Bowlegged 40 ford mustang II, see pictures - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:59 AM
Footstomper
 

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Bowlegged 40 ford mustang II, see pictures

When I bought the C.E. bolt-on, the guy adjusted on the top hat with the screw at the highest, and it worked. I talked to a builder, he says it is fine. Or, you could knock off the top to the lower frame and put a 4 by 2 channel under. But looking at what I have now, I don't think I could change it with those wild springs, unless I get a shorter springs.

With as what I have in the pictures, I was told that the springs will settle, it is stiff. The guy says not drive it at over 100 mph or drag races.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:45 PM
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Acouple hundred miles should settle the springs with all the rest of the parts on. The lower A arms should end up level with the bottom of the Xmember. If not then start cutting off some cpring a little at a time.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:23 PM
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cape cod bob

I looked at your model A sedan, it is looking good. You have alot of information on your space. Thank you to comment about my problems on the FIRST mustang II. How many Mustang II kits to work with, seems you know what to do it right. You are there to help in the fight, that bolt-on (With 26 drills into the frame using the drill doctor), I had boxed the frame before putting getting in tight bolts, lock washers and nuts.
I have a 75' Cadillac 500, I would have thought the springs would settle down, but no. Is it dangerous to drive it like it is, can you give me some tips about driving in the break-in?

I had some gave me to get me started, I was happy to get help, it was over my head. I am glad you helped to just push me to have a nice ride. My next will be using a 40 column with shifter to the TH400 to the rack and steering.

Thanks to all that answered me, thanks Cape Cod Bob!
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:49 PM
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You have way too stiff springs. Speedway lists 6 springs now I think. 3 are the stock length and 3 are the 'short' springs. There is also a chart in their catalog. I'd guess you have about 85% of the finished weight on the front now. If you talk nice to them they will let you buy one set and exchange them if they are too stiff or not stiff enough. Just don't scar them up.
Here is the page. You will need to read it over a bit.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustan...rome,7771.html
I think the 11 inch spring is what you will need.
I have QA-1 coil overs and use a 375# spring. This is too stiff even for my Willys. But it is all that is available for my set up.

Must II lower a-arms need to be about parallel to the ground to be correct. You can get away with a little plus or minus but not a lot. You have a lot. It's possible you may have to use dropped spindles to get it right..
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Old 06-06-2010, 06:21 AM
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That's a cool Willys

What motor do you have? Is it steel? It looks original whether fiberglass, they are cool. I saw a Willys, steel in a three sided barn, the 426 hemi was out of it. It was racing near Jasper, Alabama at Lynn in Winston county. It had roll cage. i still look at that picture of that monster, I saw it in 1976, it had racing in late 50's to late 60's, it was blue with a stripes from the rear fenders going the front hood, hat sidewinder with 426 Hemi on the hood and a hole for a blower. A straight axle in front. I could not tell what rear was. There was a 33-34 steel 5 window coupe, cut for round racing, said Pogo with a possum on the side, and a 32 tudor blue body and black fenders, the flatty was out, but it was really nice.
Funny thing about this, I knocked on he door and he came out with a shotgun and a bible. He told me not to come back.
I believe those cars when to a storage in Birmingham, Ala.

Sorry, I like Willys. Back to the springs, I saw the speedway spring. My beef about the 40', I want a stock looking car. As it is, I can turn the front tires without hitting the fenders. To get the parallel lower A arms would need a block under the frame and your springs suggested. I would have to cut on left and right outters to make a channels to slide in the frames. Then, and in the lower middles for the C.E.bolt-on size to the accomomate maybe 3 or 4" with the top hats would be fill the gap and I would have achieved the right stance.

I had no springs just rods holding the parallel lower arms, I put my fender on the frame, and the tires hit fenders. I am not in a round races, I like straight take off, and look like a original standard ford.

I appreciate your suggestions, I may drive it as now and see if it settles.

Thanks, I am a newby mmII learning veteran.
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