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Old 07-25-2004, 01:37 PM
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Which bondo should I use?

Alright, I just bought 2 types of bondo. I'll used it to smooth out and hide welds on my bicycle chopper.
Here's a pic of what I wanna bondo. I want the tube to be smooth and not interupted with welds. So I'm gonna bondo over them and sand it smooth.
Now, the 2 types I bought are:
1) Bondo Body Filler (the can that comes with the tube of hardener and that has to be mixed first)
2) Glazing and Spot Putty (the stuff that comes in a tube and you don't have to mix)

So because I didn't know which one to get I got both and probly wasted money.
Which one would you recomend using?

Mike
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Old 07-25-2004, 01:41 PM
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if those are your only options, go with the one that uses the harderer first. the glazing putty won't cut it. use it to put a fine finish after the other putty.

will those welds dress out any better? remember, the closer it starts to perfection, the less work you'll have to do to perfect it.
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Old 07-25-2004, 06:18 PM
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First forget trying to make that look smooth with filler. Grind the welds smooth and then build up a little at a time using the welder. Once you cet it very close then you can use filler to smooth it more.
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:13 AM
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Well, here are a few different ideas to work with, nothing like confusing you.

Bring the "Glazing putty" to get your money back, it is JUNK. You MUST have a product that uses a hardener if you want any quality what so ever. Any "regular" filler is going to do the job to help you shape those areas. Then "polyester putty" to fine tune them.

Now, you don't have to use polyester puttty at all. You could finish the "Bondo" off to perfection if you chose. The polyester putty is just much easier to sand and feather.

“Basics of bondo types”

"Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. Polyester is what fiberglass is made of. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers.
The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass.
The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer . They are JUNK and should not be used.

Some examples of these products are as follows.

“Reinforced” polyester fillers:
These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. I is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.
A Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.

Examples are:
Evercoat’s “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”
3M’s 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.


"Regular" polyester body fillers:
Evercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.
3M's Lightweight body filler #058001

Polyester putties:
Evercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.
3M's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821 .

"Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.
Evercoat's "Ever-glaze" #403
3M's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966
Dupont’s 2286S, PPG’s DFL17

I personally recommend Evercoat products.


As far welding and grinding the welds down so no plastic filler is needed, sure, if you have the time to learn it, go for it. It is another option and a darn good one to strive for. If it is overwelming, then just use the filler and be done with it.

Most of all, just have fun with the darn thing.
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Old 07-26-2004, 09:47 AM
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Just to clarifyi I did not say try and work to the point of no filler, that will be next to impossible for most, myself included.

But from what I see that is a set of forks on a bike and if you extended them they will flex. A little filler will flex but a lot will just crumble off. Just grind it smooth, if you have a hole hit it with the welder to fill it then grind. You do not need to be a good welder to do it, your not looking for penetration or anyhting right here you just want to fill a hole. Then you can skim it with filler. Truse me it will be much easier and quicker in the end than trying to bring that big weld flat with filler alone.
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Old 07-26-2004, 11:04 AM
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i agree the spot putty is crap. doesnt seem to stick to anything. love that evercoat glazing stuff. for most stuff i'm only using All Metal bondo now
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:12 PM
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MARTINSR makes all of my replies look like ******.
good job. i'm still learning, thakns to you.

evercoat/rage is the stuff.
but for jacking around, you can learn as well with cheap stuff as you can with the more expensive stuff.
i can guarantee that 85 to 90% of the filler i've used has ended up on the floor when it was done. but use the best you can afford to on anything you do.

return that crap finish putty you got, it is worthless.
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Old 07-26-2004, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
return that crap finish putty you got, it is worthless.
It's not worthless I tried it on wood projects and it worked so it was better than throwing it out Now I would not use it on fine wood stuff but simple crap why not. I built a center console to hold a TV, invertor and PS2 to go on vacation. It does not stay in the truck just in and out for trips but I wanted it to look OK. So the screw holes were all filled with finish putty.
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Old 07-26-2004, 05:38 PM
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Before I even got replies on this thread I went ahead and used the putty
It's not tooooooooooo bad but it takes a LOT to make the welds smooth. I applied a THICK coat and let it dry for 24 hours. Then sanded everything down. There's more to the story you guys don't know. I also welded metal sleeves over the welds I showed you above. I then grinded the welds smooth and like I mentioned, filled it all with putty. It's not as smooth as I tought it'd be. I'm gonna go ahead and use the real stuff......cause this stuff is a pain in the butt.

Mike
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