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Old 12-08-2012, 11:31 PM
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cobalt327 cobalt327 is offline
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Originally Posted by trillobite View Post
I bought a 350 long block in the past off craigslist, long story short, it never seemed to sound or run quite right, so I tore it down to find all the bearings were demolished by a little bit of sand (this wont happen again), and the driver side head was warped. Heads casting number showed that they were crack prone, already had other heads ordered up waiting for them to crack.

I have a few basic parts that I already have for the new engine:
-Comp Cams Aluminum heads with .650 grade lift springs, 2.02/1.90 valves 64cc chamber, 190cc runners, with 3/8 studs and guide plates (brand new).
-Fel Pro 1003 Head gaskets .041 compressed (brand new).
-ARP Head Bolts.

Valve Train:
-1.5 stainless full roller rockers (brand new).
-Engle EP-26/28 .520lift with 1.5 rockers, 288 advertised duration, 108 LSA, with hydraulic lifters (off old engine, looks brand new).

-Holley 600cfm Double Pumper, mechanical secondaries/choke Aluminum Fuel Bowls, with aluminum heat sheild.
-Holley Street Dominator Open Plenum Aluminum Intake.

Going to be in a 1952 GMC long-bed pickup, manual 4spd. Saginaw tranny with Hurst shifter, Posi-traction rear (unknown gearing guessing in the low 3's), no power ANYTHING, no ac or heater. Dual 2.5in exhaust with the old cherry bomb long glass packs. Aluminum plate instead of an oak bed, apparently weighs total, less than 3500 pounds.

Here's where the interesting stuff begins, I decided that I should just get a new short block since I do not have all the required tools other than the normal socket wrenches and torque wrenches to completely rebuild from a bare block after the machine shop, and I need something working very soon.

I not only want to use the parts that I have already bought, but I am nearly forced to by my budget of $2000. I have been browsing around after doing lots of research and have not found much of any engine blocks that will work for me.

#1: my cam states that it requires 10 - 10.5:1 compression. Blocks are either less than 9.5:1 or greater than 11:1 compression
#2: In order to get proper quench (.040), the deck clearance must be flush with the piston since my head gasket is already at .041!
#3: 383's seem to have the compression that I need, but all so far only include flexplates and no balanced flywheels for manual transmission cars.

My worst fear is to have to resort to a 190HP stock GM crate 350, crappy gas mileage and crappy power is not appealing when there are lots of big long hills and lots of trash can muffled hondas lol.

Any thoughts, opinions, advice? How can I use the parts that I already have within my budget most effectively? All comments are welcome, and all help is greatly appreciated!
Comp cams doesn't make cylinder heads.

If you build an engine w/too much compression, you can run out of octane unless you want to run it on race gas or E85. So do not be tempted to run 11:1 on pump gas. Running a big cam only partially crutches the need for octane- the quench distance has to be spot on, and a big cam also requires a low rear gear, and unless you have an OD tranny to crutch that up, you'll be miserable driving any distance with =/> 4.56:1 rear gears.

In a truck I suspect strongly that you'll be a lot happier w/a 9-9.5:1 compression engine and a cam to match. If the lifters were mixed up and not placed exactly back on the same lobe they came from originally, the cam and lifters are junk, anyway.

Last edited by cobalt327; 12-08-2012 at 11:44 PM.
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