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Old 12-30-2007, 05:58 PM
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Boxed frame, now how do I bolt the cab?

Im just in the middle of boxing the frame. everyone else that i have seen done it boxes it completly then put the crossmembers in. but once the frame is boxed how is the cab and all of the other brackets that mount to the frame attached? ive got a 36 chev truck.

also for a tranny mount would it be enough to just weld to the inside plate and not cut a hole and weld to the outside plate in the box? how bout for a crossmembers at the rear? im supercharging it. thanks!

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Old 12-30-2007, 07:16 PM
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This shows my 32 Ford original chassis that has been boxed. I always weld up nuts inside the frame before boxing it. I do this for all the body mounts and fender mounts ... anything that needs bolted ... gets a square nut welded in place. I like to make my crossmember for the transmission like shown above.



This is the frame in a home made rotisserie ( for painting ) It shows how braced up the chassis is. With a roadster body ... you get no strength for the chassis from a roadster body ... sort of like with a pickup ... With a coupe or a sedan ... the body helps the chassis some.

When in doubt ... make it stout
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:25 PM
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cab mounts

Hi,there is an item called a nut-sert(i THINK i got mine from NAPA),what you do to use them is drill a hole in the chassis,then put the nut-sert into a tool,kinda like a pop rivet tool,when you squeeze the handle the nut sert collapses,and leaves the threaded part inside,then you unscrew the tool,and viola,you have a threaded insert. hope this helps.
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:58 PM
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sweet! i will buy that mechanism because i have not got all the nuts and bolts needed to re-install everything.

i see you welded the tranny c-member to the inside plate and not through to the outside. how about the other crossmembers?
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:10 PM
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Boxed all the way ... then put the crossmembers in ...

Most nut serts are aluminum ...



There are steel ones but pulling a 3/8ths 16 steel nut sert is rough ...

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Old 12-31-2007, 06:59 AM
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The NutZert is NOT what you need, as Deuce stated most are aluminum and a 3/8"X16 (is what you need) steel one is going to be VERY tough to install. Also the NutZert is no where near as stong as a regular nut welded to the underside. They are OK for mounting stuff like rear view mirrors to door skins, not for critical stuff like body to frame attachment.

Vince

Last edited by 302 Z28; 12-31-2007 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:09 AM
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I've used the 3/8-16 steel ones with the serrations on little T buckets, but don't use them on a frame with a heavy steel body..



They can be installed with the T handle type tool, but it is impossible to use the smaller handheld pop rivit type tool on the larger sizes. (5/16" is about the biggest I can get in, then I'm scared of breaking the tool.)


I won't use the 2 piece aluminum ones on anything...ever.
(they become 2 pieces once installed )



I have had to put threads in a frame that someone has boxed, I get a "heavy" plain steel 3/8-16 or 7/16-14 hex nut, drill a hole in the frame just big enough to pound the nut in so it's flush, then TIG weld all around. If you use the "heavy" hex nut, you lessen the chance of melting the threads and it gives a larger welded area,(=stronger attachment).

If you are going to mig weld the nut in, bevel the frame and nut some so you don't grind the weld all away when you finish it..

Mcmaster carr has a good selection of plain heavy nuts.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCt...MMainWidth=812



Later, mikey
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Last edited by powerrodsmike; 12-31-2007 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:20 AM
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I think the best way would be to drill 1 1/2" to 2" holes in the frame to get access to the undeside of holes. This will not weaken the frame.

Don Meyer-Mech Engr.
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:34 AM
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Boxed frame

I use to have a problem with the body mount holes in the body lining up with the nuts I welded inside the frame rails. It seemed I always had to open the holes up in the body. What I've been doing lately is to use a piece of 1 1/4'' X 2 1/2'' X 14ga. with a 1/4'' offset hat section and a piece of 1/4'' stock with a threaded hole in it. Then I drill the hole in the frame rail 1/8'' oversize. Sure makes things a lot easier. I know this isn't very original, it's just like Henry's cage nut, but it works.

Youngster

PS... The fun part is fishing this down inside of a piece of tubing!
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