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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2012, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by kenseth17
Well, the all metal fillers (under your bondo) don't absorb water to the extent that regular bodyfiller will, but believe they still do absorb some. Plastic filler absorbs it like a sponge, but keeping some heat on it should eventually evaporate the water from the plastic filler. If that red oxide primer you are talking about was a spray bomb product it is likely lacquer primer, and really isn't protecting anything. If you fillers have soaked up water and it reached the metal, there would be know way of knowing without grinding it out of there . Do you want to take the risk? If this is a cheapy industrial paint, just get some color on the thing paint job, I'd say leave it. If you will be forking out some cash for a quality paint, Grind it out, start over with a good epoxy primer base. The little amount bodyfiller costs compared to quality paint, or even primers isn't really worth taking any risk. It will cost you time, but better then the time and money to do it over later when bondo is bubbling up and rust pushing through. I believe they may make some epoxy which is 1 part, at least i've seen stuff called epoxy in spray cans. I doubt it would be anywhere near as good as the 2k stuff. If you don't have spray equiptment, many epoxy manufacturers say you can apply with a brush or roller, if yo allow the right amount of flash time.

USC All Metal is 15% - 25% talc, so how can it be all metal?, because it bonds to all metals. What a marketing gimmick.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 35WINDOW
I've waited a few hours for one of the "Experts" here to answer this, but I think everyone will agree (maybe? ). From what I have learned, Polyester Bondo has Talc in it, so it has more than likely absorbed the moisture putting Water against bare metal (see where oldred said bond+rain=rust)? You probably now have rust forming UNDER the Bondo, so, in my opinion you will need to start over-

This time, especially in your part of the world, it would make some sense to get it back to bare metal and them Epoxy Prime first, then Bondo-anybody here going to throw me under the Bus?
Not me,your right on...another good reason for epoxy first...
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:01 AM
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all metal is another one of the marketing wonders of the 60's. worst stuff i have ever used. it expands and shrinks for ever. i would remove all of it and start over using better products.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:32 AM
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I just had a car friend over a few day's ago, And we was talking about this very thing... My friend looked at me and said...It can't absorbed the moisture,, It's a plastic filler..

I said YEA !!! OK !!!!!

That's why I'm a strong believer to put epoxy primer first.. Then Filler..
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bullheimer
that would be what i need... or a garage. the camaro goes to a consignment lot on sunday after Goodguys. so my garage will be ready. i used almost a whole $25 quart of All-Metal filler just to do a tiny tiny bit. i kept putting in on with not enough catalyst cause it doesnt change color and having to scrape it off and start over. i just finally got it right when it rained. i have left a halide light under it and it was kinda hot to the touch. i have plastic wrap over it and i havent seen any condensation on the inside of it. there is tape on the top of it. so i am wondering how there could be much water in there if i dont see condensation from water evaporating on the underside of the plastic wrap. either the wind blew the hot vapors away, but i dont see how as i have the sides taped down too, or i didnt get that much absorbsion. either way. it's very hot. i dont see how any water could stay in there at that temp.
This thread isn't going to do you much good if you plug your ears to all the advice offered and keep trying to talk yourself out of doing the correct repair. Skip a step now means 100 additional steps you have to take in the future. I personally would have had it tarped up if I had it in the elements with exposed filler or a primer that's anything less than an epoxy.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:39 AM
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Bondo (or other brand names) are HYGROSCOPIC,that big word means that they absorb water,remove all filler,back to bare metal,epoxy prime,with 2 good coats,then filler on top of the epoxy primer,after you sand your filler,re-apply 2 more coats of epoxy,to seal the filler,then you will be good to MUST seal the filler,BEFORE painting.or the filler will soak up the paint leaving you with a dry area.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:19 AM
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Alright, it failed miserably, the condensation found its way in and collected on the inside of the bag and stayed there long after the outside humidity became dryer. Also the baking soda held the moisture like a sponge. There may not be a good solution for this situation. Check the weather report for the next couple of days before applying Bondo to an outdoor car. I don't think I experienced much of a problem, eventually it dried and although my primer and paint did not adhere well, I had to scrape a lot of it off, the Bondo itself remained strong and so I re-primed and repainted.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:59 PM
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Holy Back from the Dead, Batman!

Well, since i started this thread, my truck has changed paint, (its all urethane epoxy primered), but i still HAD that the same issue, about three months ago, mainly because when i shaved the hood emblem, i had the body shop seal the holes and they welded little inch squares over them on the inside of the hood. well to my dismay, they didn't seal the holes, they did a slitty job. moisture got in there over the years and cracked the bondo up, rust from the inside out. i never did scrape it all off. i finally had to a couple of months ago, naturally, when i put the truck up for sale, i start to fix stuff i shoulda fixed years ago. so i did take it all down to metal, but i did not go back and read this thread first!!!so i didn't epoxy the metal FIRST, but i DID epoxy after. i also took undercoating spray and sprayed over those squares sealing any holes up. so anyway, so far so good, wish i would have done what was on here, but i forgot i wrote this post. i didn't slather it on so thick this time either, and btw, in the first post when i said two and four inches, i'm glad nobody thought i meant THICK! i did mean sideways. oh well, i am happy thinking the undercoating will stop water and that i did go down to bare metal. Should i be?
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:33 PM
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boatbob2 hit it right. Most body fillers are polyester resin, and polyester resins absorb water out of the air even if it does not rain, or even if the humidity is low. Water on bare steel means rust, even if covered with body filler.
Do it right one time, or redo it later. The choice is yours.
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