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Old 10-30-2009, 08:28 AM
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Boring a vortec 5300 to an LS1.

Chevyhiperformance did an article a couple weeks ago saying that you can get a vortec 5300 engine which has a 3.780" bore and a 3.622" stroke, and bore it out to 3.900" and you will have the displacement of a 5.7L LS1. I was wondering if anyone had experience with this. They said there is enough wall thickness to do this. I want to get a hold of some LS blocks to do future builds and ls1 blocks are expensive. So i figured it i could get a 5.3L block which are all over my local boneyard for $100 bucks, it would be worth grabbing a few. Thanks for any tips.

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Old 11-02-2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
Chevyhiperformance did an article a couple weeks ago saying that you can get a vortec 5300 engine which has a 3.780" bore and a 3.622" stroke, and bore it out to 3.900" and you will have the displacement of a 5.7L LS1. I was wondering if anyone had experience with this. They said there is enough wall thickness to do this. I want to get a hold of some LS blocks to do future builds and ls1 blocks are expensive. So i figured it i could get a 5.3L block which are all over my local boneyard for $100 bucks, it would be worth grabbing a few. Thanks for any tips.

The cast iron 5300 engine can be bored to 99mm which is a .11 inch overbore! Haven't seen blocks with this much metal since the early 1960s This gives a 346 inch engine which is 5.67 liters.

The aluminum block's sleeves not so much, though there are ways to punch the aluminum block the same as the cast iron version, there aren't any cheap ways to do this. The factory recommends no more than .030, which only gets you to 332 inches cubed with the aluminum block.

Bogie
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:17 PM
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so cast iron is the way to go. If i were to use an aluminum block would i have to have new sleeves installed?
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
so cast iron is the way to go. If i were to use an aluminum block would i have to have new sleeves installed?

You got it.

To get to a 99mm bore on aluminum the existing sleeve has to be bored out. Given that the GM sleeves have a finned (what they call serrated) back side, the bore has to be big enough to take all the back side material out. Then a new smooth sided sleeve is pressed in. The cost of doing this will off set anything, and then some, that you saved by using a 5300 block.

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Old 11-02-2009, 12:47 PM
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Cool i will have to take a trip up with my truck to get one then. Thanks for the help. What is the point of using serrated sleeves?
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:59 PM
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Cool i will have to take a trip up with my truck to get one then. Thanks for the help. What is the point of using serrated sleeves?
Used to anchor the sleeve to the block and provide more heat transfer area to the cooling system across the material type change. Both of these have been big problems for sleeved engines forever, GM found a clever solution.

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Old 03-27-2010, 08:07 AM
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Sorry for digging this up but had a few more questions. My and my machinist were gonna sit down and bore one of these engines to the 3.900" bore of an LS1. But we were thinking about maybe going to a 4" bore. We are gonna have the block sonic checked before and after the original 3.780" bore and the 3.900" bore. What should be left for wall thickness after the 3.900" bore to safely take it to a 4" bore. Thanks everyone!
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
Sorry for digging this up but had a few more questions. My and my machinist were gonna sit down and bore one of these engines to the 3.900" bore of an LS1. But we were thinking about maybe going to a 4" bore. We are gonna have the block sonic checked before and after the original 3.780" bore and the 3.900" bore. What should be left for wall thickness after the 3.900" bore to safely take it to a 4" bore. Thanks everyone!
At a minimum, there needs to be 0.160" wall. This should be considered at the low limit and more is definitely preferred. Some will say 0.125" is sufficient- I do not buy into this- there's too much chance of poor ring seal or outright failure- but because of the longer rod and less sideloading, you might get away w/it. Your machinist should already be up to speed on this, so see what he has to say.

Simply put- by everything that I've heard- you will not have sufficient thickness to take the bore to 4" w/o a sleeve. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the 5.3L block is similar to the LS1 physically (obviously iron) and as such, will take the same 3.9" bore- plus a 0.030" overbore and that's it. And I wouldn't even try that, w/o a sonic verification that there was sufficient bore thickness to support decent ring seal/durability.

There's just not much support for building the 5.3L in general. Most will say to stay w/a 346 cid (LS1 bore of 3.9") when using the 5.3L as a base, or a "383" by using the LS1's bore and a 4" arm.

