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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2005, 11:24 AM
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I have read thru the old posts on this thread, but it didn't help me. I have the entire rear end/ drivshaft out of the car because beside a clutch spring going south, I also had a leak at the rear of the "R10". I took the end bell off the overdrive and made a gasket for it and reassembled the overdrive. I tried to manually drive the OD to see if indeed it will work. By either manually energizing the solenoid or by shoving a dowel rod up the solenoid hole, I can feel the pawl engaging into the sun gear and when I manualyl drive the torque tube but when I slow down and rev back up, the OD stays in 1:1. The only thing I can think of is that I might need some resistance at the output shaft to force the blocking plate to engage the pinion cage.
I'm trying to find out before I put the whole rear end back in, that I have a problem.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2005, 08:05 PM
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Farna covers the unit pretty well. They don't automatically go into OD at 25-30 mph, you have the let up on the gas very slightly to activate the solonoid.
I have the orignal set up in two of my cars - a '50 Frazer and a '53 Kaiser Traveler. With the original set up; solonoid, cut-out relay, governor, kick-down switch, and rail switch (and all the wiring harness) they are fabulous units. The one on my Frazer shifts so smoothly you can hardly detect it sifting to o.d. By-passing the original setup can lead to a look of problems if the sequence of shifting is not in sequence. Also, I wouldn't beat them to hard as they were mostly used in low h.p., low torque engines for the time period. Many years ago I had a '46 Merc coupe with '56 Buick engine, 3-2s, headers and a Columbia Two-Speed Rear - that unit is another story!
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Old 12-23-2005, 09:08 AM
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R10 Borg-Warner

I checked the Farna web site and they had an article in Issue #19 Dec 2001 about a 55-Nash OD. I couldn't find anything else. I picked up a spare U-joint with a six-spline end. I'm going to weld a old 1/2" drive socket to it so I can spin the OD unit with my air gun. Since I had a leak at the back of the OD, I hope there was enough oil left in the OD so the pinion assembly didn't
lock up. I did get a condensed R10 manual from www.oldcarmanual.com web site. The electrical drawing in the manual is not very intuitive, so I redrew it. If anyone wants a PDF copy let me know. The manual tells you how it should operate, how to disassemble & reassemble the OD, but it doesn't cover how to test it out when it's out of the car.
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Old 12-24-2005, 06:35 PM
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R-10 OD to Saginaw 4 sp

I have heard and read here that it is possible to install a BW OD from a 3 speed trans to a 4 speed Saginaw. I have been told that it's just a matter of moving parts from one trans to the other. Has anybody done this? Any help or advise, either negative or positive, on doing this conversion would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-24-2005, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0L50GMC
I have heard and read here that it is possible to install a BW OD from a 3 speed trans to a 4 speed Saginaw. I have been told that it's just a matter of moving parts from one trans to the other. Has anybody done this? Any help or advise, either negative or positive, on doing this conversion would be greatly appreciated.

No, the case and the guts of an R-10 is totally unique and no part is interchangable or can be "put in" a regular 3-speed or 4-speed case. Even the case for the o.d. is unique. It's possible that it could be connected with a 3-speed (that's what was initially done), maybe it's possible with a 4 speed, but the critical part that is need is a main shaft that would hook up correctly with the o.d..
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Old 12-26-2005, 09:54 AM
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who wants a photo of the r10?

i'm getting ready to list this trans on ebay but i want to find the particulars if anyone wants a good pic of it e-mail me at powerzap69@yahoo.com this is an electric overdrive 3-4 spd and if anyone can cross reference some numbers id love to hear from you this is a gm version
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Old 12-26-2005, 10:07 AM
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every trans is marked with the % reduction

i'm by no meens an expert but with the research i've done today i've noticed there all marked with the percent on the side mine is a19%2 with a number r10k1 complete down to the solanoid and spedo even has the origional levers from the shifter. but no shifter
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Old 12-26-2005, 10:23 AM
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cooling this sucker should be easy

hope this reply comes in time to help you with your wrecker. sounds like youve got one heck of a nice set up, have you ever thought about plumbing in a simple trans cooler to the drain and fill holes? that would add about half a quart of fluid and it would circulate itself by heat if you left it ether below the trans or to the side of it. kinda like on the big trucks just let gravity do the work. dont know how much room you have to play with but it wouldn't be to bad of a hook up.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2005, 08:44 AM
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GSHOOLEY, the OD isn't hard to check out of the car. The test below assumes the OD unit is still on the transmission. If not, you'll need to stick something in where the trans output shaft enters the OD so the unit can be turned. A broom handle or dowel with a slight taper on the end can be jammed in easy enough.

1. Push the lever on the side of the OD unit forward. This is the "lock-out" lever.

2. Put the transmission in high gear (1:1) and turn the input shaft. With the OD locked out the output of the OD should turn at the same speed as the input shaft.

3. Turn the output shaft of the OD. The input shaft of the trans should turn at the same speed.

4. Now push the lock-out lever to the rear. Turn the input shaft of the trans -- the output shaft should turn at the same speed again since the OD unit hasn't kicked in.

5. Now turn the output shaft of the OD. The trans input shaft SHOULD NOT turn! If it does, hold the input shaft and turn the OD output. The input shaft SHOULD NOT turn.

If the input shaft turns with the lock-out lever in OD, one of two things is wrong -- the one-way clutch is hung up or the planetary gearset is brocken and jammed inside the drum gear attached to the output shaft. It is rare that the one-way clutch is broken. If to much torque is applied when the planetary is oging into or coming out of OD, one of the planetary shafts will break, letting the gear fall out of place and jamming the unit. The planetary set and the drum gear/output shaft (they are made together as a unit) must be replaced. That's why the unit won't go into OD until you let off the gas pedal a bit, and why the solenoid shorts out the coil for a split second before going out of OD. If you just wire power to the solenoid the unit will work, but you have to make SURE you are coasting or use the clutch to shift out of OD. That means no quick drops out of OD for accelerating, which can be dangerous, but should be no worse than downshifting a manual trans. Just hit the clutch before the power switch, and give it a half second to drop out of OD.

A friend of my father's who used to burn the streets up in a 50 Ford w/built 312 T-bird engine and OD would blow one occsionally when he'd forget to lock it out before street racing. At high speed in second he'd quickly shift into third and the OD would try to come in during the shift. The OD takes just a slight bit more time to engage than the clutch. With the OD just starting to engage the clutch was let out and throttle on the floor, popping the planetary shafts. When this happens the OD just jams, leaving the tranny a standard three speed with no high gear any more. At least it doesn't strand you!

For an easier to read wiring diagram check this AMC site: http://www.amccf.com/main.html. Click on "Tech Info" then scroll down to the "Electrical" section. You'll find a couple early 60s Rambler OD diagrams. The 1950s wiring for some cars, as in the manual from the website in a previous post, is a bit complicated. The Rambler diagrams are much easier to follow.
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