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Old 07-25-2014, 04:21 PM
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Brake booster purchase / which one ??

Are all the aftermarket brake boosters and master cyl. ? brake pedal assemblies ,. all the same ? I was told all are manufactured overseas .
Looking to install one on my 40 chevy Truck .
Thanks
Larry

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Old 07-25-2014, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by old trucke View Post
Are all the aftermarket brake boosters and master cyl. ? brake pedal assemblies ,. all the same ? I was told all are manufactured overseas. Looking to install one on my 40 chevy Truck. Thanks. Larry
No, not all the same. What brakes are on the truck? What master cylinder?
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Old 07-25-2014, 05:08 PM
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Booster brake?

All Gm camaro70s brake rear drum, front is disc brake
Thanks larry
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Old 07-25-2014, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by old trucke View Post
All Gm camaro70s brake rear drum, front is disc brake. Thanks larry
OK, how about adapting a Camaro booster/master cylinder/pedal assembly from a boneyard?
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:35 PM
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Booster

No room , Want to mount brake booster and master cyl.under floor ,
Larry
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:40 PM
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Use a booster from a Fox Mustang with a late 90s F150 master cylinder. It will match up to the Camaro brakes, and will fit under the floor.
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Old 07-26-2014, 05:53 AM
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Booster

I want to use an aftermarket booster guys . I originally asked for info on the after market unit..
Larry
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Old 07-26-2014, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by old trucke View Post
I want to use an aftermarket booster guys . I originally asked for info on the after market unit..
Larry
ok.. I understand what you asked for,, but just, rear this..
oem parts.. even replacements.. will be better in the LONG run.. as you can call up any parts store in anytown USA and get the booster if it ever fails, and in the case of the parts listed as a choice above,, an f-150 master will always be an easy find..

now, there is nothing wrong with going with a aftermarket kit from a vendor that supplies the rodding hobby.. but they are not going to (99.99% of the time) tell you what the parts originally where sourced from.. this causes you to have to call them and buy the replacement from them.. and that's all well and good,, if the company is still open when you need that replacement part.. if you are hell bent on using an aftermarket kit.. I'd call stainless steel brakes
SSBC Performance Brake Systems

they've been around a long time.. there are others...
the hemmings site has a nice resource guide.. for venders..

good luck with whatever you choose..
you didn't go with willwood or baer brakes front and rear.. you have oem type.. and there is something to be said for being able to get the part when you need it.. over being cornered into calling JUST the vender..
pick your poison..
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Old 07-26-2014, 03:28 PM
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All the aftermarket boosters I have used were from off shore. Most of them China. I have used 20 or so from different vendors.

The Mustang booster is an 8" dual diaphragm booster and bolts to the same bracket as the aftermarket boosters.

The F150 master cylinder will also bolt to the aftermarket boosters, has a 1" bore, can be fitted with a remote fill, and comes with a 10 psi residual valve for the rear brakes.

Like he said, choose your poison.
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:09 AM
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Booster

Thanks for the input guys

I have picked up that they some of the vendors mention corvette master cyl. in there specs . Is that used because of the bore size ??.,
Larry
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old trucke View Post
Thanks for the input guys

I have picked up that they some of the vendors mention corvette master cyl. in there specs . Is that used because of the bore size ??.,
Larry
Not sure about why Larry, my best bet would be that it just turned out that way because most of the aftermarket suppliers found that the Corvette unit would work well in a variety of applications, so they standardized on it. Self-builders saw that the professional shops were using the Corvette piece, so followed along. For most builds, a 7/8" or 1" diameter master would be called for. The larger the bore, the harder it will be to apply the brakes and the stroke will be shorter. Smaller bores will make leg effort easier, but will require a longer stroke to move the same amount of fluid.

As far as room under the floor, I would be thinking about using two smaller diameter cans in tandem. Two 7" units have been popular in the past. I've been out of building cars for the last several years, so I may not be up on the latest and greatest pieces to use, but judicious computer surfing will be your friend in this case.

To prevent having to rely on a vacuum pump to supply vacuum for your can(s), plan your motor build so that you can use a cam that will allow good vacuum at idle. I don't care who says what, power brakes need 20 inches of vacuum to operate properly. The guy who tells you that his brakes work at optimum with 14" of vacuum is probably telling you what he wishes, not what IS.

