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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2012, 09:30 AM
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I think it's time to try a different master cylinder. If the one you have is still under warranty, ask for a replacement. Something is not right in there.

Dave.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2012, 09:56 PM
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I Agree

I've got the car home now and pulled the motor out for a swap but I think I will contact the place I bought it from ans see if I can exchange it. That's part of the problem when a person buys online, it makes it a little harder exchanging parts especially when you live in Canada. I appreciate everyone's help...Thanks
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:07 AM
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You should always bench bleed a new master and when you call the supplier it will probably be the first thing they ask if you did,so take it off and do it then re-install and see what happens,you may be surprised.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:54 PM
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I Will

I have to pull the booster and cylinder off to do the engine swap so I'll bleed it in a vice before I put it back on...
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:14 PM
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I to put disk on front of my 59 Biz. Drums on rear, I ran new lines to the front same size as orig. Hooked up to dual m/c no booster or pro valve. It was hard to bleed but with a good brother and a lot of pumps there ok. It just takes some foot power to stop the car Sounds like you got air leak start in rear across and to front. Good luck
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:42 PM
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I'm Back

I switched out the motor and now I have bench bled the master cylinder and it looked fine. I put it back on the car and started bleeding the brakes, starting with the pass rear and then the drivers side rear. Everything is going well. I move to the pass front disc and there's no flow. I remove the line to that caliper from the proportioning valve and pump the pedal, no flow. I remove the line into the proportioning valve from the master cylinder and no flow. I am at a loss at what to try next..
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:47 PM
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Question

I'm wondering how far the rod on the output of the booster should move when the pedal is pressed ? Can it move too much and push the piston in the master cylinder too far? I'm thinking that this might be my problem, it's either not moving enough or it's moving too much...
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2012, 10:08 PM
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Anyone

Can anyone tell me how far the rod in the booster should travel when the brake peadl is pressed?
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:27 AM
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Normal travel varies from one master to another. How far your's travels is probably different than others. Most don't travel very far once the brake are bled, but may have 1" or a bit more travel when bench bled or before the system is firmed up.
When you bench bled the master did you get flow from the front and rear ports? If you did then the master is good.
If the master bled out good, then I'd question the proportional valve, and whether it is creating a bleeding issue. Sometimes you have to bleed the fronts first because the master is a dual and may be stopping the travel once the rear is bled and firm. I had the same issue with the master on my Austin gasser. It would allow me to bleed the rears, but then the master was firm and would not travel to allow front bleeding.
I ended up putting a vacuum pump on each wheel and vacuum bled all 4 wheels, then the system was fine.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:43 PM
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I appreciate the help, I took the master off and took it to NAPA to see if I could match it up and get a replacement but it appears to be an aftermarket master which doesn`t seem to match other GM or Ford masters. Is there a real difference in how much fluid different masters put out or am I going to be okay if I can find a master that matches up physically.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:08 PM
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The differences aren't enough to not work. I'm running a '96 Subaru Legacy master that's operating GM metric discs and drums. I'm sure the Subaru brake are quite different, but it works great. I did add a proportioning valve at the rear brakes.
Just find a master and booster that is readily available and whichever you prefer, Ford or Chevy. You may want to take your's to a wrecking yard and compare the physical size to master/boosters until you find one that looks close, then go get a new setup at the parts store once you know a make, model, and year. That's how I ended up with the Subaru setup, but I took it off the car along with pedal assembly, and got master, booster, and pedal assembly for $50 total.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:56 PM
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Thanks

Now that I know that , I should be able to find something that will work, man these resto's keep you thinking all the time, thinking and spending money but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel so I'm starting to get excited about getting it completed.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2012, 02:48 AM
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This is the most commonly used master cylinder sold with most aftermarket booster combos,check out the picture http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Cylin...#ht_2118wt_948 For cars that are a pain to bleed this is a real lifesaver http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html This unit works so good when I did a complete brake job and dual master upgrade on my '54 Ford it was over 100+ outside and since I had a few PBR's to quench my thirst I forgot to bench bleed the master,so I hooked it up anyway and within 10 minutes total the system was all bled out and working great.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2012, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
This is the most commonly used master cylinder sold with most aftermarket booster combos,check out the picture http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Cylin...#ht_2118wt_948 For cars that are a pain to bleed this is a real lifesaver http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html This unit works so good when I did a complete brake job and dual master upgrade on my '54 Ford it was over 100+ outside and since I had a few PBR's to quench my thirst I forgot to bench bleed the master,so I hooked it up anyway and within 10 minutes total the system was all bled out and working great.

I think you're right! I see that master and the smaller Corvette booster on a lot of cars!
I have this HF vacuum bleeder, and I like it because it's simple. The pneumatic looks like it would be even easier using a air compressor to pull fluid through!
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2012, 04:40 PM
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Here's What I'm Doing

I did some research and figured my master to be a knockoff of the early to mid 70's corvettes. Went to NAPA and they are bringing one in from Edmonton, it should be here next Tuesday. It will cost me about $50, .....I've been *(&^ing around with the old one for eternity for $50....sheeesh. As well , I've ordered that pneumatic bleeder so I don't have to ask my wife to come out and help me do it again. I also like the idea that I can have a few PBR's while I'm doing it as well...Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted ..
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