[APalusky]

Bleeding the brakes on my 37 Ford. fronts are disc. They work fine.. Backs are the problem.. I have one of those Adjustable proportioning valves. Which way should I turn it to get more rear brake pressure?? On the knob it says "less pressure" and a direction to turn it. I turned it the other way. It doesn't seem to help.. My wife can step on the brake, and I can still turn the rear drums. The fronts won't move.. There is fluid comming out the rear bleeders. I have a clear tube on it. It just doesn't seem to puse the fluid very fast.. Any help Please..

[Frisco]

Originally Posted by APalusky

Bleeding the brakes on my 37 Ford. fronts are disc. They work fine.. Backs are the problem.. I have one of those Adjustable proportioning valves. Which way should I turn it to get more rear brake pressure?? On the knob it says "less pressure" and a direction to turn it. I turned it the other way. It doesn't seem to help.. My wife can step on the brake, and I can still turn the rear drums. The fronts won't move.. There is fluid comming out the rear bleeders. I have a clear tube on it. It just doesn't seem to puse the fluid very fast.. Any help Please..

The adjustable proportioning valves I have used will yield full pressure when screwed all the way in (clockwise). Counterclockwise reduces the pressure. All the way out will reduce the pressure up to 60%.

Volume is probably what you need to get the drum brakes in the rear to work better and lock up the drums. Check the volume of the reservoir for the master cylinder to assure that you have enough capacity..

First thing I'd do is to adjust the shoes of the rear drum brakes. If the shoes are too far away from the drums, the travel required is greater than the master cylinder can yield. They should have just a very light drag or scrubbing sound when no brake pressure is being applied and you spin the rear wheel by hand.

[APalusky]

Thanks. Something I will need is brakes.. The rear was in the frame when I got it. it has a 8" center.. How do I go about buying shoes for it?? Wouldn't I need to know what year Ford rear end it is?? The drums are a little rusty, but not bad. I think they can be cleaned up. The springs inside look clean and newer. The wheel cylinders move ok as well.. The self adjusters move, but again kind of hard. The drums moved rather freely.. There was no friction. I will try to adjust it and see if that helps..

[eloc431962]

Tear one side down and take the shoes with you they can measure them and match them up at the parts place. And the drum should have #s on it if not take one with you also if you need them. the adjusters should be easy to fix spray them down after you remove them and turn them all the way out and clean them up with a wire wheel and re-spray and screw them back together.
Frisco is correct first try adjusting them.

Cole

[APalusky]

I was able to adjust one side. I am going to buy one of those $5. tools. it should make it alot easier. On the drivers side rear. I can still slide the drum off. I only have the car about 15" off the floor.. The tool should work better than the hit and miss that I am doing now.. Al

[454 Rattler]

Frisco is correct. Turn the knob in to gain more pressure. I had a problem with my rears not working. I found that I was adjusting the wrong way.

Remember to adjust the knob IN for MORE PRESSURE.


454 RATTLER

[APalusky]

You were right. Using the tool I turned it the right way so that I got drag. Wors fine now.. Thanks..

[Frisco]

Originally Posted by APalusky

You were right. Using the tool I turned it the right way so that I got drag. Wors fine now.. Thanks..

Glad to hear you got the brakes working.

Not re-adjusting the shoes in drum brakes is often overlooked when trying to correct for a low pedal and poor brake function. Always adjust the brakes first.

[APalusky]

Thanks.. That makes it another step foward. Now with the steering column thing.. It makes it two steps back..