If your plan calls for a lumpy cam, perhaps you should be thinking about hydro-boost brakes instead of a conventional vacuum boost system. Just thinkin' out loud here Larry.

Last edited by techinspector1; 07-27-2014 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 07-27-2014, 03:18 PM
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booster

Not sure about why Larry, my best bet would be that it just turned out that way because most of the aftermarket suppliers found that the Corvette unit would work well in a variety of applications, so they standardized on it. Self-builders saw that the professional shops were using the Corvette piece, so followed along. For most builds, a 7/8" or 1" diameter master would be called for. The larger the bore, the harder it will be to apply the brakes and the stroke will be shorter. Smaller bores will make leg effort easier, but will require a longer stroke to move the same amount of fluid.

As far as room under the floor, I would be thinking about using two smaller diameter cans in tandem. Two 7" units have been popular in the past. I've been out of building cars for the last several years, so I may not be up on the latest and greatest pieces to use, but judicious computer surfing will be your friend in this case.

To prevent having to rely on a vacuum pump to supply vacuum for your can(s), plan your motor build so that you can use a cam that will allow good vacuum at idle. I don't care who says what, power brakes need 20 inches of vacuum to operate properly. The guy who tells you that his brakes work at optimum with 14" of vacuum is probably telling you what he wishes, not what IS.

If your plan calls for a lumpy cam, perhaps you should be thinking about hydro-boost brakes instead of a conventional vacuum boost system. Just thinkin' out loud here Larry.

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Last edited by techinspector1; Today at 03:26 PM.
Not going to much HP. 300 range . gonna be a driver . 20 inches of vacuum yes, log that one away, The two 7" cans, not sure about that
Ones listed are single and dual diapfram . More vaccumn from two ?
Not disputing what your saidjust trying to go the right route,Thanks TECH ,
Larry
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:03 PM
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Not sure about why Larry, my best bet would be that it just turned out that way because most of the aftermarket suppliers found that the Corvette unit would work well in a variety of applications, so they standardized on it. Self-builders saw that the professional shops were using the Corvette piece, so followed along. For most builds, a 7/8" or 1" diameter master would be called for. The larger the bore, the harder it will be to apply the brakes and the stroke will be shorter. Smaller bores will make leg effort easier, but will require a longer stroke to move the same amount of fluid.

As far as room under the floor, I would be thinking about using two smaller diameter cans in tandem. Two 7" units have been popular in the past. I've been out of building cars for the last several years, so I may not be up on the latest and greatest pieces to use, but judicious computer surfing will be your friend in this case.

To prevent having to rely on a vacuum pump to supply vacuum for your can(s), plan your motor build so that you can use a cam that will allow good vacuum at idle. I don't care who says what, power brakes need 20 inches of vacuum to operate properly. The guy who tells you that his brakes work at optimum with 14" of vacuum is probably telling you what he wishes, not what IS.

If your plan calls for a lumpy cam, perhaps you should be thinking about hydro-boost brakes instead of a conventional vacuum boost system. Just thinkin' out loud here Larry.
many cars in the last 25-30 years came factory with a vacuum pump..
so the worry about vacuum from engine is only a junkyard crawl away..
ir go hydraboost and toss the booster..
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
many cars in the last 25-30 years came factory with a vacuum pump..
so the worry about vacuum from engine is only a junkyard crawl away..
ir go hydraboost and toss the booster..
I would too.
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:07 PM
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The two 7" cans, not sure about that
Ones listed are single and dual diapfram . More vaccumn from two ?
Not disputing what your saidjust trying to go the right route,Thanks TECH ,
Larry
. The single diaphragm are thin and large diameter and prolly don't fit in your app. space... dual can/dual diaphragm are basically two smaller diameter boosters in series to get the diameter smaller (but unit longer) for same brake pressure as big ones to fit in tight diameter spaces... under the floor... or to clear tall valve covers... or to clear big block engines... or to clear crossram intake manifold carburetors...

. Like the guys said, a rebuilt OEM unit prolly never left the USA... readily available again in the future... dependable...
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