[cruzinTLT]

I am currently cleaning up the floor and other sheetmetal panels (behind the rear seat, etc.) in my 64 corvair convertible, and I have been removing a black seam sealer that has gotten brittle over the years. It also seems to have been brushed on at the factory in some areas, especially in the pocket area where the top retracts into. My question is: Can I just use a generic seam sealer from an auto parts supplier, or would you recommend something else? By the way, I am planning on doing a very thorough job of surface rust removal, and will Por-15 the scaly areas. Should I seal the seams before doing the Por-15, or after? I didn't know if the sealer would stick to the Por-15 or vice-versa.

[Early B's]

If you don't mind spending a little more $ I would highly recommend using Fusor 800. I have had great results with it on restorations. It is unbelievably tough when cured yet remains flexable.For seams I like to squirt it on with a caulk gun the go over it with a brush to spread it out a little. (plan on throwing the brush away!) Stay away from the standard 3M brushable seam sealer IMO - every time I have used it it turns color and develops shrinkage cracks.

[Rob Keller]

help me out here guys what are these products por 15 and fusor 800??
edgamacate me please.
sr66

[mrcleanr6]

por 15 is supposed to be this rust stopper/barrier/neutralizer paint. i have never used it. fusor 800 is urethane seam sealer, comes in a caulking tube. i have used that and its nice stuff.

[Rob Keller]

thanks much appriciated
you could clean it up real good and use 3 M zinc cromate primer that stuffis really kool seals it up real good then u can put what ever u want on top really keeps bare metal from rusting
also if u have bare metal and get your finger oil on it it can contaminate yiur stuff later on
sorry 4 the spelling

sr66

[Bee4Me]

Spend some time here and do some searchs on POR and seam sealer.
You'll be reading for the next month and you will also find the "correct" way to repair your problem. The BEST are on here and if you don't mind some hard work your reward will be the lasting repairs instead of cheap band-aid's associated with gimick products.

[Early B's]

Bee4Me is right. If you just plan on covering up the rust or scale with POR all you will do is give it a nice little home to keep festering and do it's damage. Go through some of the posts and find out the right way to get rid of ALL the rust. Then coat it with a good quality product (POR would work great as a barrier coat but you should definately get rid of all the rust first - and I dont mean using a wire brush to get rid of the scale - I mean getting completely rid of all traces of the rust!) - then apply your seam sealer (Fusor). Extra effort in areas like this (areas that you don't normally see) is what seperates the men from the boys! You and your car will be much happier and better off in the long run!

[cruzinTLT]

I appreciate the info guys. I know there are very differing views on Por-15, but I have used it before on a 53 chevy p/u frame, and it was awesome. I agree that you shouldn't just cover up rust with the stuff, but I fully intend to use the naval jelly technique that Randy Ferguson outlines in his forum to remove as much as possible, there are just so many nooks and crannies in the floor area around the conv. top frame, etc. that I couldn't get perfect without a sandblaster. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I just covered up rust without doing all I can to remove it. I guess my biggest concern was to get seam sealer in the cracks and seams while also getting rust protection in there. If I need to seal the floorpan and paint the overall area with something else, then so be it. I purposely ordered the Por-15 in the small 6-can pack because I don't see myself using that as a be-all, end-all solution. PS: I am enjoying searching the past forums on seam sealers and Por-15. You guys provide a invaluable service!!!