I understand what you're wanting to do, and wish you well- but I'm thinking that if it were doable, it would be a common know practice. But it's not.

If this turns out to not be true, let us know.

Last edited by cobalt327; 03-27-2010 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 10:50 AM
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thanks cobalt! i will sonic check the block after the 3.9" bore and see what I got. Like u said more people would be doing it if it was doable. Either way I can get the 5.3 blocks for cheap so what the heck might as well try it and see what I get. My machinist allows me to use his boring machine also so it will be free labor also.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
thanks cobalt! i will sonic check the block after the 3.9" bore and see what I got. Like u said more people would be doing it if it was doable. Either way I can get the 5.3 blocks for cheap so what the heck might as well try it and see what I get. My machinist allows me to use his boring machine also so it will be free labor also.
That's a heck of a deal. I'm guessing you'll be supplying the 'adult beverages'! lol

But yeah. Those 5.3L engines are tempting.

IIRC, CC or HR did a cam swap on a 5.3L, w/a carb, and used that MSD box to make the thing run, and got 433HP @ 6800 RPM(!) and torque peaked at 381 lb/ft @ 5400 RPM, so this would be needing a LOT of gear and converter.

These numbers were made using stock B&S, stock unported heads, and a THUMPER cam! W/a 'decent' cam, I could see this being better.

Still, for an undersquare 323 cid engine- not too shabby.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
That's a heck of a deal. I'm guessing you'll be supplying the 'adult beverages'! lol
Haha mine likes pizza and wings lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
But yeah. Those 5.3L engines are tempting.

IIRC, CC or HR did a cam swap on a 5.3L, w/a carb, and used that MSD box to make the thing run, and got 433HP @ 6800 RPM(!) and torque peaked at 381 lb/ft @ 5400 RPM, so this would be needing a LOT of gear and converter.

These numbers were made using stock B&S, stock unported heads, and a THUMPER cam! W/a 'decent' cam, I could see this being better.

Still, for an undersquare 323 cid engine- not too shabby.
Wow that not bad for a thumper. I wanted to get a hold of some l92 heads but i guess they won't work with anything under a 4" bore. But still though those are impressive numbers. I'll let u guys know how it turns out.
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
I wanted to get a hold of some l92 heads but i guess they won't work with anything under a 4" bore.
Actually, the month after the test I was talking about, I think was where they bolted up a set of L92 heads on the 5.3L.

EDIT- The article actually says "stay tuned for even more next month- NOT that they were going to use the L92's. It wasn't in the next month's issue, in any event- nothing about the 5.3L build, nada, like it never happened!

So, what the "More" part is, I don't know.

But the likelihood of those L92 heads fitting- OR making "better" power, is slim to none. The engine is already spinning close to 7000 RPM w/the stock heads.

W/ported stock heads they got the power up to 460 HP @ 6800 RPM/ 396 TQ @ 5400 RPM.

Last edited by cobalt327; 03-27-2010 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:37 PM
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What are avg flow numbers for these stock 15 degree heads? Just looking for an approx range.

Got this from another forum
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...=122987.0;wap2


Casting Number 706 and 862
Head: 1999+ 4.8L / 5.3 Liter Truck
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559862
12561706
Combustion Chamber Volume: 61.15cc
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Intake Port Volume: 200cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 70cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 1.89 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches

Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 61.15 cc----0.100--0.200--0.300-- 0.400--0.500---0.550---0.600
Intake 200 cc----------63 ---128----179-----210----218----221-----226
Exhaust 70 cc----------54 -- 93 ----121----145-----163----168----174


What you need to know:
These small combustion chamber truck heads offer no advantage over an LS1 head except the smaller combustion chamber. This along with milling of the deck surface will allow a slightly higher compression ratio to be achieved. Because of the smaller intake valve installed in these heads a valve upgrade is practically mandatory.

Last edited by zildjian4life218; 03-27-2010 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:03 PM
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Stock 5.3L alum. head
1.89/1.55 valves
60cc chamber
205cc port
Test done w/a 3.78" bore fixture.

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Old 03-27-2010, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Stock 5.3L alum. head
1.89/1.55 valves
60cc chamber
205cc port
Test done w/a 3.78" bore fixture.

Awesome!! thanks again
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