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Old 01-26-2004, 08:27 PM
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bodyfillers and priming help please.

I've been reading all the threads about body work and I am more confused than before. I was origionally going to do my body filling in stages when I had finished patching that area,for example the tail pan, then move on to another area.I now see where it is recommended to metal etch and epoxy prime before putting on filler.Is this what I should do ? If so, how do you prep the primer before you apply the filler to get good adhesion?I thought you roughened up bare steel to make the filler stick. If I am to prime and metal etch before the body filler,is it acceptable to brush it on to the area you are working with? these wold be smaller areas that will be sanded heavily anyway when smoothing the bodyfiller. I would spend more time cleaning the gun than spraying with it. I don't have the whole body stripped yet so couldn't prime it all yet. Also, where would you use light weight versus fiberglass versus metal filler and/or glaze. I've only used filler a little bit and it was the cheapest I could find at the time. Help please.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:59 AM
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All you need to do is scuff the epoxy primer prior to the bondo. The whole idea of using the primer first is to seal the metal from any moisture that may be absorbed in the filler prior to final paint. The filler is very porous and if the humidity is high can easily allow moisture to come in contact with the base metal promoting rust.

The way I would do it is to weld in all patches then prime any bare metal areas. Spray the epoxy don't brush it on. It's not designed for that. Once you have primed all the bare metal you can take your time doing the bondo work and work on one section at a time knowing the rest of the metal is protected.

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Old 01-27-2004, 09:00 PM
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As centerline said the purpose of the primer FIRST is to protect the bare metal.
Theres nothing wrong with appling filler to bare metal or even epoxy primer. Appling filler over epoxy is NOW a recommened repair process on a few of the EURO cars and I see it coming into the more mainstream cars some time soon.

Before appling just scuff up the epoxy with 80 or even 180 grit just enough to give it some bite. Todays modern fillers no longer need that 24-36 grit gouge. I use nothing but 80 grit on steel and 180 on aluminum everyday at work.
Very rarely do I use 36 grit or anything.

As for bare metal am an etch primer fan. If you look at the big 3's(PPG, Dupont and S-W) warrenty paint process you'll see that ETCH primer is the recommended primer to use on bare metal.

On the tech sheets on PPG's and Dupont's epoxy that stat for MAX performance apply 1 coat of etch primer prior to usage of epoxy on bare metal.

So when I do filler over primer I spray on my etch primer first then apply two coats of epoxy. I like to allow atleast 2 good days for a full cure on epoxy, as epoxy is a somewhat slow drier by nature. Ive seen cases of filler peeling right off the epoxy because people applied it too soon and the still escaping solvents loosened the filler. So make sure you wait long enough.

As for body filler I HIGHLY recommened you to spring the extra cash for some good stuff. You wont believe the difference in fillers. The added ease of application and sanding is WELL WORTH the extra 10 bucks. I highly recommened either of the three, Evercoat's Rage, Rage Gold or the new Xtreme.

The poly glazes like evercoat's metal glaze and poly glaze are meant for a skim coat over small dings and or to finish off a filler repair. After each filler repair I do I skim it with poly glaze because it sands great, feathers out much better makes for a nice repair.

Poly glazes are NOT meant to be used as a regular filler its just meant to be used as a finisher.

Fiberglass fillers are meant to be applied in areas that need more fill or areas where stress might be of concern, as the fibers make the filler stronger. Also they are a tad more water resistant but NOT water proof like the can says. They still contain the same filler material(TALC) as the regular filers.
The downside to that is they dont sand well nor feather out well. They make for a great base filler when you need some fill, just that you want to topcoat with a regular filler or poly glaze to finish it off for a nice repair.

Hopefully that helps...Eric

Last edited by sevt_chevelle; 01-27-2004 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:44 AM
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Thanks sevt-chevelle for the explanation.My main concern was getting filler to stick properlly to the epoxy primer. I see drying timeonthe primer is also a factor, and was not sure how much it needed roughened up.I think I'll do all my patching, finish stripping the whole body now, then etch,prime, and fill , instead of doing it in stages as I had planned.
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