still inside the larger one.

My garage has an 8 ft. ceiling, so the maximum sensible height of the rotator would be 48". That 48" radius, 96" diameter, quickly gets eaten up by a bare minimum of 3" clearance at the floor for the rotisserie legs (without casters) and 9" clearance at the ceiling for lights. My '49 Olds is about 72" wide at its widest. So far, so good.

The Olds is 54", floor to roof. Geometrical center is therefore at about 27" up-down and 36" left-right, and the center of gravity is probably closer to the floorboard. Since I can't really calculate where that c.g. is, I'm also allowing for being able to adjust the drop of the body support frame below the rotator sleeve. (Think of an upside-down "L" with one leg stuck into the sleeve and the body support frame attached somewhere along the other leg).

Considering the car body as a nice, square-cornered rectangle from the end, the diameter of the cylinder it's going to take up as it rotates is the length of the diagonal of that rectangle, roughly. Making use of the handy calculator at http://www.mathnstuff.com/math/spoke...math.htm#rectd (uses javascript), I get a diagonal of 90". Bummer.

It's going to bump something, somewhere, just like Mr. Harwood ran into in his garage. It may _just_ scrape by if I raise my lights to be flush at the ceiling and raise the rotator sleeve to a height of about 46" - 47".

I may tie the two rotator stands together by running a couple of 2x2 11 ga. square tubes under the ends of the base at each stand. That would eliminate that 3rd leg with the front wheels in Mr. Harwood's design. That leg directly reduces the diameter of the space available for the body to swing in. Splitting it into two legs spaced out at the ends of the stands' bases and giving up the casters gives more swing space around the pivot, all the way down to the floor.

My "engineering" is by guess and hope. Each of the adjustment points will be pinned all the way through, not just jammed by friction with a lock-bolt. I don't want anything moving anywhere that I don't make it move. It's not that much trouble to drill a new hole in the pipes for a grade 8 bolt when changing to a different body. If I survive this thing, maybe some real engineer will review it to see if the survival was by luck.

Here's a link to a discussion about rotisseries from the Knowledge Base: Tilter; Rotisserie; or Ramp?

[edited to add:]
Added a diagram. The pasted car body image doesn't have the correct perspective for the diagram, but helped me visualize what was going on.

[edit, again:]
D'oh! The diagram I attached before didn't show the rotisserie. Attached another one, from my journal.
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Last edited by grouch; 09-27-2006 at 10:06 AM. Reason: add diagram -- d'oh! added wrong diagram!
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:30 PM
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http://prostreetcar.com/body_rotisserie.html is another
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:24 AM
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easy

this is what i found and am going to build this week. i think it is less trouble than starting from scratch. i all depends on what your requirements are, 8 foot ceiling,move it from inside to out side, be able to push it up a trailer?
http://www.ponypics.com/spitfire/rotisserie.html
out riggers should be added to this design.
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Old 09-27-2006, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michelobmike2004
this is what i found and am going to build this week. i think it is less trouble than starting from scratch. i all depends on what your requirements are, 8 foot ceiling,move it from inside to out side, be able to push it up a trailer?
http://www.ponypics.com/spitfire/rotisserie.html
out riggers should be added to this design.
All the designs based on engine stands suffer from that leg sticking out right under the pivot point. A lot of engine stands have the pivot tilted, so two of them won't share a common axis.

The one on that web page is being used for a Spitfire, which is small and light. It probably won't cause any troubles due to having the pivot completely below the body's center of gravity, but a big, old, full body will. An engine won't stick out beyond the outer legs of that engine stand. It looks to me like a 40s or 50s car body on that stand will turn it over when rotated, if the outriggers you suggest are not added.
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:39 AM
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engin stand

grouch
your right about the angle on the pivot point. the 750 pound stand at harbor fright looks like it has a very minimal angle. i think this will work with some improvements. the thing for me is when the car is finished what am i going to do with the equipment. at least the engine stand can hold a motors when i am done. i will enclose another link where it this has been done again. the biggest flaw of using engine stand is that you cant roll the car all the way over, because the main upright is to short. i even had a thought about buying them and cutting the tops off just to get the pivot point with an adjustable head. the stands are on sale in my area for $29 each. i also want to include a photo of my frame and body. i want to spin the frame to paint it, and the body so i can sand blast the bottom. so this thread came just in time for me.
chez
http://www.autorestorer.com/articles/art106.html
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:46 AM
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Also, try searching the Hotrodders Knowledge Base for the word "rotisserie". You'll see discussions, how-tos, and listings of companies that sell rotisseries, which you can examine for potential do-it-yourself ideas.
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:09 PM
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michelobmike2004:

I'm basing mine on the rotisserie "Shine" shows in:

Tilter; Rotisserie; or Ramp?

I found that a while back by doing just what Jon suggests, above. Just started writing it up for my journal, but the rotisserie itself is almost finished.

Shine's rotisserie is very simple, uses little material, supports the body along its full length, and doesn't include parts that reduce the swing capacity.

That's a good price on the engine stands, but if you have to cut them up to adapt them for use as a body rotisserie, you've really just bought raw material in the wrong form. That pivot is nothing but a pipe with another pipe stuck through it and drilled. You might want to take a look at the 2 or 3 images Shine attached in that other discussion from the Knowledge Base linked above. It could save you some money and frustration.
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:23 PM
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shine

the one shine built is very nice. i think that might be the way to go.
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