Brake Booster Bracket - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2012, 02:48 PM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Brake Booster Bracket

Hey all. 75 Monte Carlo. Replacing the brake booster and resivoir. Tore it all down today and realized that there is a bracket between the booster and the firewall. I'm seeing on Summit Racing there's a bunch and nothing specific for the 75 Monte though. You can see in the attached pics that the bolt pattern on the firewall is close together on the one side than the other. The new booster is a 9". Looking at THESE but seems like the holes aren't even close. Any ideas? Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2012-05-13_13-52-45_749.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	1.52 MB
ID:	65358   Click image for larger version

Name:	2012-05-13_13-52-51_439.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	1.86 MB
ID:	65359  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2012, 05:12 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
I don't know if you looked over all the brackets, but there's quite a few to choose from.

Depending on the booster you want to use, the original bracket might work once it's removed from the old booster.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2012, 05:18 PM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I don't know if you looked over all the brackets, but there's quite a few to choose from.

Depending on the booster you want to use, the original bracket might work once it's removed from the old booster.
I was going through that same list and they're all close, but all different at the same time. The booster I have has the 4 studs in the same position as the stock on, but just need that adapter to have the right pattern on the firewall. I tried to get the stock one off, with no luck though. Is there a trick? It's the original booster that I pulled off, and everything is rusted into one piece.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2012, 06:30 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by david-b
I was going through that same list and they're all close, but all different at the same time. The booster I have has the 4 studs in the same position as the stock on, but just need that adapter to have the right pattern on the firewall. I tried to get the stock one off, with no luck though. Is there a trick? It's the original booster that I pulled off, and everything is rusted into one piece.
You might have to separate the vacuum chamber to access the inside back half of the booster to see what the bracket is held on with if there's no obvious fasteners seen on the outside. I have never done this- so I'm shooting from the hip here.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:34 PM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
You might have to separate the vacuum chamber to access the inside back half of the booster to see what the bracket is held on with if there's no obvious fasteners seen on the outside. I have never done this- so I'm shooting from the hip here.
I had tried to. It looks like the front of the booster is supposed to rotate and then slide right out, but could not for the life of me get it to budge. So I tried taking a grinder to the 'lips' of what seems to be holding the 2 together. Sadly, even after doing that, and then pounding on it... had no luck.

I emailed Summit Racing with the same question and pics, see if they know exactly which one I need. They all look off!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2012, 02:12 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by david-b
I had tried to. It looks like the front of the booster is supposed to rotate and then slide right out, but could not for the life of me get it to budge. So I tried taking a grinder to the 'lips' of what seems to be holding the 2 together. Sadly, even after doing that, and then pounding on it... had no luck.

I emailed Summit Racing with the same question and pics, see if they know exactly which one I need. They all look off!
There is a pretty strong spring inside that will tend to keep the two halves locked together, I believe they use a fixture/clamp tool to hold it together when dis- and re-assembling them. You might want to do a search for info on disassembling it if you haven't already- what you don't want is to be hit w/the spring or booster case as it comes apart.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2012, 06:54 AM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
There is a pretty strong spring inside that will tend to keep the two halves locked together, I believe they use a fixture/clamp tool to hold it together when dis- and re-assembling them. You might want to do a search for info on disassembling it if you haven't already- what you don't want is to be hit w/the spring or booster case as it comes apart.
Buying a new bracket will just be better and easier in my book. Brackets are about $20 on average so no big deal. I need to get one ordered today... have a cruise night on Friday. Would like to have brakes for it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2012, 09:14 PM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just an update and a question to follow. So I bought a bracket from Summit for $20. It was close, but so far. When mounted, the boosters arm going to the brake pedal was riding on the firewall, so it wasn't working. Basically was pushing it up to high.

What I ended up doing was moved the bracket down on the studs so it was sitting lower, on the bottom 3 studs. I had to cut the bracket so it wasn't resting awkwardly on a bump on the firewall by removing the lower bolt hole. Pic is attached, before it was finished sanding and painted. Long story short... everything matches up great (minus 1 bolt not there).

Now the question... I've never really worked with brakes before. When I was pulling the resovoir and booster, I disconnected the lines from it and tried to keep as much fluid in them as possible. When connected the new one up, I filled with fluid and worked the brake pedal. Bubbles came out and eventually stopped. However, with the car on and off, the pedal is soft and doesn't close. Do I need to bleed the lines at the calipers?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2012-05-17_19-12-48_975.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	822.7 KB
ID:	65440   Click image for larger version

Name:	2012-05-17_19-13-13_125.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	1.22 MB
ID:	65441  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 09:21 AM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,611
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 259 Times in 226 Posts
Did you bench bleed the brake master before installing it? If you did, then you can often avoid bleeding the whole system, but if your rakes are "soft" then you need to not only bleed the calipers, but the whole system now.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 09:28 AM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Did you bench bleed the brake master before installing it? If you did, then you can often avoid bleeding the whole system, but if your brakes are "soft" then you need to not only bleed the calipers, but the whole system now.
I'm going to assume I didn't considering I have no idea what bench bleeding is. Damnit. For future reference, got a link to how to do that?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 10:30 AM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,611
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 259 Times in 226 Posts
Here's a link I just Googled:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit...ench-bleed.htm

You usually get the bench bleed fittings and hoses with a new master, but seems they've gone cheap now and don't provide them. Most any parts store will have them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 11:12 AM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the link. Mine didn't come with any kind of bleeder kit. That would have been easier if it did.

My buddy has a vacuum bleeder and we're going to do them all tonight.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 01:00 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,611
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 259 Times in 226 Posts
Should be fine after that. No reason to bench bleed it now that it's been in place on the car. Just be sure to bleed it enough to get any air pockets that are near the master all the way out the end of the system.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2012, 09:32 AM
david-b's Avatar
Dave is THAT guy
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Should be fine after that. No reason to bench bleed it now that it's been in place on the car. Just be sure to bleed it enough to get any air pockets that are near the master all the way out the end of the system.
So yesterday we bled the brakes with really no problems. All new fluid in the lines, all nice and clear. Taking it for a drive, the brakes are there, but not where they were. I don't know if smaller booster is supposed to affect it this much. The car does stop, but really have to push super hard and even then it's not slamming on the brakes like it used to. Any ideas on this? And I'm 100% sure no bubbles in the lines. 3 big bottles of brake fluid and with a vac pump... was done right.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2012, 07:14 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Air in the brake system causes a spongy pedal because air compresses where brake fluid doesn't. If the pedal is hard and takes a lot of effort, you might need more assist. Or the pedal ratio can be changed or use a smaller master cylinder bore. That will decrease effort but increase pedal travel. It's a balancing act.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Tags
booster, brake

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
brake caliper bracket jaslong Suspension - Brakes - Steering 9 11-15-2008 07:22 PM
Emergency brake bracket on T-56 trans? staleg Transmission - Rearend 0 08-11-2008 02:22 AM
any body know?versalle brake bracket ? barnym17 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 6 03-29-2008 08:52 AM
Need Help with a brake booster and pedals bracket on firewall! streetrodder31 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 13 02-26-2007 11:55 AM
brake bracket bigvofnash Suspension - Brakes - Steering 0 09-12-2003 08:36 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.