[boris_thespider]

Can someone tell me the proper way to tighten up a banjo bolt? I'm using the copper washers on either side of the brake line. If I snug it up... it leaks. If I keep snugging a little at a time... it leaks. If I loosen and snug, loosen and snug... it leaks. If I tighten it really tight... it leaks. I've gone through 4 sets of copper crush washers I've replaced the brake line with the same results. I'm beginning to think it's the caliper... but the caliper is fairly new. Are there any tricks to get this thing working properly? It's driving me CRAZY!

[jon72vega]

Originally Posted by boris_thespider

I'm beginning to think it's the caliper... but the caliper is fairly new.

Do you mean brand new, or new as in a rebuilt?
Check the sealing surface on the caliper where the banjo bolt attaches.
I had a caliper once that was a factory rebuilt that would not seal at the banjo bolt connection no matter what I did. Kinda like your current situation.
I took it back to the parts store, & the guy right away showed me that part of the seal surface on the caliper had slightly eroded away, and that was worsened by the shot-blast process the rebuild factory used to get the casting cleaned up.
He said that was a common problem on rebuilt calipers.

Jon
http://1972vega.wordpress.com/

[boris_thespider]

I believe the calipers are new... but they could be rebuilt. They came as part of my kit car. Are there any sure fire ways of making sure it's NOT the caliper before I replace it

[T-bucket23]

Most likely the replacement copper washers are junk. The ones that come with replacement calipers are very problematic.
We always use the original ones. You may want to check to be sure all surfaces are clean. If they are try a set of copper washers from the dealer.

[Rickracer]

Originally Posted by T-bucket23

Most likely the replacement copper washers are junk...We always use the original ones....

Ditto, I always save all the OEM copper washers that come into my possession, the aftermarket replacement ones are usually garbage. You can put a socket that fits on top of the banjo bolt and tap on it to help seat the washer without over-tightening the banjo bolt, but chances are you'd be better off just to go get some new, or even used OEM washers.

[boris_thespider]

Thanks for the OEM washer info. I had no idea there was a difference.

[stimpy]

most of the oem washers are annealed , the overseas cheapies are work hardened from stamping , have to anneal them by heating with a torch and dropping them in to water ( it the reverse of hardening steel )

[2vmodular]

are you sure that the banjo bolt & brake caliper are setup to use the same diameter & thread pitch?

it requires a great deal of compression force to create sealing grooves in the copper crush washers. if the banjo bolt starts to slip on the caliper threads, you might not be able to get the parts to lock together properly.

used copper crush washer with grooves cut into it from banjo bolt & caliper threads



banjo bolt with a couple crush washers on it



brake flex hose seal surface for crush washer

[2vmodular]

i've also seen remanufactured calipers supplied with the wrong diameter crush washers too. if the crush washer isn't wide enough to catch a couple grooves on the flex hose, banjo bolt & caliper seal surfaces, you'll get leaks.

Originally Posted by stimpy

most of the oem washers are annealed , the overseas cheapies are work hardened from stamping , have to anneal them by heating with a torch and dropping them in to water ( it the reverse of hardening steel )