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NOVA1958 02-12-2012 05:19 PM

Body Work
 
Hi everyone
I'm in the being stage of doing the body work on what 72 Nova and need to know if everybody tries to get ever high and low spot out before they add filler or do you get it close and start filling.On the body,to save on epoxy paint I've been working the metal before I epoxy then I'll mist with cheap spray paint then block sand work metal again and check metal again.When finished I'm planning on sanding all the cheap paint off and when spraying with SPI epoxy.Both quarters were replaced with half quarters and I flanged the car and I mig welded the quarters.The door was pretty meshed up and took alot of work to get it looking this good it had alot of filler on when I first sanded it down.Please all body guys chime in.

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/a...ovaPics175.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/a...ovaPics173.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/a...ovaPics170.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/a...ovaPics150.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/a...ovaPics166.jpg

skip99 02-12-2012 05:56 PM

1 Attachment(s)
you might be better off putting a skin on the door, quicker and easier... as far as the quarters, how you gonna get the cheap stuff out of the low spots?
other than that, bondo and epoxy or epoxy and bondo..looks close enough..
consider spraying feather fill...it'll save you time..

I did the same thing to this one,, quarters, and door skin

OneMoreTime 02-12-2012 06:08 PM

Just do the metal work as good as your skills allow..It gets better with practice is all I can say.. Looking good from here..
:thumbup:

Sam

speedydeedy 02-12-2012 06:22 PM

It is best to get it as straight as possible but it looks good to me. I would start filling then priming.The main thing is you don't have swiss cheese rust holes. Everything I see is good solid metal just dents so you are good to go. :thumbup:

dinger 02-13-2012 12:55 AM

If the epoxy you are speaking of is epoxy primer, you really should use it for your base. It won't do as well when sprayed over primer. I am sure one of our experts will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe it is epoxy primer on the bare metal, bondo and other primers can be sprayed over the epoxy but you need to seal the metal with the epoxy.

deadbodyman 02-13-2012 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
Just do the metal work as good as your skills allow..It gets better with practice is all I can say.. Looking good from here..
:thumbup:

Sam

Although there are metal workers that can straighten metal so close they dont need filler...I'm not one of them so ther will be a point where you just cant get it any better and your just wasting time..You'll know when you get there,then get the filler out...
It looks pretty darn good to me too,I've seen pro's do worse...IMHO your ready for filler .....well ,a good cleaning with W&G, epoxy THEN filler

NOVA1958 02-13-2012 06:03 AM

The body is not in epoxy yet just ecoat on the quarters and factory paint in the other places.The trunk and door have 2 coats of ppg shopline epoxy on them now and I'm planing on putting other coat on the door and trunk before I start the filler work.
Here's some pics of the dr side fender I'm going to have to purchase a passager side fender its to far gone.
Thanks for the replies.


http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/a...ovaPics152.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/a...ovaPics153.jpg

Formulajim 02-19-2012 10:28 PM

Be careful with that e-coat try to take it off with lacquer thinner if it doesn,t wash off its ok but if it washes you need to get it all off. The tiywon stuff is bad news. I would put new skins on the doors it's way better looking in the end and easy to do. Epoxy first not cheap nightmare paint. Then filler,2-k high build primer, block it out use guide coat. If its high you hit metal if it's low it shows up guide coat.

tech69 02-19-2012 11:07 PM

do it to the best of your ability and know filler will fill the lows but can't fill the highs. You can mound the highs but you can't fill it. So basically, it's most important to do almost perfect metalwork for your high. My only highs are really subtle and on edges where it won't be noticed.

icecube508 02-19-2012 11:53 PM

bodywork
 
It depends on the type of epoxy you use. If its dtm the its only useable only on cleans substates. ie: properly cleaned steel, frp, rigid pp and alluminum. Its because of the solvents that in its composition. Non - dtm epoxy can be sprayed over properly prepped clearcoat, basecoat, primer and e-coat with no degragation in the primer. As far as body work. those doors can be fixed but not worth the time to do it. the metal is already stretched and will require a large amount of heating pulling and shrinking to get it to the point of using a filler, thats if you want to spend the 40+ hours to work the metal .. Imo i'd replace them. The rest is workable and dont look to bad. I'd spray a 1 coat of dtm on the bare metal to keep it from flash rust since you still put filler over top of it. keep up the good work

deadbodyman 02-20-2012 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Formulajim
Be careful with that e-coat try to take it off with lacquer thinner if it doesn,t wash off its ok but if it washes you need to get it all off. The tiywon stuff is bad news. I would put new skins on the doors it's way better looking in the end and easy to do. Epoxy first not cheap nightmare paint. Then filler,2-k high build primer, block it out use guide coat. If its high you hit metal if it's low it shows up guide coat.

so true ..If your going to spend any time at all working an after market panel the first thing you do is remove all that junk primerwether it washes of or not just sand it off an start with an epoxy that you know is good ...the whole job is relying on that primer why would you take a chance on something your not sure of ??


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