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Old 10-06-2008, 05:18 PM
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Brake bleeders

What do you all use for bleeding brakes. Im looking for some kind of bleeder that makes it a one man job, easy and painless.
My wife and kids are getting tired of pumping the pedal all the time, even though they have gotten good at it.
Thanks , Gene

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Old 10-06-2008, 05:23 PM
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Vacuum pump and a canister to receive the fluid, still need a helper to push the pedal down however.
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:56 PM
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Speed bleeders.

Vince
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:03 PM
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brake bleeding

Hafton
I use a pump oil can with a fuel hose which I put on the pump spout and the other end on the bleeder. Onced hooked up, loosen the bleeder and start pumping. Sorry, start with an empty master cyl. I start with the wheel far-est from the master cyl. kind of shake the pump to tell how much fluid is in the pump canister to prevent it running empty. If in dout, stop and look in the pot and refill., don't disconnect the hose and you want loose the primed pump and hose. If you have to remove it, be sure you close the bleeder first. When start back, purge the hose by priming to until fluid is at the end of the hose and reconnect to the bleeder. I keep some fluid need so I don't have to remove the hose once I start until finish. The master cyl. will have to be emptied as it fills. If you're lucky and have two pumps, just remove the pump from the canister and place it in the master cyl. and pump it down (empty). After 2 canisters of fluid, it should have pushed all the air to the master cyl. Go to the next fur-est wheel and start all over as before. Just continue until you done all 4 wheels. I learned this on a 1 ton dump I couldn't get the air from. I have a plate that fastens on top of the master cyl. which you put air pressure on to push fluid to the cyl with, but it PITA to use cause you got to keep taking it off to refill the master cyl. If you got so help, and there eyes aren't to bad and there thumb is in good condition, they can keep the master cyl from running over. lol
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:06 AM
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http://www.brakebleeder.com/faqs.php
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Old 10-07-2008, 09:24 AM
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I have a Mity Vac that works just OK once you have fluid at the caliper/wheel cylinder. I do have Dorman (Russell) Speed Bleeders on my '06 F350 as well as the four Wilwood's on my avatar car. The Wilwoods need two per caliper rather then the one per on my truck. The Speed Bleeders are great though I have heard of folks that are skeptical of the sealant on their threads. So far, not a problem for me.

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Old 10-07-2008, 10:07 AM
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Earls has bleeder valves that work only one way. When you pump they push out fluid but won't suck air back in.
There are also pneumatic air bleeders Griots Garage has them. You put an air hose to the pump, then attach the small hose to the bleeder, then push down on the handle and it sucks the fluid thru the bleeder into a cannister.
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsetdart
Earls has bleeder valves that work only one way. When you pump they push out fluid but won't suck air back in.
There are also pneumatic air bleeders Griots Garage has them. You put an air hose to the pump, then attach the small hose to the bleeder, then push down on the handle and it sucks the fluid thru the bleeder into a cannister.
Earl's, Russell and Dorman are all the same - just repackaged
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
The Speed Bleeders are great though I have heard of folks that are skeptical of the sealant on their threads. So far, not a problem for me.

Dave W
I have them also on my Wilwood calipers and so far no problem. They sure do make it easy.

Vince
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
I have them also on my Wilwood calipers and so far no problem. They sure do make it easy.

Vince
....it leaves the little lady to what she can probably do much better.

Mine .... I recall my words well "pump it - hold! Aw s#$%, I said HOLD, DAMMIT"

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Old 10-07-2008, 03:45 PM
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What size speed bleeders do you think would work for a GM caliper (pre metric).
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:16 PM
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Rather then one of us try to guess which ones you need, here's the Summit page;

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...1&autoview=sku

You probably have to pull one of the existing to make sure whether it's 5/16 or 3/8 (and not the metrics)

Dave W
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:20 PM
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Thanks for the input guys.
Gene
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:32 AM
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Here is a little side thought. I have residual valves on both the front and rear brakes. This means that there is some residual pressure in the lines at the brakes. So... that being the case it would mean that fluid can't easily flow back to the MC. You should be able to just open the farthest bleeder and pump the MC. Then go to the shorter one. At least I think so. Any one who has tried this???

I'll try it this weekend as I need to bleed my brakes again after installing a new front hose.
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
Here is a little side thought. I have residual valves on both the front and rear brakes. This means that there is some residual pressure in the lines at the brakes. So... that being the case it would mean that fluid can't easily flow back to the MC. You should be able to just open the farthest bleeder and pump the MC. Then go to the shorter one. At least I think so. Any one who has tried this???

I'll try it this weekend as I need to bleed my brakes again after installing a new front hose.
I think you might have a problem - remember that discs have a retracting mechanism (the o-ring around the piston) and drums have return springs, both of which will be trying to pull the friction material away from either the rotor or drum. While it might be only a fraction of a second as you are removing your foot from the brake pedal, it might be enough to pull in a couple of air bubbles and there will be some bleed by at the resids. But.....of course I've been wrong at least once before

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